After getting my refund from the scam seller.
I have gone with an owon sds210s.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...y0VLgYSyF2hESF-BmFwIoJ3dQLBpf4ToaAoIREALw_wcB
The store also doesnt have any reviews but looks fairly legit and the price isn't silly. Fingers crossed...
New design, only a few months out. Seems comparable to the hantek DSO2D10, but much newer.
No reviews out yet but am I making the bet that the owon is better than the hantek since it appears to be designed to compete with it but is 3 years newer.
I have gone with an owon sds210s.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...y0VLgYSyF2hESF-BmFwIoJ3dQLBpf4ToaAoIREALw_wcB
The store also doesnt have any reviews but looks fairly legit and the price isn't silly. Fingers crossed...
New design, only a few months out. Seems comparable to the hantek DSO2D10, but much newer.
No reviews out yet but am I making the bet that the owon is better than the hantek since it appears to be designed to compete with it but is 3 years newer.
how good are these WiiMs - I just grabbed a pro plus, and now I think I'll grab a mini for the garage!I grabbed a second WiiM Ultra for my bedroom system.
Dan
I don't keep up with the current crop of D-A converters and their implementation, so can't say how the WiiM competes there, but I love it for streaming my Amazon Music.The interface/app. is great and easy to use. It just works and the sound quality is fine for that. In fact, my favorite digital is older units utilizing BB Multi-Bit DACs.
Dan
Dan
Congrats and enjoy.😊 That has happened over the years to a few family members. It’s common is what I got. Now walmart owns the Vizio TV brand that’s why best buy quit selling it.LG 65” C4 OLED. My older Vizio TV had the backlight go bad a week ago. So new and better TV was achieved.
I tired to buy a new christmas tree at Manards Last Saturday. Sold out. Home depot sold out, Lowe’s Sold out. The certain tree I wanted. All delivered June of next year. So my black Friday deal was saving money for now. 😂🤣😂🤷🏻♂️.
Oh yes it does.Does a bottle of Dalwhinnie 15 count?
They were on offer here just before last Chrismas. Just under 30£ for a 1 Liter bottle. Same for Cragganmore 12 and Talisker 10.
Of course bought one of each 😆
Have less than 20% left of the Dalwhinnie 😍
Not exactly Black Friday scores, but I have placed several orders with Amazon and Antique Electronics Supply for some bits and pieces needed to build a new vacuum tube prototyping system. Construction of TubeLab 4 has begun using the base from TubeLab 3. Some of my Amazon orders are scheduled for delivery on Friday, so this could be deemed a Black Friday project.
In early 2004 I made a crude breadboarding system that I called the "TubeLab." It had a crude wood base with a copper screen stapled to it for a ground plane. There were 5 places to drop a PC board that had one or two tube sockets and some Fahnestock clips on it. This was used to design the TSE, 845SE, 300Beast, PowerDrive and a few of my other early creations. The black component in the upper left in picture 4851 is an IXYS10M45 and this is the first ever PowerDrive implementation. Its bigger brother lives on the heatsink behind the 845 tube. This was "TubeLab 1" before I decided to also use the name for the company that started up in 2005. TubeLab 1 was useful but limited in scope. Tubelab 2 was a radical change, which caused more frustration than it saved and was tossed in the trash before being finished.
TubeLab 1 had provisions for a lid that could be closed for experiments that could end badly. I got that idea after setting an OPT on fire when my Radio Shack dummy load blew open when I was squeezing about 150 watts from a pair of sweep tubes on over 700 volts. Unfortunately the lid was designed to fit the 45 tube seen in the early pictures, the 845 and the 6LW6 did not fit, so the lid never got used. I decided to reuse the base from TubeLab 1 to make TubeLab 3, but since there was no lid, I cut the outer rim all down to about 1.5 inches, added a row of connectors across the back for power supply connections, dropped in a piece of plastic pegboard and created several drop in modules for the popular tube pinouts.
TubeLab 3 can be seen here with a fully functioning 80 watt push pull sweep tube amp being tested. This system worked fine and was used until I packed up everything I owned and moved it all 1200 miles. The base of Tubelab 3 is here, but none of the individual modules have been seen since the move. Lots of other stuff disappeared too. I have pulled off lots of amp designs since then by hacking up old boards or laying out prototype boards and tweaking or hacking them into something useful.
These prototypes often start from an LT spice simulation. It's pretty easy to set some specs for the simulator and tweak parts when the goals coincide with measurable quantities like a certain power level with as low as possible THD given a descending harmonic profile. Now, I want to 'reinvent" the vacuum tube guitar amp. How do I ask LT spice to make it "ROCK" and go PAST 11? I need to play with REAL Parts and maybe melt a few tubes!
The parts that were ordered will be used to make new modules, so TubeLab 4 will be much like TubeLab 3, except those screw terminal interconnects have to go. I'm experimenting with several alternatives and more than one type will likely be used.
