Hi Guys!
I am preparing a build of my next set of speakers.
I already purchased a set of Beyma TPL-150H, but miss the mid-bass driver.
The driver is supposed to fill the gap between my SB Acoustic subwoofers, crossed at 100 Hz, and the TPL’s.
Not sure, where to cross over the TPL’s, but I assume in the range of 1200-1600 Hz?
It is not possible to cross the subs higher than 100 Hz; they are slot loaded, and sounds “funny”, when crossed higher.
The system will be working as active, driven by 3 sets of Lyngdorf TDAI 2200.
I have been looking thoroughly through the data sheets of majority of drivers available, and tried to find inspiration in other builts, but perhaps some of you have real-life experience.
I favour professional drivers with high BL and low moving mass.
Thanks in advance, and greeting from Denmark!
I am preparing a build of my next set of speakers.
I already purchased a set of Beyma TPL-150H, but miss the mid-bass driver.
The driver is supposed to fill the gap between my SB Acoustic subwoofers, crossed at 100 Hz, and the TPL’s.
Not sure, where to cross over the TPL’s, but I assume in the range of 1200-1600 Hz?
It is not possible to cross the subs higher than 100 Hz; they are slot loaded, and sounds “funny”, when crossed higher.
The system will be working as active, driven by 3 sets of Lyngdorf TDAI 2200.
I have been looking thoroughly through the data sheets of majority of drivers available, and tried to find inspiration in other builts, but perhaps some of you have real-life experience.
I favour professional drivers with high BL and low moving mass.
Thanks in advance, and greeting from Denmark!
AE TD10M. Also seen the 12M used in other projects. A search will turn up the projects.
My 10Ms were about 1k5 from memory.
My 10Ms were about 1k5 from memory.
hello.
I advice you to use the search function, there is litterally 100s of hours of info on the subject on here.
Also read up on TPL150 mods if using it that low, to remove its 1,6 k resonance. That will lower distortion, improve dispersion etc depending on chosen path.
Many choose a 2k ish xo with the TPL avoiding to deal with the resonance at 1,6k, then you would look at a 8".
looking at pro driver you either need actve/eq ,a ported box or lower sensitivity for the 100hz xo.
So a bit more info wont hurt.
Looking for a driver that matches the horns horizontal dispersion at xo, is quite a common goal.
10" -12" has often been chosen.
price/budget?
Closed box? Active EQ?
Ported?
size constraints?
popular choices are:
JBL: 2206H, still hard to beat for 150$ used, in that range. 2119H($$).
AE: TD 10M, TD12M.
Beyma : 12p80ND, 12P80FE, 10MCF400ND
BC: 8pe21
Faital: 12PR330 (PRxxx), FH5xx, RS and FE series 10/12" have some new decent choices.
18S has some nice looking 10"/12" depending on what you want from 12nmb420, to the tetracoil 12ntlw.
Eminence : Deltalite 2512, Beta 8A
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/beyma-tpl-150.390081/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/active-tpl-150h-and-12p80nd-v2-project.286060/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/beyma-12p80nd-tpl-150.231551/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/acoustical-notch-filter-for-tpl-150.359480/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tpl-150h-back-chamber-mods.292365/page-3
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/46273-a-couple-high-end-drivers-tested-data
I advice you to use the search function, there is litterally 100s of hours of info on the subject on here.
Also read up on TPL150 mods if using it that low, to remove its 1,6 k resonance. That will lower distortion, improve dispersion etc depending on chosen path.
Many choose a 2k ish xo with the TPL avoiding to deal with the resonance at 1,6k, then you would look at a 8".
looking at pro driver you either need actve/eq ,a ported box or lower sensitivity for the 100hz xo.
So a bit more info wont hurt.
Looking for a driver that matches the horns horizontal dispersion at xo, is quite a common goal.
10" -12" has often been chosen.
price/budget?
Closed box? Active EQ?
Ported?
size constraints?
popular choices are:
JBL: 2206H, still hard to beat for 150$ used, in that range. 2119H($$).
AE: TD 10M, TD12M.
Beyma : 12p80ND, 12P80FE, 10MCF400ND
BC: 8pe21
Faital: 12PR330 (PRxxx), FH5xx, RS and FE series 10/12" have some new decent choices.
18S has some nice looking 10"/12" depending on what you want from 12nmb420, to the tetracoil 12ntlw.
Eminence : Deltalite 2512, Beta 8A
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/beyma-tpl-150.390081/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/active-tpl-150h-and-12p80nd-v2-project.286060/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/beyma-12p80nd-tpl-150.231551/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/acoustical-notch-filter-for-tpl-150.359480/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tpl-150h-back-chamber-mods.292365/page-3
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/46273-a-couple-high-end-drivers-tested-data
You'll want something which matches the Beyma in character. Thats not easy being they're different types of drivers with differing off axis behavior.
