They're just not impressive and odd looking. I admit that having something a bit weird is an attraction. For example, a small open baffle pair in the shape of and painted like Cretaceous ammonites (I have a Medieval style unique illuminated map of Cretaceous Europe above the fireplace, so the Ammonite Screamers would fit right in!!)If you need to move them around, a small box with 3” drivers would be a good choice.
SB Acoustics SB10PGC21-4 would provide enough sound for all genres.
They're just not impressive and odd looking. I admit that having something a bit weird is an attraction. For example, a small open baffle pair in the shape of and painted like Cretaceous ammonites (I have a Medieval style unique illuminated map of Cretaceous Europe above the fireplace, so the Ammonite Screamers would fit right in!!)
Hi RuralHermit,
If you want just a square box, the CHN50P is a good choice.
If it is a tall type, it occupies a small area.
I plan to change from FOSTEX FF85WK+BH to MarkAudio CHN50P+TQWT for TV.
If I use it for a while and don't like it, there will be no change.
If I use it for a while and don't like it, there will be no change.
- nandappe
- Replies: 13
- Forum: Full Range
I've been tempted by this TQWT http://eco-speaker.sblo.jp/article/189177866.html but am unsure how to determine whether it will work well with particular drivers. 154 xs 216 mm footprint (6 x 8.5 inches), which can fit almost anywhere. Driver is 790 mm high (31 inches), perfect height. And has the odd cool look to some extent.The tall boxes use quarterwave resoances to extend LFs.
am unsure how to determine whether it will work well with particular drivers
You model the line.
dave
Hmm, max flat Fb/p = 0.42^72.55*0.584^-0.96 = ~51 Hz, so at a glance, yes, but will be very inefficient below Fs without significant room boundary loading to the point of best to experiment with a shorter vent and/or critically damping it.I've been tempted by this TQWT http://eco-speaker.sblo.jp/article/189177866.html but am unsure how to determine whether it will work well with particular drivers. 154 xs 216 mm footprint (6 x 8.5 inches), which can fit almost anywhere. Driver is 790 mm high (31 inches), perfect height. And has the odd cool look to some extent.
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Thanks. I figured experimentation would be in order.Hmm, max flat Fb/p = 0.42^72.55*0.584^-0.96 = ~51 Hz, so at a glance, yes, but will be very inefficient below Fs without significant room boundary loading to the point of best to experiment with a shorter vent and/or critically damping it.
DDVP-10-ML is my design.
Any of Mark Audio's 4” can be used to its full potential.
Any of Mark Audio's 4” can be used to its full potential.
Thank you. Which have you liked best? The Alpair 7 MS has that negative camber cone, which seems to make sense, but I have no way of testing whether any real difference shows up in the off-axis aspect, such as a wider "sweet spot." Have you assembled any with removable back or side, even temporarily? Being able to change duct length and fill could prove extremely useful. How's the baby one, the DDVP-08 I believe? Might well be a bit too near field. We listen at about 3 m, never terribly loud, in a fairly compact room. Thanks again!DDVP-10-ML is my design.
Any of Mark Audio's 4” can be used to its full potential.
Hi RuralHermit,
If you prioritize sound quality, MAOP7 is the best choice. If you focus on cost performance, Pluvia7HD is a great option. If you want to keep costs low, CHR70.3 is suitable, and if you prioritize lively sound, CHN719 is a good pick.
Alpair7MS has a characteristic mid-high range that I find unappealing, and its off-axis performance is not significantly different from other models.
For assembly, first, temporarily fix the side panels and conduct a test listening session to adjust the duct length and sound-absorbing material. Once finalized, proceed with bonding.
Incidentally, the duct also serves as a sound-absorbing element (mass-loaded), so if you shorten it, increase the amount of sound-absorbing material accordingly.
I recommend DDVP-10-ML over 08-ML, as it offers better balance.
If you prioritize sound quality, MAOP7 is the best choice. If you focus on cost performance, Pluvia7HD is a great option. If you want to keep costs low, CHR70.3 is suitable, and if you prioritize lively sound, CHN719 is a good pick.
Alpair7MS has a characteristic mid-high range that I find unappealing, and its off-axis performance is not significantly different from other models.