In early 2004 I made a crude breadboarding system that I called the "TubeLab." It had a crude wood base with a copper screen stapled to it for a ground plane. There were 5 places to drop a PC board that had one or two tube sockets and some Fahnestock clips on it. This was used to design the TSE, 845SE, 300Beast, PowerDrive and a few of my other early creations. The black component in the upper left in picture 4851 is an IXYS10M45 and this is the first ever PowerDrive implementation. Its bigger brother lives on the heatsink behind the 845 tube. This was "TubeLab 1" before I decided to also use the name for the company that started up in 2005. TubeLab 1 was useful but limited in scope. Tubelab 2 was a radical change, which caused more frustration than it saved and was tossed in the trash before being finished.
TubeLab 1 had provisions for a lid that could be closed for experiments that could end badly. I got that idea after setting an OPT on fire when my Radio Shack dummy load blew open when I was squeezing about 150 watts from a pair of sweep tubes on over 700 volts. Unfortunately the lid was designed to fit the 45 tube seen in the early pictures, the 845 and the 6LW6 did not fit, so the lid never got used. I decided to reuse the base from TubeLab 1 to make TubeLab 3, but since there was no lid, I cut the outer rim all down to about 1.5 inches, added a row of connectors across the back for power supply connections, dropped in a piece of plastic pegboard and created several drop in modules for the popular tube pinouts.
TubeLab 3 can be seen here with a fully functioning 80 watt push pull sweep tube amp being tested. This system worked fine and was used until I packed up everything I owned and moved it all 1200 miles. The base of Tubelab 3 is here, but none of the individual modules have been seen since the move. Lots of other stuff disappeared too. I have pulled off lots of amp designs since then by hacking up old boards or laying out prototype boards and tweaking or hacking them into something useful.
These prototypes often start from an LT spice simulation. It's pretty easy to set some specs for the simulator and tweak parts when the goals coincide with measurable quantities like a certain power level with as low as possible THD given a descending harmonic profile. Now, I want to 'reinvent" the vacuum tube guitar amp. How do I ask LT spice to make it "ROCK" and go PAST 11? I need to play with REAL Parts and maybe melt a few tubes!
The parts that were ordered will be used to make new modules, so TubeLab 4 will be much like TubeLab 3, except those screw terminal interconnects have to go. I'm experimenting with several alternatives and more than one type will likely be used.
Attachments
@Sadface fingers crossed!
btw I just discovered by chance some more places where further store info is located on AliExpress, it's really a poor layout nowadays as the store info is spread out at 2 different places and each with their set of info.
One is on the item page, on the right side while hovering with the mouse over 'Sold by' on the upper-right side a drop-down window appears, pic below:
Click on 'Sold by' and it takes one to the stores homepage, there in the upper-left corner hover-over with mouse cursor on the store name and a drop-down window appears, pic below:
Rather annoying, and there are some other unpolished stuff on the member pages when signing in, resembling somewhat the incomplete or illogical messy user interface one can see on several Chinese brand mobile phones whenever they have added their own custom user interface on top of Android, one tiny thing on one phone I considered had an issue with the 'Back' button wouldn't work on one single page somewhere in the middle of the settings menu stack requiring one to reach for the back-arrow in the upper corner right in the middle when one usually expect backing out would just require to push back-back-back.., when using mobile phone or computer there's a lot of learned muscle reflexes that goes in and trying to remember one particular page behaving different behavior is hard to rewire ones a learned behavior is set, a reason I just said my new phone is going to have plain Android simply because they usually work.
There seem to be similar problems with many Chinese instrumentation as well, as an example I recently looked at some handheld LCR meters and in the end narrowed it down to the East Tester ET43* series and was pretty much ready to pull the trigger, until I read this thread on EEVblog (Take a closer look at the attached pictures in first post):
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/et432-lcr-meter-wild-results-range-function/
and another post in that thread with some more pics..
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testg...results-range-function/msg5296573/#msg5296573
EEVblog have a lot of instrumentation talks on their forum, warmly recommend anyone looking into buying lab gears to look it up on their forum first before sealing the deal.
ps. ended up ordering Sanwa LCR700 which is now on the way from Japan, another safe bet would be the DER DE-5000.
btw I just discovered by chance some more places where further store info is located on AliExpress, it's really a poor layout nowadays as the store info is spread out at 2 different places and each with their set of info.
One is on the item page, on the right side while hovering with the mouse over 'Sold by' on the upper-right side a drop-down window appears, pic below:
Click on 'Sold by' and it takes one to the stores homepage, there in the upper-left corner hover-over with mouse cursor on the store name and a drop-down window appears, pic below:
Rather annoying, and there are some other unpolished stuff on the member pages when signing in, resembling somewhat the incomplete or illogical messy user interface one can see on several Chinese brand mobile phones whenever they have added their own custom user interface on top of Android, one tiny thing on one phone I considered had an issue with the 'Back' button wouldn't work on one single page somewhere in the middle of the settings menu stack requiring one to reach for the back-arrow in the upper corner right in the middle when one usually expect backing out would just require to push back-back-back.., when using mobile phone or computer there's a lot of learned muscle reflexes that goes in and trying to remember one particular page behaving different behavior is hard to rewire ones a learned behavior is set, a reason I just said my new phone is going to have plain Android simply because they usually work.
