I'm looking at affordable option to replace the OEM Plate amp in my JBL E250P which is rated at 250W 4 ohms. This is part of my home-theater setup and the sub amp is actually driven by the signal level output from my Denon AVR.
A replacement plate amp (such as a Dayton Audio) is both expensive and physically prohibitive as involves much more rework of the cabinet to accommodate.
In mini amps, what I'm currently considering might be:
Aiyima A3001 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LZFBLDM or
Nobsound G2PRO - https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Hi-Fi-Subwoofer-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B07TTMN51V
These look to be pretty much identical inside and utilize the TI 3255 - one difference being the power adapter is 6A for the Aiyima vs 5A for the Nobsound
I'm also wondering whether upgrading to a 48V 5A power adapter is worth the investment for either of these and give a meaningful boost in power?
The benefit of those is they are certainly easy to integrate, just hook up to the speaker.
Then there's this option to go with a Sure/Wondom board:
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/400Watt-Class-Audio-Amplifier-Board/dp/B07HHNWQSK?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Then get an appropriate power supply to drive it - lots of inexpensive options on Amazon.
I'm not sure that the mini amps are enough to drive that sub although I've seen reviews of others doing similar as plate amp replacements. For sure the power number they quote are wildly optimistic though, per dyno tests of similar on YouTube
I don't have any point of reference for the Board type solution but even if those specs are exaggerated, then would still be ahead of the minis. (they have 5 & 600 W boards too, but thinking this one would be adequate) Integration is not really much of an issue, I would just fit the board and PSU in the sub enclosure. And you can even get a volume control for under $10 for those boards. A low pass filter would not be necessary as handled by the main amp.
Board, power supply and volume control would collectively be about $85, very similar to the mini-amps, which would however be a little more if adding a 48V adapter.
So what are your thoughts/opinions?
A replacement plate amp (such as a Dayton Audio) is both expensive and physically prohibitive as involves much more rework of the cabinet to accommodate.
In mini amps, what I'm currently considering might be:
Aiyima A3001 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LZFBLDM or
Nobsound G2PRO - https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Hi-Fi-Subwoofer-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B07TTMN51V
These look to be pretty much identical inside and utilize the TI 3255 - one difference being the power adapter is 6A for the Aiyima vs 5A for the Nobsound
I'm also wondering whether upgrading to a 48V 5A power adapter is worth the investment for either of these and give a meaningful boost in power?
The benefit of those is they are certainly easy to integrate, just hook up to the speaker.
Then there's this option to go with a Sure/Wondom board:
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/400Watt-Class-Audio-Amplifier-Board/dp/B07HHNWQSK?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Then get an appropriate power supply to drive it - lots of inexpensive options on Amazon.
I'm not sure that the mini amps are enough to drive that sub although I've seen reviews of others doing similar as plate amp replacements. For sure the power number they quote are wildly optimistic though, per dyno tests of similar on YouTube
I don't have any point of reference for the Board type solution but even if those specs are exaggerated, then would still be ahead of the minis. (they have 5 & 600 W boards too, but thinking this one would be adequate) Integration is not really much of an issue, I would just fit the board and PSU in the sub enclosure. And you can even get a volume control for under $10 for those boards. A low pass filter would not be necessary as handled by the main amp.
Board, power supply and volume control would collectively be about $85, very similar to the mini-amps, which would however be a little more if adding a 48V adapter.
So what are your thoughts/opinions?
Did you ever get a response? I have the same problem. Don't want to trash the unit if its repairable.
@CH-53K I also started same post on Reddit with little contribution there either.
I was planning to go with the Wodom board - priced out all the other things I would need - PSU, blanking plate, feedthroughs etc and about to pull trigger
But then I just came across this - https://fosiaudio.com/pages/monoblock-power-amplifier-v3-mono
That is a new (as yet unreleased) mini amplifier
(It's similar technology to the first two links above, featuring the Texas Instruments TPA3255 Power Amp Chip)
Note the 'kickstarter' link (click on that within the link attached and subsribe for updates)
I signed up for notifications on that & I think I am going to jump on that when it becomes live in about 10 days
Fosi Audio have done Kickstarters before and the pricing for those is generally attractive
The specs on this new V3 mono look enticing especially with the 48V supply
They also have good reputation on YouTube reviews
So I think that might just be my solution - if the price is in line with expectation, I'm going for this.
