I have some 4ohm TD12M I have been meaning to sell if you're interested. I'm in London btw so I guess postage cost would be not so bad. A quick model says they could be tuned in the 30s in that size box, you don't mention how much output you need though. I actually used them with a SEOS12 (and have 1 of those spare to sell as well).I've looked at lot at those AE drivers. Very nice!However, they're too expensive (and I don't even want to think about the additional shipping and customs costs for getting them to Denmark).
The big question is, what output level are you expecting. I found the aurum cantus ac250 very disappointing. It's no subwoofer. Also the midrange just didn't mesh well with horn and compression driver.
I'll put in a vote for the good old Peerless 830669 12" subwoofer. In an 75-85L sealed box it could do what you want. It's a very clean sounding driver. Although Peerless call this a Sub, it actually plays high enough to cross to a tweeter. I've used it at ~800Hz many times and don't think 1K or a little higher would be a problem.
Sad to hear about the Beyma 12BR70. That thing looked promising on paper.
I've been hesitant to embrace Eminence woofers. I've always had mixed results with them and never been totally satisfied. And im fairly certain my 6x10 bass cabinet is all Eminence drivers as well... But that I can do what I please. HiFi has rules :lol:
I'm beginning to think the 2/3 rule applies heavily with speakers. Efficiency, Extension and Expense... The 3 E's of speaker shopping if you will. And all that said, I don't know if there even is a perfect speaker at any price. Finding affordable 12" woofers to do what I want means I'm going to make some sacrifices.
I think deciding on a woofer is easier if you have that one area you're willing to compromise or concede a few points one way or the other.
I've been hesitant to embrace Eminence woofers. I've always had mixed results with them and never been totally satisfied. And im fairly certain my 6x10 bass cabinet is all Eminence drivers as well... But that I can do what I please. HiFi has rules :lol:
I'm beginning to think the 2/3 rule applies heavily with speakers. Efficiency, Extension and Expense... The 3 E's of speaker shopping if you will. And all that said, I don't know if there even is a perfect speaker at any price. Finding affordable 12" woofers to do what I want means I'm going to make some sacrifices.
I think deciding on a woofer is easier if you have that one area you're willing to compromise or concede a few points one way or the other.
From personal experience:
- Beyma 12BR70 : not (very) usable above 450 or so, severe resonances; I was hoping it would work as you are describing but no. Usable in 3 way, good extension;
- Eton 11-581 (very similar to 11-612): has severe peak at around 1.8/2K (as shown in the factory graph, the graph matches actual measurements - unlike Beyma). It might work, but it will be really pushing it, requiring some elaborate notch suppression(s);
- Volt BM2500 (worked with more than 15 years ago, presume the current model acts similarly): this one is very good, intended for 2 way. It was used with Morel MDT33 at about 1K7 or so, and worked well into midrange. This is from memory, don't have any measurements to prove. Built like a tank!
Thanks for the input. Very much appreciated! I will cross out that Beyma and Eton woofer from the list. The Volt seems like a great candidate then. They suggest 40L which will give an f3 of 34Hz.
That's a wide range to ask from a larger woofer. I would also eliminate anything without a demodulation ring/sleeve. Are you going to use dsp/eq?
I've looked at the demodulation ring/sleeve technology, but it seems to be primarily used in PA woofers. Is that the case? Do you mean that I should eliminate woofers from SB Acoustics, Peerless, SEAS, and Visaton since they don't use demodulation rings/sleeves?
I am planing to go active yes, at least to begin with. Then perhaps one day make a passive filter if it makes sense and the drivers can be crossed with a passive design. Not a must though.
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Since you are running the woofer up to its higher limits, some things may matter more than in other cases. Other examples would be the cone material and the surround type.
I've looked at the demodulation ring/sleeve technology, but it seems to be primarily used in PA woofers. Is that the case? Do you mean that I should eliminate woofers from SB Acoustics, Peerless, SEAS, and Visaton since they don't use demodulation rings/sleeves?
I am planing to go active yes, at least to begin with. Then perhaps one day make a passive filter if it makes sense and the drivers can be crossed with a passive design. Not a must though.
It ultimately depends on your listening levels and your tastes on bass output. It won't be a big issue if you're only using a couple millimeters of excursion.
Any decent driver will work if going active as long as it has enough excursion capabilities to handle eq where you need it. You can shape the frequency response to your needs as long as you don't exceed xmax. 14NA100 for example measures pretty well, will work to 1khz, and make more bass with less excursion than smaller drivers in the box size you propose.
I have some 4ohm TD12M I have been meaning to sell if you're interested. I'm in London btw so I guess postage cost would be not so bad. A quick model says they could be tuned in the 30s in that size box, you don't mention how much output you need though. I actually used them with a SEOS12 (and have 1 of those spare to sell as well).
Interesting. I modelled the TD12M and it seems to need quite a large volume if you want to tune low. Eg. 140L and tuned to 35Hz. Anyway, it may still be an option. What are you selling them for? And what about the SEOS12 waveguides? Where are they from, and what's the finish?
Thanks,
FaitalPRO 12HP1060?
I actually have a pair of FaitalPRO 12HP1060 that I used for a different build where I wanted high power PA subwoofers. Any chance those drivers would work in a lower tuned cabinet and crossed higher to a SEOS12?
