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TPA3255 Reference Design Class D Amp GB

Considering running this amp or amps(2) off the big house batteries in our full time RV using the DC to DC 51 volt converter shown on your test bench setup.

I need to figure out the current draw one or two of these amps will require to see if I have a big enough circuit feeding the area, 30 ft from the batteries, or if I need to run larger cables.

I could also just run a local battery as in your test bench setup and charge it as you do but part of the reason of wanting a D class amp is to save as much energy as I can.

I have plenty of AC power on hand as wired in two 20 amp dedicated double shielded runs just for audio though more than I will ever need, I am using one for computers and the TV for now.

Also there are lots of high CRI LED puck lights(32) and PWM (10) dimmers recently installed as well as furnace fans and not much else on the 12 volt circuit, noise is a consideration.

When I add in a solar system later on, will not need much of one due to the very high level of insulation, efficient appliances, on demand gas water heater and gas dryer I will have to ensure it does not add any other noise issues into the 12 volt system.

Rick
 
Thanks, I read the whole thread over and that is where I saw you used the low cost converter from 12-51 volts and the battery.

We do play it loud sometimes though I am considering the added cap bank to the amp(s) and can just calculate the circuit for 20 amps, etc and size the wire that way. It is a pretty long run so will have to see what I can use that is cost effective and of proper quality.

(just checked, 8 gauge for 15 amps, 6 gauge for 20-25 amps, it would be nice if 8 gauge was big enough, maybe it would be with the added cap bank.

I have some 8 gauge in storage but not likely enough, probably have enough 4 gauge but a bit overkill and harder to run, also quite a bit of 1/0, way overkill.

I was pretty sure I was going to run two amps but after reading everything again I realized just not likely needed, been a long time since having mono block amps but in this case just might not be worth it, more than good enough.


Thanks again!
Rick
 
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Oops, I left out that I will be running very efficient speakers so much less power needed,

Frugel-Horn Joan with MA200 drivers.

At least I hope I will be running them, hope they work well in our full time RV.

If not whatever I build will be as efficient as I can make work for us.
 
I just got a bill from UPS for 54% tariff (not a small amount) plus $17 “brokerage fee” for the TPA3255 PCBs. This tariff war is going to make us all broke. Is that why it’s called a brokerage fee? I forgot to take this into account when I was ordering the boards. I assumed they handled all the costs at checkout but they do not. It’s up to the shipper to do that.
 
It is too late, paid already and boards arrived. I should have waited 2 more days. What happens to all payments collected on tariffs and courts determine unconstitutional? Are the payments refunded? Things change on a daily basis it’s crazy. How can companies do business with any predictable forecasting of costs?
 
@xrk971 I was one of the people originally showing interest in the PCB's but can see I missed the post about the preorders. Can I still order a PCB or are they all gone?
They are now available for sale on my shop but the first 10 orders who pre-ordered get a free CNC aluminum thermal heatsink coupler block ($12.50 value). The 10 have all been accounted for.

PCBs here:
https://xrkaudio.etsy.com/listing/4305920145

Thermal heatsink coupler block here:
https://xrkaudio.etsy.com/listing/1070695614