Does anyone have a schematic for an MMATS 2050x?
A capacitor has burned a hole through the pcb and I would rather be sure of the connections that are no longer there.
A capacitor has burned a hole through the pcb and I would rather be sure of the connections that are no longer there.
I don't have anything on that specific amp but since there are a lot of clone-type amps, I may have something close. Email me a good quality photo (no flare from the flash, in focus...) of the component side of the main board and the component side of any driver boards in the amp and I'll see if it looks familiar.
The damage is not overly severe. The bottom is easy to make out.
I was more concerned with the traces on top of the board but I am pretty sure that the one coming from under the transformer goes to the (-) terminal of the capacitor.
I have not used any acetone yet to clean it up. I dug some of the damage out. It was more of a gooey mess than burnt.
I was more concerned with the traces on top of the board but I am pretty sure that the one coming from under the transformer goes to the (-) terminal of the capacitor.
I have not used any acetone yet to clean it up. I dug some of the damage out. It was more of a gooey mess than burnt.
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You first need to remove 100% of the contaminated/carbonized material. If you don't, this is likely to continue to worsen.
I only see one trace that goes from the top of the board to the leg of the cap and then to the bottom of the board.
If there are any other similar caps, I'd remove then and check for leakage. If there is any leakage, replace that cap as well.
I only see one trace that goes from the top of the board to the leg of the cap and then to the bottom of the board.
If there are any other similar caps, I'd remove then and check for leakage. If there is any leakage, replace that cap as well.
Maybe as an insulator, a coating to prevent corrosion for a non-anodized surface or a coating for better thermal performance?
Who knows. Didn't know if I needed to try to strip it off, but it has been working for several years as it is.
I didn't find anything.
A view of the pin configuration may help.
Does it need to be double-throw (unlikely)?
A view of the pin configuration may help.
Does it need to be double-throw (unlikely)?
In the pics below, the side view, the bottom view and the view from the datasheet.
The pin labeled "N.C. is not on the board. No pin on relay.
The biggest concern is that the owner is using plexiglas as the cover to see inside the amp.
I can disguise a different relay to some extent even if I have to use the old relay cover.
The pin labeled "N.C. is not on the board. No pin on relay.
The biggest concern is that the owner is using plexiglas as the cover to see inside the amp.
I can disguise a different relay to some extent even if I have to use the old relay cover.
