Maybe it's just my luck.
I've had other issues with Dayton.
I had a DA135-8 with the polarity reversed.
Found that out when I paralleled two woofers.
Instead of 4 ohms, I got 16 ohms.
Another instance was with a 10" pro woofer, the MB1025-8.
She just didn't sound right when I first tested her. Like music breaking up.
After a few hard push of the cone, she sounded like she should.
Probably some grit in the voice coil gap.
Mike
I've had other issues with Dayton.
I had a DA135-8 with the polarity reversed.
Found that out when I paralleled two woofers.
Instead of 4 ohms, I got 16 ohms.
Another instance was with a 10" pro woofer, the MB1025-8.
She just didn't sound right when I first tested her. Like music breaking up.
After a few hard push of the cone, she sounded like she should.
Probably some grit in the voice coil gap.
Mike
Mike,I had a DA135-8 with the polarity reversed.
Found that out when I paralleled two woofers.
Instead of 4 ohms, I got 16 ohms.
The DA135-8 is an 8 ohm driver, regardless of the polarity of either driver, two in parallel = 4 ohms, two in series =16 ohms.
If one driver had it's polarity reversed, you would need to wire "+" to "-" in parallel, or "+" to "+" (or "-" to "-") in a series connection to correct the reversal.
Anyway, always a good idea to visually check polarity with a battery before (and after..) wiring 😉 .
Art
Art
That's exactly it.
I wired them ++ and -- and I got 16 ohms instead of 4 ohms.
One of the woofers terminals was wrongly soldered by the manufacturer. The + was a - and the - was a +.
That's how I ended up with 16 ohms when I paralleled them.
After that, I wired them in series and they were 4 ohms.
Luckily I checked because it would have cancelled each other in my triple chamber BP.
Sometimes, Dayton products have QC issues.
Mike
That's exactly it.
I wired them ++ and -- and I got 16 ohms instead of 4 ohms.
One of the woofers terminals was wrongly soldered by the manufacturer. The + was a - and the - was a +.
That's how I ended up with 16 ohms when I paralleled them.
After that, I wired them in series and they were 4 ohms.
Luckily I checked because it would have cancelled each other in my triple chamber BP.
Sometimes, Dayton products have QC issues.
Mike
I had a DA135-8 with the polarity reversed.
Found that out when I paralleled two woofers.
Instead of 4 ohms, I got 16 ohms.
Um ... Whut?
I wired them ++ and -- and I got 16 ohms instead of 4 ohms.
One of the woofers terminals was wrongly soldered by the manufacturer. The + was a - and the - was a +.
That's how I ended up with 16 ohms when I paralleled them.
After that, I wired them in series and they were 4 ohms.
If you still have them, maybe you can reproduce it, to show what happens when you parallel them?I had a DA135-8 with the polarity reversed.
Found that out when I paralleled two woofers.
Instead of 4 ohms, I got 16 ohms.
If you still have them, maybe you can reproduce it, to show what happens when you parallel them?
I'm afraid the woofers are already in the bandpass.
I can't dismantle it to retrieve them.
@ wolf
Yeah, that doesn't make any sense.
Yes, it doesn't but that's what I got.
I even mentioned it in my blog.
That was in Oct 2020.
I've moved on since.
I don't have the time to rectify other people's problem.
Were the two drivers in your bandpass build mounted isobaric style, facing each other?
Mine is!
How do you keep your car from not breaking into parts with that monster 🫨 ?Mine is!
LOL, I think the highest volume level has been 20. I listen between 12 and 15. I don't remember how high the volume goes on the Atoto A6 Pro head unit. It's definitely a head banger. That 2011 Ford Crown Vic was supposed to go to my son. Now, I'm working on a 2010 Mercury Grand Marquis with two 18's in a BP4.
Two 18s in a sedan.... Jhesus 🙂
My two 12s in a sealed box in the spare tire well are enough for me - they easily send the car into rattlemania and overpower the 6.5s I have in the doors.
My two 12s in a sealed box in the spare tire well are enough for me - they easily send the car into rattlemania and overpower the 6.5s I have in the doors.
The real american sedans we Europeans know from the movies 👍That 2011 Ford Crown Vic was supposed to go to my son. Now, I'm working on a 2010 Mercury Grand Marquis
I had a 1983 Mercury Grand Marquis LS from 1995-2003. It had 4 isobaric MTX 15'S in a BP4 enclosure. The car blew a head gasket. I donated the car to the Volunteers of America. We had a garage sale afterwards and the enclosure was the 1st thing to sell for $200.Two 18s in a sedan.... Jhesus 🙂
My two 12s in a sealed box in the spare tire well are enough for me - they easily send the car into rattlemania and overpower the 6.5s I have in the doors.
I still have the single 12" BP4 enclosure.
It's not connected to anything.
My wife has a girlfriend who's a basshead. She has a Nissan Kick with the factory Rockford Fosgate 2 x 6" BR enclosure. I might put the 12" BP4 with the 6" BR enclosure.
It's not connected to anything.
My wife has a girlfriend who's a basshead. She has a Nissan Kick with the factory Rockford Fosgate 2 x 6" BR enclosure. I might put the 12" BP4 with the 6" BR enclosure.
That is what you get when:The car blew a head gasket.
😁It had 4 isobaric MTX 15'S in a BP4 enclosure.
🤣😂🤣😂
I think the car had around 200k miles on it when it happened. That car was the best $650 I ever spent in my life. I got 7 good years of use and was able write off $675 for the donation. You can't beat that $25 profit.
I think the car had around 200k miles on it when it happened. That car was the best $650 I ever spent in my life. I got 7 good years of use and was able write off $675 for the donation. You can't beat that $25 profit.
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