I like the Delta Pro 12A, as well as the 12MH32, but I think a 3 way would be better with an B&C 8PE21, Eminence Beta8A or Audax PR170MO.
Yes, the Beyma AMT.goes down further to allow for 2 way use but the sound is rough to my ears running it lower than 2k. Its to grainy and harsh at higher volumes for my ears.
I like the Delta Pro 12A, as well as the 12MH32, but I think a 3 way would be better with an B&C 8PE21, Eminence Beta8A or Audax PR170MO.
Yes, the Beyma AMT.goes down further to allow for 2 way use but the sound is rough to my ears running it lower than 2k. Its to grainy and harsh at higher volumes for my ears.
Thank you for all your replies.
I am aware og many of the mentioned articles, but I felt that most where regarding 2-way solutions…. I want 3-way.
Regarding cabinet: closed, and not up for debate ☺️
Crossover: active.
I plan to change to Roon; as I understand, EQ there is possible. I need EQ for my subwoofers.
I currently run the subwoofers with Hypes plate amps, but they will be replaced by one of my Lyngdorf amplifiers.
When all is running, I plan to install Acourate, and create filters, EQ etc. via this program.
I already noticed some of the modifications, but I did perhaps not look deep enough into them.
Also the peak at 1,6 KHz, was not getting that much attention, so perhaps, I should start there: modifying the Beyma’s.
My dream wat, to cut as low as possible, in the range of 1200-1600 Hz, and I am in doubt, if a 10” driver will make an ideal match, or 8” is the better solution?
I am aware og many of the mentioned articles, but I felt that most where regarding 2-way solutions…. I want 3-way.
Regarding cabinet: closed, and not up for debate ☺️
Crossover: active.
I plan to change to Roon; as I understand, EQ there is possible. I need EQ for my subwoofers.
I currently run the subwoofers with Hypes plate amps, but they will be replaced by one of my Lyngdorf amplifiers.
When all is running, I plan to install Acourate, and create filters, EQ etc. via this program.
I already noticed some of the modifications, but I did perhaps not look deep enough into them.
Also the peak at 1,6 KHz, was not getting that much attention, so perhaps, I should start there: modifying the Beyma’s.
My dream wat, to cut as low as possible, in the range of 1200-1600 Hz, and I am in doubt, if a 10” driver will make an ideal match, or 8” is the better solution?
Hello mordikai!
I just checked it, and noticed the lack of output in the low end.
I need 100 Hz, because my sub sound bad above….
I just checked it, and noticed the lack of output in the low end.
I need 100 Hz, because my sub sound bad above….
it's not great for lowend. i used it with a 15" that was great up to 700hz so they had plenty of over lap
Mine were 3 way active with AE TD15X and 10M, lower xover about 250hz, sealed and EQ'd in about 80L net for the 15X.
In the “right“ enclosure/baffle-size: Visaton B200 (70Hz to 1200Hz)
-the size of the baffle is crucial to get a fairly linear result from 100Hz up to 1kHz. A LARGE front horn will give you the best result but is far more “exotic” and requires certain design choices to be made for proper integration.
-the size of the baffle is crucial to get a fairly linear result from 100Hz up to 1kHz. A LARGE front horn will give you the best result but is far more “exotic” and requires certain design choices to be made for proper integration.
Hows the diffraction from all the sharp edges around the mids and tweeters? Might want to try some wool felt on the mid/tweeter panel and see if it helps.
^Yup, (maybe 30 ppi foam.)
..and because of the active DSP amps the B200’s would still work very well, they would just need correction.
Really - any low-mass midbass (Fs lower than 80 Hz) should work well. It will need enough excursion (relative to driver Sd) though for your application and SPL-requirements. Ideally the smaller diameter the better (to move the driver‘s acoustic-centers closer together), but that tends to require more excursion.
Your current AT drivers are probably excellent. If you want *objectively better in a small driver then look to the smaller Purifi drivers.
*though likely not subjectively better.
..and because of the active DSP amps the B200’s would still work very well, they would just need correction.
Really - any low-mass midbass (Fs lower than 80 Hz) should work well. It will need enough excursion (relative to driver Sd) though for your application and SPL-requirements. Ideally the smaller diameter the better (to move the driver‘s acoustic-centers closer together), but that tends to require more excursion.
Your current AT drivers are probably excellent. If you want *objectively better in a small driver then look to the smaller Purifi drivers.
*though likely not subjectively better.
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