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Decosse - thanks for the response! It looks like the Fios V3 isn't available yet but I will keep checking. Admittedly, I know just enough to be dangerous when it comes to this subject matter. Will this be a plug n play fix or will it still be necessary to fabricate blocking plates, etc.? Willing to accept any assistance you can offer!
I think they are due to ship by end of the month (the targets in the kickstarter have been met so they might go before the original commit date)
You just need to connect the output of the new amp directly to the speaker itself and then the input RCA in from your current input to the new amp.
The connection schematic is exactly the same as before, except you have a new two-part scheme - amplifier and power supply - vs the original.
As far as amp goes, treat it the same as original, signal in from RCA and speaker output to the subwoofer speaker.
You can either just drill hole in existing amp panel to feed through new speaker wire, or just make a blanking plate to replace the original complete amp assembly. (you can pick up aluminum sheet in various sizes off Amazon)
With a new blanking panel you can make as simple or complicated as your skills and tools dictate:
simple, an oversize panel surface mounted to rear, with just a single hole feedthrough for the speaker wire.
Or - cut panel to exact cut-out size, same as the original amp plate; then again simple hole for speaker wire OR you can get creative and mount power supply and amp INSIDE the enclosure, then you need feedthroughs for power and RCA to get into it. This might be overkill especially if you have room to locate the supply and amp outside (maybe even mounted on the outside rear face of enclosure - or simply lying on the floor!)
Look up 'panel mount speaker connector' on amazon, that will make for a clean connection to the outside and make it sealed. It's a mono speaker so you only need one pair a '+' and '-'
You just need to connect the output of the new amp directly to the speaker itself and then the input RCA in from your current input to the new amp.
The connection schematic is exactly the same as before, except you have a new two-part scheme - amplifier and power supply - vs the original.
As far as amp goes, treat it the same as original, signal in from RCA and speaker output to the subwoofer speaker.
You can either just drill hole in existing amp panel to feed through new speaker wire, or just make a blanking plate to replace the original complete amp assembly. (you can pick up aluminum sheet in various sizes off Amazon)
With a new blanking panel you can make as simple or complicated as your skills and tools dictate:
simple, an oversize panel surface mounted to rear, with just a single hole feedthrough for the speaker wire.
Or - cut panel to exact cut-out size, same as the original amp plate; then again simple hole for speaker wire OR you can get creative and mount power supply and amp INSIDE the enclosure, then you need feedthroughs for power and RCA to get into it. This might be overkill especially if you have room to locate the supply and amp outside (maybe even mounted on the outside rear face of enclosure - or simply lying on the floor!)
Look up 'panel mount speaker connector' on amazon, that will make for a clean connection to the outside and make it sealed. It's a mono speaker so you only need one pair a '+' and '-'
@CH-53K - just an FYI, today (29th May) is last day for the 20% off kickstarter price (~$126 for amplifier with 5A Power Supply) and the scheduled ship date has been confirmed as June 15th.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fosiaudio/fosi-audio-v3-mono-power-amplifier
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fosiaudio/fosi-audio-v3-mono-power-amplifier
@CH-53K - I've had this for several months and only just got around to completing the install (been busy with home improvement projects!)
It only took a little over an hour, which included drilling the mounting plate, installing the audio feed-throughs, connecting speaker to those on inside then mounting the plate. Only need to then connect the speaker wires to the amp and the RCA input and connect the Power Supply.
You can see I decided just to leave the Amp and Power Supply external, made for much easier connection with only the two speaker feed-throughs to mount on the plate.
I didn't show the inside but literally you simply remove the original amp and connect the speaker wires directly to those feedthrough terminals.
The result was REALLY pleasing!
I tested with 'Edge of Tomorrow' which has some intense Sub feature at the very beginning.
It did great!
