15" fusion encounter subwoofer
hey everyone i have a fusion encounter sub that was given to me buy a mate i need to know lengths and other measurements for a box DIY project i have done all the audio in my car before so i have experience in that area dont worry there no crappy work done there all neat and how its suppose to be done if anyone can please help me that would be great thnx
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6240/200908021925.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9650/200908021926.jpg
here r some pix
hey everyone i have a fusion encounter sub that was given to me buy a mate i need to know lengths and other measurements for a box DIY project i have done all the audio in my car before so i have experience in that area dont worry there no crappy work done there all neat and how its suppose to be done if anyone can please help me that would be great thnx
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6240/200908021925.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9650/200908021926.jpg
here r some pix
As BP1Fanatic pointed out, Fusion are one of the few manufacturers who publish useful specs, even for their cheap drivers. Watch for typos, though - they mix centimetres and millimetres occasionally, and on their PP range of subs they appear to have transposed Xmax and Xmech values.
The Encounter 15 subs aren't well suited to high quality car audio use, they're more suitable for "boom" work. They need something like a 110 litre 4th order bandpass box to tame them. They need at least 90 litres for a sealed box, if you try to use a smaller box they get very "boomy". But if you have the room, go for a sealed box of 85 to 90 litres.
Note also that although they're rated at 250 watts RMS, any more than about 100 watts in a 90 litre box will drive them past Xmax and they will start to sound distorted.
Now if you want good sound in a 15 to 20 litre box, look at the PP-SW150. About 4x the cost of an EN sub, but you get what you pay for. They also integrate better with typical car cabin gain curves.
The Encounter 15 subs aren't well suited to high quality car audio use, they're more suitable for "boom" work. They need something like a 110 litre 4th order bandpass box to tame them. They need at least 90 litres for a sealed box, if you try to use a smaller box they get very "boomy". But if you have the room, go for a sealed box of 85 to 90 litres.
Note also that although they're rated at 250 watts RMS, any more than about 100 watts in a 90 litre box will drive them past Xmax and they will start to sound distorted.
Now if you want good sound in a 15 to 20 litre box, look at the PP-SW150. About 4x the cost of an EN sub, but you get what you pay for. They also integrate better with typical car cabin gain curves.
BP1Fanatic said:
Ok, thanks!
I assume this is for home HIFI and/or HT, so here's a basic T/S max flat alignment (yellow trace) since the sealed cab variant (green trace) has a rather high F3 of ~40 Hz:
10 ft^3 net Vb
22 Hz Fb
(2) 4" diameter vents 11" long
With its low Xmax it's only rated ~100 W down low, though considering its 23 mm Xmech and some room gain, it can be overdriven somewhat.
This is too big by most folk's standards, so venting the sealed cab to lower F3 a bit seems a reasonable compromise and allows for a slightly higher ~140 W rating down low (red trace):
4.71ft^3 net Vb
23 Hz Fb
(2) 3" diameter vents 13.1" long
Note that since there's no published inductance spec these are flatter than they will be in reality depending on how much it has and of course without measured specs may just be a 'pipe dream'.
I uploaded the WinISD driver file in case anyone wants to view the other graphs/whatever: http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...inisd-pro-files-fusion-encounter-en-sw150.wdr
GM
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