Hey guys,
I have a sinus live 12 inch subwoofer, an SLW365K, and a hypex DS 4.0 plate amp and I’m trying to put together a sub for hi-fi, basically a 2.1 to go with some monitors I built.
I’m looking for some help coming up with an enclosure, I know some of you are wizards with simulation, and can point me in the right direction.
I found some TSP for the sub from Hobby hi-fi from years ago,
Fs: 31hz.
Qms: 10.4
Qes: 0.36
Qts: 0.35
Vas: 97
Mms: 135g.
Re: 3.2+3.2
Sd: 590cm2
I am assuming ported would yield better efficiency?
Can anyone help me out with coming up with a simulation for a ported box? Or point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance for the help!
I have a sinus live 12 inch subwoofer, an SLW365K, and a hypex DS 4.0 plate amp and I’m trying to put together a sub for hi-fi, basically a 2.1 to go with some monitors I built.
I’m looking for some help coming up with an enclosure, I know some of you are wizards with simulation, and can point me in the right direction.
I found some TSP for the sub from Hobby hi-fi from years ago,
Fs: 31hz.
Qms: 10.4
Qes: 0.36
Qts: 0.35
Vas: 97
Mms: 135g.
Re: 3.2+3.2
Sd: 590cm2
I am assuming ported would yield better efficiency?
Can anyone help me out with coming up with a simulation for a ported box? Or point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance for the help!
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In that case, I would choose the second one. I have experience with sealed subs, and have enjoyed them quite a bit.
With 400 W, I don’t think I would run out of power for this 12 inch sub.
I also understand that sealed enclosures are easier to build.
With 400 W, I don’t think I would run out of power for this 12 inch sub.
I also understand that sealed enclosures are easier to build.
I have read conflicting opinions about QTC. Some have recommended Max flat, 0.707, And many have said that that is not a good choice, and to go for more of a 0.9, or 1.0.
The hypex has an adjustable crossover, and adjustable, bass boost, I’m assuming I can tailor the sound somewhat with those features…
The hypex has an adjustable crossover, and adjustable, bass boost, I’m assuming I can tailor the sound somewhat with those features…
Greets!
T/S max flat vented alignment assuming a small amount of series loss using Qes Vs Qts:
Vented net volume (Vb) (L) = 20*Vas*Qts'^3.3 = 66.62 L
(Ft^3 = (Vb)/~28.31685)
Vented box tuning (Fb) (Hz) = 0.42*Fs*Qts'^-0.96 = 34.72 Hz
F3 (Hz) = Fs*0.28*Qts'^-1.4 = 36.28 Hz
(Qts'): (Qts) + any added series resistance (Rs)
'Critically' damp it for higher SQ.
You're welcome!
Attachments
From another source for T/S parameters...resonant f , 32.89
BL , 8.597
QMS, 7.954, Qes , 0.551, Qts , 0.515 , 90.7 Db, Vas , 119.0662L , X, 0.011 mm , 250W..the two 3.2 ohm voice-coils in SERIES.
With these I get a ported alignment at 266.4 liters worth, a tuned enclosure at 24 hertz, a square port of 102mm inside & 123mm long....a response of -3.03 Db @ 21.52 hertz. great performance!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
BL , 8.597
QMS, 7.954, Qes , 0.551, Qts , 0.515 , 90.7 Db, Vas , 119.0662L , X, 0.011 mm , 250W..the two 3.2 ohm voice-coils in SERIES.
With these I get a ported alignment at 266.4 liters worth, a tuned enclosure at 24 hertz, a square port of 102mm inside & 123mm long....a response of -3.03 Db @ 21.52 hertz. great performance!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
thanks rick! So it looks like this subwoofer is not trash after all. I don’t know much about the brand, I bought it in 2015 because I got a really good deal on it, I think €100 or so I believe they’re mainly made for car audio, but the woofer looks really well-made And seems like I could repurpose it for my use.
So you’re recommending a slot port with 102 mm area, and 123 mm depth?
Are there any drawbacks to a ported enclosure for a hi-fi sub?
So you’re recommending a slot port with 102 mm area, and 123 mm depth?
Are there any drawbacks to a ported enclosure for a hi-fi sub?
Again, sound quality. The big problem with ported enclosures is the stored energy. It's basically a poorly damped Helmholtz resonator, and the energy fed into it by the speaker takes time to decay, blurring bass notes. Listen to Metallica on a sealed and a ported sub to see what I mean. Some of the very large designs are still ringing over 200ms after the signal has stopped...
I always aim for a sealed Qtc of 0.5 for best transient response.
If you simply want as much spl as possible and the highest efficiency, regardless of sound quality, then you should build a ported or tapped horn enclosure.
You're welcome!
No clue without Xmax, but found the same info Rick did for drivers in parallel, which obviously is radically different, though still recommend vent damping for highest SQ.
That said, Rick's vent is 102 mm x 102 mm = 10,404 mm/sq = 104.4 cm^2/Sd = 17.6%, which in turn limits us to ~40 W = ~103 dB/22 Hz/2pi/QL2(critically damped) according to Hornresp, ergo to use all of your power we need some form of TL (i.e. the vent is the subwoofer to get it big/long enough), so way back when 'we' used Sonotube or similar to make them or folded up in a box and with such a high Qt, sealed is preferred for highest SQ.
@mctavish
this is a nice driver with a stable thick air dried paper pulp plus structured cone!
It has more SD cm2 than same size drivers due to a special formed surround.
Good ventilation of all parts
this is a nice driver with a stable thick air dried paper pulp plus structured cone!
It has more SD cm2 than same size drivers due to a special formed surround.
Good ventilation of all parts
Ok…. Well sealed it is then… I don’t anticipate needing all 400 W, it is for a sub for my office to be used either with a pair of SB acoustics Bromos I built, or the AT– SW from Troels, which i should have finished next week…
Transient response and sound quality are important to me, especially above raw output.
Transient response and sound quality are important to me, especially above raw output.
so tell me if this idea is crazy, I could just go ahead and build the enclosure for the ported version, 66 L, try it out, and if not happy with the sound, just stuffed the ports right?
Or am I way off here? I remember reading somewhere that the enclosure volume for a closed subwoofer is not that critical.
Sorry for all the questions, I’m really outside of my comfort zone here, I have almost 0 experience building subwoofers, aside from a few boom boxes for the back of my trunk in the 90s😅
Or am I way off here? I remember reading somewhere that the enclosure volume for a closed subwoofer is not that critical.
Sorry for all the questions, I’m really outside of my comfort zone here, I have almost 0 experience building subwoofers, aside from a few boom boxes for the back of my trunk in the 90s😅
You'd need to determine the enclosure volume for your chosen Q of a sealed enclosure, so it might not be as simple as just blocking the port.
But your statement is correct in that enclosure volume is often less critical for a sealed enclosure.
But your statement is correct in that enclosure volume is often less critical for a sealed enclosure.
Sealed enclosures are usually about half the volume of vented enclosures for the same driver, so this may no work as simple as you think.
Most 12" subs will do well in about a 30 L or 1 cubic ft. box.
And with a vented enclosure you may have an issue with port noise or chuffing. It's very annoying.
So I gave up on building vented enclosures a long time ago.
47 Hz Fb stuffed/sealed, faint line is the 34.72 Hz Fb vented