Very pleased with this upgrade.
If you still require a fix and need any more info on the 'how' or the specific parts I used, happy to help further
It only took a little over an hour, which included drilling the mounting plate, installing the audio feed-throughs, connecting speaker to those on inside then mounting the plate. Only need to then connect the speaker wires to the amp and the RCA input and connect the Power Supply.
You can see I decided just to leave the Amp and Power Supply external, made for much easier connection with only the two speaker feed-throughs to mount on the plate.
I didn't show the inside but literally you simply remove the original amp and connect the speaker wires directly to those feedthrough terminals.
The result was REALLY pleasing!
I tested with 'Edge of Tomorrow' which has some intense Sub feature at the very beginning.
It did great!
Very pleased with this upgrade.
If you still require a fix and need any more info on the 'how' or the specific parts I used, happy to help further
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Decosse - nice clean install! I will do mine sometime in Dec. Just to confirm, I need the Fios Amp listed below that I can get from Amazon?
You didn't include the specific link but I looked it up on Amazon
Even when I look at the listing directly and through the description etc I'm not totally clear on whether that actually includes the power supply
Here is the link directly from Fosi
https://fosiaudio.com/products/fosi-audio-v3-mono-power-amplifier?variant=45168133603558
At the Fosi site, you should see a link that offers 10% off your first order if you sign up for mail notifications)
(you can always sign up and then unsubscribe after you get your order)
This is the plate I bought - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPLD6Z96
I didn't cut it, that dimension on images is as-received.
Only had to drill holes
And the feedthroughs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPLD6Z96
Those take 1/4 hole and have insulating bush. The spade tabs are a bit small but I just squeezed the female spades on the speaker wires with some pliers before pushing them on and they held securely. You could solder if you prefer.
Even when I look at the listing directly and through the description etc I'm not totally clear on whether that actually includes the power supply
Here is the link directly from Fosi
https://fosiaudio.com/products/fosi-audio-v3-mono-power-amplifier?variant=45168133603558
At the Fosi site, you should see a link that offers 10% off your first order if you sign up for mail notifications)
(you can always sign up and then unsubscribe after you get your order)
This is the plate I bought - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPLD6Z96
I didn't cut it, that dimension on images is as-received.
Only had to drill holes
And the feedthroughs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPLD6Z96
Those take 1/4 hole and have insulating bush. The spade tabs are a bit small but I just squeezed the female spades on the speaker wires with some pliers before pushing them on and they held securely. You could solder if you prefer.
Decosse, you're gonna love this. - Received the new Amp yesterday and figured I would do the install today. My plan was to try and use the the front panel off the old Amp for the cover on the opening. Removed all the screws and gently pried the housing off the face plate. Once inside I noticed a small 5 amp slow blow fuse. Visually couldn't tell if it was blow so put my meter on it and it was open. At this point I figured what have I got to loose. Replaced the fuse, blew out some cob webs, and put the amp back together and reinstalled it in the housing. Brought it back in the den and hooked it back up to the receiver and fired everything up. Found the movie trailer to "Edge of Tomorrow" and turned it up to 11. So far so good! Something caused the fuse to blow so I'm keeping the replacement parts handy. 😁
Attachments
Cool Result!
Hope it stays good for you - the track record on these however is that it will eventually have problems.
But why not leave that until if/when it happens. 🙂
Hope it stays good for you - the track record on these however is that it will eventually have problems.
But why not leave that until if/when it happens. 🙂
I also had the same problem with this JBL ES250P subwoofer and I managed to find an interesting and relatively cheap solution by replacing the original JBL amplification board with the L30D board with some changes to it to reduce temperature and preserve the original protection circuit of the JBL subwoofer. It is working perfectly, connected to a Marantz SR7012 receiver on the LFE subwoofer output.
Here is the link with my thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ration-and-thermal-improvements.426353/latest
And here is the link to the Chinese L30D amplifier:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005002354798038.html
Here is the link with my thread:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ration-and-thermal-improvements.426353/latest
And here is the link to the Chinese L30D amplifier:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005002354798038.html