Came across some YouTube tutorials on how DIY usb cables:
This video about mid-priced systems being improved by "higher end" USB cables:
And this one about some very high-end "audiophile" USB cables:
Not sure about USB. I just use the cheap "free" cables that came with my printer or scanner.
I have experimented a bit with shortening the cheap/free cables. Not sure about results.
In any case, building my own USB cables -- as the top two videos suggest -- seems like a cheap and easy way to improve sound from my PC.
Anyone out there with more experience or suggestions on this topic?
This video about mid-priced systems being improved by "higher end" USB cables:
And this one about some very high-end "audiophile" USB cables:
Not sure about USB. I just use the cheap "free" cables that came with my printer or scanner.
I have experimented a bit with shortening the cheap/free cables. Not sure about results.
In any case, building my own USB cables -- as the top two videos suggest -- seems like a cheap and easy way to improve sound from my PC.
Anyone out there with more experience or suggestions on this topic?
USB topology is very simple and, provided the cable is well constructed, fancy configurations are unnecessary.
The 2.0 specification limits the length of a cable between USB 2.0 devices (Full Speed or Hi-Speed) to 5 metres.
The 3.0/3.1 specification does not specify a maximum cable length between USB 3.0/3.1 devices (SuperSpeed or SuperSpeed+), but there is a recommended length of 3 metres.
The 2.0 specification limits the length of a cable between USB 2.0 devices (Full Speed or Hi-Speed) to 5 metres.
The 3.0/3.1 specification does not specify a maximum cable length between USB 3.0/3.1 devices (SuperSpeed or SuperSpeed+), but there is a recommended length of 3 metres.
I used CAT 5 cables to make my own.
That was for regular USB 2.0 cables, with big connectors on both sides. About a meter long.
USB 3 cables are fiddly to solder (tiny place to solder), and good ones are about a dollar here, not worth the hassle.
That was for regular USB 2.0 cables, with big connectors on both sides. About a meter long.
USB 3 cables are fiddly to solder (tiny place to solder), and good ones are about a dollar here, not worth the hassle.
I think I'll use JSC foil-wrapped (shielded), which is an industry standard. I has 4 conductors inside. Not sure about A and B jacks themselves.
Maybe some copper/gold combo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203457355910
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284955857328
Still curious about length. I assume the shortest one can use is the best. My headphone amp, dac and PC are all right next to each other so I can tolerate very short lengths.
Maybe some copper/gold combo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203457355910
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284955857328
Still curious about length. I assume the shortest one can use is the best. My headphone amp, dac and PC are all right next to each other so I can tolerate very short lengths.
I constructed my own USB A to B cable. Couldn't source pure silver conductor, so I used silver plated copper with teflon insulation. It sonically helps to lower the gauge of the data carrying wires and to run data and power lines keeping them apart. I also connected overall shield only at the source end and not at the DAC end. The improvement in sonics is not small.
My PC is 5 + mètres away from the DAC (pre and amps) Smsl do100 DAC . It won't accept a normal 5 mètres USB cable. I was using a cat 6 extension USB -cat6- USB. But it won't reproduce 192 khz material !!!! 96 kHz yes, what s the problem? What cable can l use???
So...a whole bunch of y'alls don't understand how the USB interface works.
Mike
Mike
Most likely your cable + USB host + USB receiver combination does not work at USB2 highspeed (480Mbps), running only at fullspeed (12Mbps). Check with some USB analysis SW (e.g. lsusb -t in linux).
Couple of things ...
- USB transmission is, as suggested in the videos, an analog method (like SPDIF, hdmi or I2s).
- The power pins may not be needed, so one might omit those from their diy USB cable.
- A USB isolation device might also help.
The digital signal on the USB 2.0 connection is clocked at 240 MHz: this is a full blown radio frequency signal such as the antenna input of a TV set. Exactly as you will get poor results by replacing the TV antenna cable with a generic cable meant for analog audio, the USB 2.0 signal will be degraded with increased error rate if the conductor does not have the radio frequency requirements listed on the specifications. They are freely available at https://www.usb.org/documents ; I attach page 185 of the original USB 2.0 specification for reference. USB 3.0 cables have a different spec. Note that USB 2.0 cable requirements are different from CAT5 ethernet twisted pairs cable requirements.
