The back with 200x200 Vesa mounting points, recessed speakon pocket and first box is glued together. It is far from finished, now there will be trimming, roundover routing, filling, sanding, etc. Horn color will be selected (most probably ivory white), the box will be black Warnex.
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Enough of sanding and paint layers on this one, it is now ready for rolling on Warnex to the sides and back. The second one got its first layer of anthracite matte paint, two more to go with fixing minor stuff with automotive two part polyester putty.
Both will get their Warnex coat at the same time, then I will sand the access doors to fit and coat them with Warnex, too. I hope to get the Warnex on the boxes next weekend and install the drivers a weel later. Cannot wait to hear these in action!
Both will get their Warnex coat at the same time, then I will sand the access doors to fit and coat them with Warnex, too. I hope to get the Warnex on the boxes next weekend and install the drivers a weel later. Cannot wait to hear these in action!
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My first time with Warnex and a roller. It went quite well. The picture does not show it really - it does not look perfect, but very acceptable🙂 When it is dry, I will have to fit the hatches, which are not painted yet - I will most probably need to cut new ones slightly smaller so that they have straight edges and go inside smoothly. I am thinking about incorporating handles into the hatches.
Tomorrow, the drivers will be installed for some first quick measurements.
Tomorrow, the drivers will be installed for some first quick measurements.
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It dries really fast, I already see some spots that are not really well done, so these will need a second layer...
Looking forward to seeing the measurements with the soveriegn drivers - I have a pair of faital fe10's to try and think the 8's you are using would be an easier fit in the cab.
Rob.
Rob.
First (as usual, quick and dirty, in room) measurements with Open Sound Meter. Smoothed with a FDW. The HF curve pretty matches the DAS-M50 datasheet curve and the driver plays pretty low. The crossover can be anywhere between 700 - 1000 Hz easily (for home use). The Sovereigns behave quite nicely on the top end, the cone volume fillers seem to work. The dip at the low end and the roll off should be ignored, that is from the missing hatches. By the way, I just planed the old hatches a bit and they sort of fit. Not as good looking, but that can be ignored🙂 Next time, I will make the hatches with a larger gap and from slightly thinner material, they now stick out a bit. The first order crossover works really well, the phase is nice and smooth (not shown, you have to trust me on that 🙂 ), a little EQ is needed. I think this will work well with a passive first order series crossover and a bit of EQ in DSP, so I can use it with my SET amp.
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Rolling on Warnex is so satisfying. It is quick and instantly looks good. This time I tried one layer of base paint, sligth sanding and Warnex over it, using a microfiber roller. This is from now on my way of finishing loudspeakers. Even though Warnex is relatively expensive, one layer on base paint looks great and without any more sanding! I have spent literally 10 times or more time on trying to get a nice finish on the inside of the horn and spent like 4 - 6 times more for spray can paint, spray putty and filler. And it still does not look perfect, just good enough. The inside angles would be a bit challenging though. And it is dry to touch in less than 30 minutes.
The hatches are drying now, I am looking forward to installing them and making the next tuning session, so that these can be put to service.
The second picture is to compare the size with my three way, 2x12" green horn.
The hatches are drying now, I am looking forward to installing them and making the next tuning session, so that these can be put to service.
The second picture is to compare the size with my three way, 2x12" green horn.
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I installed damping from an old matress cover (cloth backed with fluffy polyester) and the hatches. I get solid output down to almost 60 Hz. There is a midrange bump at the LF that needs to be EQ'd out. I was not very happy with the sound when testing with a t.amp e4-130, but with Extron XPA1002, it sounds brilliant even with not so much tuned in crossover and EQ. I need to set up the second channel tomorrow. When the weather permits (hopefully this week), I will measure it outside to improve the DSP settings. I am super happy with this project.
I will also try to make an external passive crossover to run them with my 300B SET amp, but that will be a bit of a challenge due to the EQ needed - some of it can be left to the DSP, but at least around the crossover, there is a need for one or two notch filters on the lows, maybe one also on the HF. 12 dB/oct LR works well in the DSP, so that is what will be in the passive version as well.
I will also try to make an external passive crossover to run them with my 300B SET amp, but that will be a bit of a challenge due to the EQ needed - some of it can be left to the DSP, but at least around the crossover, there is a need for one or two notch filters on the lows, maybe one also on the HF. 12 dB/oct LR works well in the DSP, so that is what will be in the passive version as well.
Some measurements and DSP tuning. I think I still do not understand how to do this properly.
Magnitude looks quite good.
Total phase not really bad. The phase matching is only at the crossover point...that is not good I think.
Impulse response inverted. My bad🙂
Step response not good (scale is +- 5 ms).
Open sound meter is a great tool, I definitely need to try to understand how to use it better. The two channel (almost) real time tuning is priceless and the pink noise is not as annoying as log chirps.
I used a basic DSP 2nd order LR and tuned the delay and responses to get a deep reverse notch and then inverted phase on the tweeter. I should have looked better on the other screens when tuning the crossover, since I would have realized I have the tweeter polarity wrong (at least that is what I think).
Now to my questions - to get the crossover right, how should the peaks be aligned (using IIR) - to the peak and both same polarity? Including any LP/HP filter that is to be used? Should I use delays to match the peak positions at the point of measurement? No matter what EQ or preset internal LP/HP I use, I should use some acoustic target curve - which one would be recommended for a two way MEH? Up to 4th order Bessel, Butterworth or LR are available together with 7 PEQs for each band.
The measurements were taken too close to the mouth to suppress the reflections in the room, which is not the most correct way, but I hope I can practice my DSP tuning skills like that and have the final crossover right for the first time when I take them out.
Magnitude looks quite good.
Total phase not really bad. The phase matching is only at the crossover point...that is not good I think.
Impulse response inverted. My bad🙂
Step response not good (scale is +- 5 ms).
Open sound meter is a great tool, I definitely need to try to understand how to use it better. The two channel (almost) real time tuning is priceless and the pink noise is not as annoying as log chirps.
I used a basic DSP 2nd order LR and tuned the delay and responses to get a deep reverse notch and then inverted phase on the tweeter. I should have looked better on the other screens when tuning the crossover, since I would have realized I have the tweeter polarity wrong (at least that is what I think).
Now to my questions - to get the crossover right, how should the peaks be aligned (using IIR) - to the peak and both same polarity? Including any LP/HP filter that is to be used? Should I use delays to match the peak positions at the point of measurement? No matter what EQ or preset internal LP/HP I use, I should use some acoustic target curve - which one would be recommended for a two way MEH? Up to 4th order Bessel, Butterworth or LR are available together with 7 PEQs for each band.
The measurements were taken too close to the mouth to suppress the reflections in the room, which is not the most correct way, but I hope I can practice my DSP tuning skills like that and have the final crossover right for the first time when I take them out.
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After a bit more tuning and adding a 12 dB low shelf bass boost, these were finally put to service. They will be tuned in place when I am in the mood again. I am very happy with the result - even though I now see I must have used a wrong spray can for the last layer on one of them 😤
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Since I have finished these, I became very passive in continuing any audio projects. For the room I have, these are almost perfect (sealed, bass boosted, no sub). The "Big Green" would simply not fit. It is kind of hard to compare since the BG is still only a single one. I would say when equalized, both are pretty similar until very high SPL is needed.