For assembly, first, temporarily fix the side panels and conduct a test listening session to adjust the duct length and sound-absorbing material. Once finalized, proceed with bonding.
Incidentally, the duct also serves as a sound-absorbing element (mass-loaded), so if you shorten it, increase the amount of sound-absorbing material accordingly.
I recommend DDVP-10-ML over 08-ML, as it offers better balance.
Probably just my reduced HF hearing, so-so headset and ?? quality DTS audio control panel, but the CHN719 was the only one with a realistic music/vocals balance, clarity ('best' overall of the bunch for mids duty?) with all the others having near enough identical musical presentation with varying muffled vocals.
I've got a pair of 7ms too and I prefer the pluvia 7.2HD.Thanks much. I've been wondering about the Alpair 7 MS and the Pluvia. Everything seems right about them. The 7MSnegative camber cone profile seems rather clever, if it does anything. I'll mock up the two Pensils, see how they'd actually fit in my room. Investigate those more thoroughly. If I like them a lot, I'll do FrugalHorns for my dad. He's using a 1980s B&O system that's warm and fuzzy, completely inoffensive, but like drinking flat soda without my glasses. Part of why my listening and lounging room is in the basement, away from those B&O playing tired old classical music and the news about 30% louder than I can handle!
In my opinion, the off axis is better on the pluvias as they have more treble to begin with and sound more open to me. I'd go with the pluvias and then it would be more affordable if you want to add more speakers too
Probably just my reduced HF hearing, so-so headset and ?? quality DTS audio control panel, but the CHN719 was the only one with a realistic music/vocals balance, clarity ('best' overall of the bunch for mids duty?) with all the others having near enough identical musical presentation with varying muffled vocals.
Hi GM,
CHN719 has good clarity and attack sound, but the delicacy of string instruments is not as good.
The recent air recordings seem to have improved in freshness and clarity, thanks to the disposal of much of the audio equipment last spring.
The power supply for recording equipment was also changed to a GaN power supply.
I am interested to know about your sound setup for these air recordings. Not so I can criticize it, but so I can learn and possibly emulate.
Hi cogitech,
I direct messaged you.
Attachments
This is precisely what I was wondering. The negative camber sounds like a great idea. But there you go. I'm going to give your videos (thank you) a careful listening, perhaps engage my partner in a listening session with my two systems and headphones. I could spring for the MAOP. It's important - my main speakers are beginning to annoy me. Some kind of boom and oddness in the low end. Am wondering whether it's a mismatch between my HTA100 and the RT55 Polks. I'm ready to move up, regardless. I took my desktop speakers up for my dad to try, so now I need to build him something. Piano and orchestral, no top end required. That will be fun! Thanks so muchAlpair7MS has a characteristic mid-high range that I find unappealing, and its off-axis performance is not significantly different from other models.
I am losing my treble hearing with age, but I can tell the difference because the presence or absence of treble affects the mid-tones as well.
I feel that sound pressure up to around 12 kHz is necessary.
I feel that sound pressure up to around 12 kHz is necessary.
For me the cut-off is somewhere between 13.5k and 14k. If I make 14k loud enough I can hear it. Oddly enough, this is the approximate frequency of my tinnitus.
So many people are focused on super-tweeters and ensuring flat response to 20k, or even 30k. I never understand that. How much music is up there that I am missing? Even my 20-something daughters only get up to around 16k (and they hate it when I test those frequencies).
I have the same feeling of puzzlement when I do bass tests at 20-30Hz. Perhaps most relevant for movies?
So many people are focused on super-tweeters and ensuring flat response to 20k, or even 30k. I never understand that. How much music is up there that I am missing? Even my 20-something daughters only get up to around 16k (and they hate it when I test those frequencies).
I have the same feeling of puzzlement when I do bass tests at 20-30Hz. Perhaps most relevant for movies?
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My dad's hearing cuts out at most at 12 kHz. Maybe quite a bit lower - he can't hear incredibly annoying high pitches! He's 93. The issue for his computer speakers is that he needs loud, so will also take an amplifier that will fit in his space. I might pull the HiVi B3N out of my tube speakers and put in a higher quality amp, set up his rig with something small for the HiVi and use an EQ app to get them sounding good enough.No top end? Old age hearing? Otherwise need at least flat to 16 kHz.
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