The B+ and B++ from you PSU will be identical, not as shown in the amp schematic.
Looking at the curves of the 6N1P, the bias of the tube seems off. 2V / 200 Ohm is 10 mA.
Also, the grid bias of -2V means grid current will start at an input signal of about +/-1.5 V or so. I would recommend biasing at a more negative grid voltage (-4 V or lower).
Looking at the curves of the 6N1P, the bias of the tube seems off. 2V / 200 Ohm is 10 mA.
Also, the grid bias of -2V means grid current will start at an input signal of about +/-1.5 V or so. I would recommend biasing at a more negative grid voltage (-4 V or lower).
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It’s to get the voltage drop correct, so b+ and b++ wil be around the voltage I need in the amp section
Using the parallel need that the tubes must be very wel selected
Try to use a E810F in triode. Or triode Ec8010
Are nos and beautiful
And good gain
What about the filter cap???
Where are?
Try to use a E810F in triode. Or triode Ec8010
Are nos and beautiful
And good gain
What about the filter cap???
Where are?
Four in parallel i mene 4 triodes 2 tubes per channel
Yeah where’s is the caps…
Going to use these
Yeah where’s is the caps…
Going to use these
Attachments
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Use aresistor or an inductor with suitable DCR to drop the voltage from B+ to B++.
With the 2A3 where the filaments are in ac???
Not necessary
The use of 6n1p in parallel is not a good choice
My opinion
Walter
6N1P tubes can be found on ebay for $10-$20 apiece from sellers in Europe. There's no reason to think the Voshkod "rocket ship" marked tubes are anything other than NOS.
Yes, I don't see any improvement in using parallel tubes when this isn't necessary. The 6N1P has driven output tubes in other designs.
If it were me I would use an ECC40 as driver tube. Better sound.
And why not use the book value for the 2a3: 45V, 60mA, 250V. So you then have 295V on the anode and a B+ of just over 300V. So why not just use a resistor load on the driver tube with the 300V B+available? For me resistor loads always sound the best, just choose a good sounding anode resistor.
It looks like you are over thinking this design. It's really much simpler.
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Any tube type can be "matched".
Pick a type that does what you need for your design.
Duncan Amps PSUD2 is a great tool to plug and play options for the PSU.
When it comes to tubes like the 2A3, I don't see the point of reinventing the wheel. The greatest brains of our hobby have refined the different solutions. The exciting part is to review them, understand them, and be motivated to build one.
So it seems this is a project motivated by parts that are already available. Can you tell us more about those? What exactly do you have, what are the specs of these parts? This would be useful to come up with a reasonable design.