There seem to be similar problems with many Chinese instrumentation as well, as an example I recently looked at some handheld LCR meters and in the end narrowed it down to the East Tester ET43* series and was pretty much ready to pull the trigger, until I read this thread on EEVblog (Take a closer look at the attached pictures in first post):
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/et432-lcr-meter-wild-results-range-function/
and another post in that thread with some more pics..
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testg...results-range-function/msg5296573/#msg5296573
EEVblog have a lot of instrumentation talks on their forum, warmly recommend anyone looking into buying lab gears to look it up on their forum first before sealing the deal.
ps. ended up ordering Sanwa LCR700 which is now on the way from Japan, another safe bet would be the DER DE-5000.
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£15 off here -depending on exactly what the 'normal' figure was of course... 😉Sure, why not. It's a whopping $5 off here. I hope you got a better deal than that. 😉
jeff
...and also bought myself yet another phono stage bare PCB for $7, both on AliExpress.
Which one, if you don't mind telling. I'm assuming it's OK if this is a repeat purchase...
It's the one called "MMCF10". I've never bought one one before, I meant instead that I have bought several phono PCB's and assembled boards over the years. I like it because it has a non-trivial PS design and uses 4 single op amps. I only dimly recall what commercial preamp it is based on, maybe early Hagerman?
Which one, if you don't mind telling. I'm assuming it's OK if this is a repeat purchase...
I am looking to get a cheap 2 channel scope. Any recommendations from Amazon Black Friday sales? What do we know about brands like Hanmatek and Fnirsi? They have a Hantek DSO2C10 for $189 or with waveform generator for $224.
Not exactly a Black Friday sale, but Shenzhen Audio had most of their products on a good discount.
So I got myself a Topping D90 III Discrete DAC for $849 which normally retails at $999. Its a great sounding DAC for that price.
So I got myself a Topping D90 III Discrete DAC for $849 which normally retails at $999. Its a great sounding DAC for that price.
The hanmatek is a rebranded owon sds1102 from memory. Decent scope, no sig gen. 5mv/div from memory. Good functions, mixed reviews on interface.I am looking to get a cheap 2 channel scope. Any recommendations from Amazon Black Friday sales? What do we know about brands like Hanmatek and Fnirsi? They have a Hantek DSO2C10 for $189 or with waveform generator for $224.
The fnirsi is the cheapest. 5mv/div from memory. More basic in terms of functions than the owon but has a sig gen. But fixed output voltage so less useful. Decent but basic interface iirc.
The hantek dso2c10 is probably better than the cheaper ones. 2mv/div. The dso2d10 more so due to decent sig gen. Decent interface.
The owon dso210 is the wild card. Just released in September(I think) so there are no reviews yet. 2mv/div. The dso210s had a sig gen. It appears to be designed to compete against the hantek. One advantage is that it can support 1gs/s ok both channels. The other options drop to 500ms/s when running both channels.
I've bet on the owon sds210s being the better scope than the hantek in the 'class' due to being a 3 year (I think) newer design.
There is also a 4 channel option for the same sort of money, a hanmatek iirc. You gain 2 channels but drop to 5mv/div and no sig gen.
I decided to save 100 % by not buying anything at all.
Best regards!
Best regards!
Decent enough deal on an 18gauge brad nail/ narrow crown staple combo for $48 Canuck pesos- my 20 yo Porter Cable finally gave up the ghost - and a 12” Japanese Ryoba pull saw for $18.
Thanks, uncle Jeff.
Thanks, uncle Jeff.
@Sadface : thanks for your thoughtful response. I decided to get the hantek DSO2D15 for the sig gen plus Amazon has an 8% off coupon. Pretty excited for the new toy....The hanmatek is a rebranded owon sds1102 from memory. Decent scope, no sig gen. 5mv/div from memory. Good functions, mixed reviews on interface.
The fnirsi is the cheapest. 5mv/div from memory. More basic in terms of functions than the owon but has a sig gen. But fixed output voltage so less useful. Decent but basic interface iirc.
The hantek dso2c10 is probably better than the cheaper ones. 2mv/div. The dso2d10 more so due to decent sig gen. Decent interface.
The owon dso210 is the wild card. Just released in September(I think) so there are no reviews yet. 2mv/div. The dso210s had a sig gen. It appears to be designed to compete against the hantek. One advantage is that it can support 1gs/s ok both channels. The other options drop to 500ms/s when running both channels.
I've bet on the owon sds210s being the better scope than the hantek in the 'class' due to being a 3 year (I think) newer design.
There is also a 4 channel option for the same sort of money, a hanmatek iirc. You gain 2 channels but drop to 5mv/div and no sig gen.
Must be a class A++ power amp if it needs that many power cords 🙂150 C7 power cords from MPJA @ $0.75 each...
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