And your question is?
This is the board to get: TPA3116 2.1 12-24V 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital Audio Super Bass Speaker 767775830347 | eBay
(it is US $16.66 now, prices were about $20)
Good sound, variable low pass for the subwoofer, switchable high pass for the tops. (I have 2 of them)
I read that the bluetooth version is also great.
// an old laptop power adapter is fine to power it.
This is the board to get: TPA3116 2.1 12-24V 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital Audio Super Bass Speaker 767775830347 | eBay
(it is US $16.66 now, prices were about $20)
Good sound, variable low pass for the subwoofer, switchable high pass for the tops. (I have 2 of them)
I read that the bluetooth version is also great.
// an old laptop power adapter is fine to power it.
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This was essentially what I was asking. If the cheap Chinese boards are any good. I do like this one, and I will order it. But because it will take a long time to get here I was thinking of testing my setup first with this board(found it at nearby store) Amplifier Board TPA3116D2 50Wx2+100W 2.1 Channel Digital Subwoofer Power X1B4 | eBay
They look like they are essentially the same but without tone controls and crossover.
They look like they are essentially the same but without tone controls and crossover.
As far as i remember correctly, this board is discussed in TPA3116D2 Amp and it was not good; it had some problems but I can't remember what.
Most Chinese 2.1 boards are faulty constructions, that don´t have working x-over for the high pass, which is a huge problem, because, if you use a passive one, the amp will blow up.
This "use a capacitive load and the amp blow´s" is a very usual experience here, because most need a resistive load. So if you have a speaker and can measure no resistor value, it is a d-amp killer.
If you run the small speakers full range, you loose most benefit of the 2.1 configuration. The module mentioned by THINK is the first which seems to have a high pass, but I have not tested it by my self.
This "use a capacitive load and the amp blow´s" is a very usual experience here, because most need a resistive load. So if you have a speaker and can measure no resistor value, it is a d-amp killer.
If you run the small speakers full range, you loose most benefit of the 2.1 configuration. The module mentioned by THINK is the first which seems to have a high pass, but I have not tested it by my self.
So this 2.1 amps only have a low pass for the sub and the speakers get the full spectrum of the signal instead of only the mid-highs? Why is this a problem? They will play the lows but really bad, that's why you have the sub. Why if you make a high pass on the output of the amp? I wanted to use two full range PS95, they only get down to 110 hz, so the problem should be even less. Should I just add like a single cap before the full range drivers to get rid of the lows?
No, most Chinese 2.1 amps give full range signal to the tops and with this board you can switch the highpass on and off and is at about 200hz.
Advantage of not sending bass signal to the tops is that the mids and highs are cleaner and can play a lot louder as the sub takes care of the lows.
Other advantage is that you only have 1 source for the bass and thus will sound much tighter/cleaner.
Advantage of not sending bass signal to the tops is that the mids and highs are cleaner and can play a lot louder as the sub takes care of the lows.
Other advantage is that you only have 1 source for the bass and thus will sound much tighter/cleaner.
I thought that this subs knob only controlled where the crossover point of the sub. So if you turn it to 200hz the sub would play all the way up to 200hz but the tops would always play the full spectrum.
So with this board, the x-over controls the tops or the sub or both. I mean what frequencies are going to be going to the sub and what is going to go to the tops if I set the knob at let's say 150?
True if you set the highpass switch off, then the tops get a full-range signal.
The low-pass for the sub is variable from about 50 to 250hz, the high-pass for the tops is fixed at about 200hz and on/off switchable.
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OH that's what that little black switch between the volume knobs is for. To switch on and off the high pass, all right. Do you know on the other boards which they don't have a x-over knob, what signal does the sub gets? I guess the tops get full spectrum but the sub does it have its own fixed low pass at a specific frequency that tyou can't control?
The idea of 2.1 in full consequence is, to give no low frequency at the 2 stereo speakers woofer, making them midd range drivers. If you ignore this and give them the full spectrum, they will not produce the audible low sound you desire. Instead, the lower the frequency the more air will be moved by high travel of the cone and heat up the voice coil. This will distort the sound and with high volume, destroy the speaker.
This is why 2.1 without high pass is so useless.
A good 2.1 system can play much louder and more relaxed than the 2.0 speakers allone.
If you are able to understand the mentioned board with the switchable high pass, you sure can change capacitors to set another frequency. Smaller gives higher, larger lower x-over. Nothing else do many analog active cross overs with switchable frequency.
Many of the 2.1 boards offered have no high pass and/or missdesigned low pass, which, for example, change the x-over frequency when adjusting volume of the sub-chanel.
This is the first board that seems to work.
This is why 2.1 without high pass is so useless.
A good 2.1 system can play much louder and more relaxed than the 2.0 speakers allone.
If you are able to understand the mentioned board with the switchable high pass, you sure can change capacitors to set another frequency. Smaller gives higher, larger lower x-over. Nothing else do many analog active cross overs with switchable frequency.
Many of the 2.1 boards offered have no high pass and/or missdesigned low pass, which, for example, change the x-over frequency when adjusting volume of the sub-chanel.
This is the first board that seems to work.
How about this board?
AIYIMA Assembled HIFI digital power amplifier TPA3116D2 2.1 high power board 12 24V subwoofer bass board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
It seems to be similar board but an additional set of input on the side (for bluetooth and ?). It seems like some board with Bluetooth is based on this one also.
