What the reasoning for smaller drivers sounding better? I figured the bigger the driver the lass distortion it would play at the same volume level.
Also anyone have experience with the new Peerless DFM-2544R00-08 1" Compression DFM Driver 8 Ohm?
Peerless DFM-2544R00-08 1" Compression DFM Driver 8 Ohm
Peerless DFM-2544R00-08 1" Compression DFM Driver 8 Ohm
The 15PR400 is far superior sounding than the Emmy. I have used them extensively and they are very clean with really good mids.
You just cant compare the two as far as sound goes!
What about the FaitalPRO 18HP1010 its not that much more expensive, heres a link to it. FaitalPRO 18HP1010 18" Professional Subwoofer 8 Ohm
Here's a way cheaper 18" Dayton Audio PA465S-8 the link is
Dayton Audio PA465S-8 18" Pro Subwoofer 4" VC 8 Ohm
Would the Dayton be that much worse in SQ? Sensitivity is down quiet a bit though.
I'm back to the 18" idea I need to find a 10" midrange then and it will break my budget but that just means Ill by parts not all at once and build as I go.
That 18" fatal though is my favorite so far.
Here's a way cheaper 18" Dayton Audio PA465S-8 the link is
Dayton Audio PA465S-8 18" Pro Subwoofer 4" VC 8 Ohm
Would the Dayton be that much worse in SQ? Sensitivity is down quiet a bit though.
I'm back to the 18" idea I need to find a 10" midrange then and it will break my budget but that just means Ill by parts not all at once and build as I go.
That 18" fatal though is my favorite so far.
I think you might struggle making a good 2way with an 18".
You'd probably have to get a 2" compression driver and a rather large horn.
Great for a 3way though.
You'd probably have to get a 2" compression driver and a rather large horn.
Great for a 3way though.
I like the sound of big drivers in big baffles , yummy
For high frequency they beam and sound poor.
For high frequency they beam and sound poor.
If you go the 3way 18-10-cd route you can always start with a 10" 2way and add the 18 later.
That way you have usable speakers while saving up for the 18.
That way you have usable speakers while saving up for the 18.
Bob, I started a similar thread a few days ago in the full range thread.
Like you I want to build a 2 way with 15" subs. I am going open baffle as I have been using magneplanars and ribbons for 25 years and I can't listen to boxes anymore (box resonances stick out like a sore thumb since I am so unaccustomed to them).
I have been inspired by the layout of the PureAudio Project speakers. Damn easy to make as a diy project.
New ! PAP-Horn1 Trio15 Speakers – PureAudioProject
For woofers, I was considering buying a set of OEM Eminence drivers that PureAudio sells but shipping to Australia makes them expensive. I have found that I can buy FaitalPro 15PR400 from local distributor for a significantly lower price, and as you can see in this thread, many people consider these better then Eminence drivers so its a win win for me. So they are on my shortlist. Beyma woofers are good I am sure but there is no Australian distributor and they are too expensive to import.
I have considered CD. Disadvantage I see is that crossover is going to be around 1k and I prefer to limit the woofer somewhat lower. So I am looking at a full range driver (6 to 8 inch) for the mid/tweeter driver. Still looking at lots of alternatives for this, have you thought about FR drivers or are you committed to CDs?
I already bi-amp my magneplanars panels, with a passive line level crossover at 660Herts to my diy ribbons. So I will keep this for the new system, good thing about my crossover is that I can change it in minutes with a few cheap caps. No need for big inductors or large caps.
Will be interested to see how your design pans out.
Fane Sovereign 12-250TC from ~ 80...120 hz on up and
Faital Pro 15PR400 for everything below ~ 80...120 hz.
Faital Pro 15PR400 for everything below ~ 80...120 hz.
The Fane does seem to go out to 20k which is surprising for a big 12inch FR - but the off axis response looks terrible! How does it sound?
Yes and no. If Qts less than 0.7 then some equalisation will be required. No too hard, especially if you biamp.
Id like to go open baffle but I need low end. The music I listen to has a lot of low end bass.
Tbh I'm not to familiar with CDs, I have built 2 pairs of speakers and they both used Fountek ribbons. Although they sound fantastic I always though they struggled in dynamics same with the woofers and mid range. I figured this is the path to solving the issues. I have heard JBL titanium tweeters before and liked them a lot so I think ill be fine with a Titanium CD. I also like beryllium tweeters better but to expensive.
I do plan on crossing an 18 lower then 250 hz.
Tbh I'm not to familiar with CDs, I have built 2 pairs of speakers and they both used Fountek ribbons. Although they sound fantastic I always though they struggled in dynamics same with the woofers and mid range. I figured this is the path to solving the issues. I have heard JBL titanium tweeters before and liked them a lot so I think ill be fine with a Titanium CD. I also like beryllium tweeters better but to expensive.
I do plan on crossing an 18 lower then 250 hz.
Very good, pleasant smooth natural paper sound.
Also lots of detail and baffling highs for a 12 inch.
I use it with a "waveguide" and "phase-plug" to even out response and increase high freq dispersion.
xo 110-130hz.
I don't think that there is a 'Like' Button on this forum. So I will just have to say it.
Like!!
Fane 12" FR
Did you cut out the dustcap and install waveguide yourself? How did you make the waveguide?
Regards
And of course there is no dealer in Australia 😡
Did you cut out the dustcap and install waveguide yourself? How did you make the waveguide?
Regards
Quick and dirty sketch.
Doing it like this you will have a wide soundstage, good highs dispersion and won`t need any eq.
I couldn`t do anything to this beautiful sounding driver, so I tried using "external" methods.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.