I actually have a pair of FaitalPRO 12HP1060 that I used for a different build where I wanted high power PA subwoofers. Any chance those drivers would work in a lower tuned cabinet and crossed higher to a SEOS12?
B&C's version of that woofer (12NBX100) is used in Geddes Abbey (12" plus waveguide). Convention would say these are subs but it wouldn't hurt to try. Seems to have good off-axis response.
I forgot about that thread as well, no worries.
I forgot about that thread as well, no worries.
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Quick sim(2ft tuned to 35hz) eq'd flat to 40hz with -3db @ 34hz shows a max broadband spl of 114db at 8.5mm geometric xmax. Plenty of output down low for most music.
It will be real easy to test out a quick prototype since you already have the boxes built.
It will be real easy to test out a quick prototype since you already have the boxes built.
Quick sim(2ft tuned to 35hz) eq'd flat to 40hz with -3db @ 34hz shows a max broadband spl of 114db at 8.5mm geometric xmax. Plenty of output down low for most music.
It will be real easy to test out a quick prototype since you already have the boxes built.
Interesting! I should give it a try. The current boxes are about 1 cu ft and tuned to 45Hz so I need to built something new. Thanks for the sim!
Try the seos on top of your current boxes and see if you can get a good crossover and the eq balance right. You can try blocking off some of your port area to lower the tuning. Stuff a towel or other fabric in it. Do you have measuring equipment?
If all that goes well, then you can build something pretty. Unless you actually like building prototypes....then disregard 😛
If all that goes well, then you can build something pretty. Unless you actually like building prototypes....then disregard 😛
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I've looked at the demodulation ring/sleeve technology, but it seems to be primarily used in PA woofers. Is that the case? Do you mean that I should eliminate woofers from SB Acoustics, Peerless, SEAS, and Visaton since they don't use demodulation rings/sleeves?
The listed SB and Satori drivers both have very well designed demodulation sleeves as do most of the better drivers from Scanspeak, Peerless, Vifa, Seas etc.
They are far from being a prosound feature.
Try the seos on top of your current boxes and see if you can get a good crossover and the eq balance right. You can try blocking off some of your port area to lower the tuning. Stuff a towel or other fabric in it. Do you have measuring equipment?
Sounds like plan 👍 Yes I got a Behringer ECM8000 somewhere and also a miniDSP so all I need is the SEOS + driver and some more spare time 😉 This will probably be a post Xmas and New Years project.
Any recommendations on what driver to use with the SEOS-12?
The listed SB and Satori drivers both have very well designed demodulation sleeves as do most of the better drivers from Scanspeak, Peerless, Vifa, Seas etc.
They are far from being a prosound feature.
Thanks for clarifying! I did some googling of those woofers + “demodulation” and didn’t find much so guess I jumped to conclusions a bit too quickly.
By the way, what’s your thoughts on using a hi-fi woofer such a Seas H1316 CA26RE4X vs a pro woofer such as my Faital Pro 12HP1060 EQ’ed to give me 35hz?
The Seas has half the xmax....so quite a bit less max output.
Since you haven't bought any horns or compression drivers yet, I would be very tempted to go with an 18 Sound XT1464. Pretty cheap at thomann. This will give you the ability to crossover between 600hz and 800hz. This will help you avoid any possible issues on the top of the woofers passband. This will also get all the most important frequencies coming from one source.
A popular compression driver for this is the Faital HF146R. If you want to stick with 18 Sound then their HD1480T would be an excellent choice as well. Slightly more expensive options from them are the ND1460A and ND1480A.
One of the best measuring compression drivers based on third party testing was the ND1480A. It would be your best bet for near top of the line performance before getting into the more expensive ring and beryllium drivers.
Since you haven't bought any horns or compression drivers yet, I would be very tempted to go with an 18 Sound XT1464. Pretty cheap at thomann. This will give you the ability to crossover between 600hz and 800hz. This will help you avoid any possible issues on the top of the woofers passband. This will also get all the most important frequencies coming from one source.
A popular compression driver for this is the Faital HF146R. If you want to stick with 18 Sound then their HD1480T would be an excellent choice as well. Slightly more expensive options from them are the ND1460A and ND1480A.
One of the best measuring compression drivers based on third party testing was the ND1480A. It would be your best bet for near top of the line performance before getting into the more expensive ring and beryllium drivers.
The Seas has half the xmax....so quite a bit less max output.
Since you haven't bought any horns or compression drivers yet, I would be very tempted to go with an 18 Sound XT1464. Pretty cheap at thomann. This will give you the ability to crossover between 600hz and 800hz. This will help you avoid any possible issues on the top of the woofers passband. This will also get all the most important frequencies coming from one source.
A popular compression driver for this is the Faital HF146R. If you want to stick with 18 Sound then their HD1480T would be an excellent choice as well. Slightly more expensive options from them are the ND1460A and ND1480A.
One of the best measuring compression drivers based on third party testing was the ND1480A. It would be your best bet for near top of the line performance before getting into the more expensive ring and beryllium drivers.
What about the Faital HF10AK best sounding Comp I have heard. Airy and smooth with lots of fine detail!
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