And the English spelling on the back is correct compared to the one on ebay you posted
Update: This is one with bluetooth 5.0, is this better deal?
GHXAMP TPA3116 2.1 Subwoofer Bluetooth Amplifier Digital Audio Board 50W*2+100W Bass AUX For 2.1 Bluetooth 5.0 Speaker DIY NEW-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Never use a board with bluetooth, how does that work?
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How about this board?
AIYIMA Assembled HIFI digital power amplifier TPA3116D2 2.1 high power board 12 24V subwoofer bass board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
It seems to be similar board but an additional set of input on the side (for bluetooth and ?). It seems like some board with Bluetooth is based on this one also.
And the English spelling on the back is correct compared to the one on ebay you posted
Update: This is one with bluetooth 5.0, is this better deal?
GHXAMP TPA3116 2.1 Subwoofer Bluetooth Amplifier Digital Audio Board 50W*2+100W Bass AUX For 2.1 Bluetooth 5.0 Speaker DIY NEW-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Never use a board with bluetooth, how does that work?
I doubt it has 5.0 propably just 4.2. Anyway, I believe that you choose the input (wired/Bluetooth) by pressing the volume knob.
It does say it's updated to 5.0 specifically in the description, though the listing probably reused the old one with 4.2 and earlier as from reviews.
Ordered one, will see what chip it comes in.
Getting a new board to replace a 3-knobs TPA3116D2 I've been using for 3 years but fired after putting it to use with a passive subwoofer and a new 24V MW power supply after an hour, not sure what caused that (could be the capacitors are 25V only?).
Have another TDA7498 board coming to see which one I like.
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Soooo.. does this board ;
TPA3116 2.1 12-24V 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital Audio Super Bass Speaker 767775830347 | eBay
Make ugly turn on and off noises, and generally produce audio sounds that are best described as harsh and shrill.. as did ALL of the 3116 based boards that I experimented with a while back.
Hoping to hear that these have actually improved in the last couple of years.
TPA3116 2.1 12-24V 50W+50W+100W Amplifier Board Digital Audio Super Bass Speaker 767775830347 | eBay
Make ugly turn on and off noises, and generally produce audio sounds that are best described as harsh and shrill.. as did ALL of the 3116 based boards that I experimented with a while back.
Hoping to hear that these have actually improved in the last couple of years.
@Bare; one of my two same boards did develop a pop off sound which I remedied with turning the volume knob left and right on the 'on/off click' point. Normally I only get a pop if I turn it almost off and back on. But none with normal on and off use.
To me these amps sound clean and clear; the warmth you might be missing is the distortion of your old amp.
I was a bit disappointed that the better chip and implementation of TPA3255 EVM board only sounds just a little bit better to me.
With some SMPS power supplies sound is clearly less good, but with most I tried the sound is just as good to me as with batteries. A brand laptop adapters seem to be all good so far.
To me these amps sound clean and clear; the warmth you might be missing is the distortion of your old amp.
I was a bit disappointed that the better chip and implementation of TPA3255 EVM board only sounds just a little bit better to me.
With some SMPS power supplies sound is clearly less good, but with most I tried the sound is just as good to me as with batteries. A brand laptop adapters seem to be all good so far.
those things state 50 watts per channel witch i guess is a little bit optimistic (except if you dont mid high distortion, using 4ohm loads and 24v power supply) is a normal 24v laptop power supply good enough thought? I guess it chould give like 90ish watts.
moreover is pairing it with 10watt rms speakrs (ps95) a bad idea? i dont intend to play at full volume but still i feel like it chould damage them
You will get the 2x50@4Ohm + 1x100@2Ohm <1% THD (clean power)
Just make sure to use low impedance speakers and big enough power supply if you want to get all power out of it. At 24V it can draw about 8A. But that is dependent on speaker load and input levels. I run it with 20V 5A and the 2 subs are earlier at their max then the more efficient tops; so the tops will never draw the maximum power. You will be surprised how loud your little 2.1 setup is going to be.
But realize that doubling power (watts) only give +3dB (minus extra power compression). The difference going from 25W to 50W is just as big as going from 1W to 2W.
ps95 speaker: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-349--dayton-audio-ps95-8-spec-sheet.pdf
10W rms will work fine as you can send them max 25W clean power at 8Ohm and won't send any bass to it.
I use 2x FRS 8 M - 8 Ohm | Visaton per side and added Dayton Audio PTMini-6 Planar Tweeter 6 Ohm to each side to get much better highs; x-over @5Khz.
Just make sure to use low impedance speakers and big enough power supply if you want to get all power out of it. At 24V it can draw about 8A. But that is dependent on speaker load and input levels. I run it with 20V 5A and the 2 subs are earlier at their max then the more efficient tops; so the tops will never draw the maximum power. You will be surprised how loud your little 2.1 setup is going to be.
But realize that doubling power (watts) only give +3dB (minus extra power compression). The difference going from 25W to 50W is just as big as going from 1W to 2W.
ps95 speaker: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-349--dayton-audio-ps95-8-spec-sheet.pdf
10W rms will work fine as you can send them max 25W clean power at 8Ohm and won't send any bass to it.
I use 2x FRS 8 M - 8 Ohm | Visaton per side and added Dayton Audio PTMini-6 Planar Tweeter 6 Ohm to each side to get much better highs; x-over @5Khz.