A degraded electrical signal is still accepted when the cable is short, because the USB data exchange protocol does have a well designed built-in negotiation and error correction feature. When the error rate is lower than a specific treshold, data is retransmitted to enable a bit perfect data exchange. If the error rate goes over the treshold, a lower speed is selected, a notification is sent to the device driver, and the application software disables the higher sampling rates.
According to my experience, pre-built USB cables are usually OK to use, but the cheaper ones have issues due to poor/unstable terminations on the connectors and excessive resistence of power lines. This issue of cheap USB cables has been confirmed by laboratory tests published by reputable computer magazines, and has become evident due to the proliferation of high speed devices such as smartphones that are pushing both the USB current specification and data transfer speeds to the limit. The maximum lenght restriction can be circumvented by active cables that have a built-in repeater chip. I tried a few of them and they work fine.
A degraded electrical signal is still accepted when the cable is short, because the USB data exchange protocol does have a well designed built-in negotiation and error correction feature. When the error rate is lower than a specific treshold, data is retransmitted to enable a bit perfect data exchange. If the error rate goes over the treshold, a lower speed is selected, a notification is sent to the device driver, and the application software disables the higher sampling rates.
According to my experience, pre-built USB cables are usually OK to use, but the cheaper ones have issues due to poor/unstable terminations on the connectors and excessive resistence of power lines. This issue of cheap USB cables has been confirmed by laboratory tests published by reputable computer magazines, and has become evident due to the proliferation of high speed devices such as smartphones that are pushing both the USB current specification and data transfer speeds to the limit. The maximum lenght restriction can be circumvented by active cables that have a built-in repeater chip. I tried a few of them and they work fine.
pcan mentions "active cables".
USB active cables contain electronics that regenerate the USB signal.
The maximum active cable length for USB 2.0 is 30 metres and the maximum recommended length for USB 3.0/3.1 is 18 metres.
USB active cables contain electronics that regenerate the USB signal.
The maximum active cable length for USB 2.0 is 30 metres and the maximum recommended length for USB 3.0/3.1 is 18 metres.
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Thanks. can I use it for transferring Qobuz hi res files @192 khz from my pc to my dac and stereo system ??? The cat 6 usb cable I m using now, just plays 96 khz files---optical does the 192 fare though
Yes, search for a "usb active extension cable" of the required lenght. I use them for a special application; sometimes I use more than one to reach up to 30m. It is also possible to use CAT6 network cable up to 100m, but this requires a more expensive repeater with USB and RJ45 ports, and the device at the repeated end cannot be powered by the cable. Most usb active extensions can supply low-power USB devices instead, when required. Active extension cables usually have an internal USB hub chip. This may generate compatibility issues with older or marginal devices. If you found a issue, try to use a different USB port on your PC because sometimes they aren't all equal. Some active USB extension cables are only a electrical amplifier. This is almost never explained on the device description or package, so you may need to try on your setup.
Thanks. I bought today a 7 metres amplified USB cable, if not good, l will send it back, today l sent back a supposedly miracle optical cable - USB - USB terminated. Good for nothing.
I bought it. The problem is if it will allow 192 khz or more through it. Have you tried it in such situation? Cannot use XLR cables, because my CD player is on the system stacks, cannot take the DAC out. Or l will use it with optical cable. Lower résolution.
I recently made a pair of USB cables for two people from the Mogami 3080. The impedance of the latter is 110 ohms compared to the 90 ohms typical of a standard USB cable. Taking into account a tolerance of +/- 15% for each one, the realization through the Mogami can be admitted.
Actually, other people have already tried this mogami before, with positive feedback.
In the attachment there is the example of the cable made keeping the power supply separate from the data (twin cable). About the listening test I was told to me it played good, and I personally agree, even in the absence of some measurement tests to confirm the "goodness" of the cable.
Actually, other people have already tried this mogami before, with positive feedback.
In the attachment there is the example of the cable made keeping the power supply separate from the data (twin cable). About the listening test I was told to me it played good, and I personally agree, even in the absence of some measurement tests to confirm the "goodness" of the cable.
