Hello everyone I would like to build an OTHORN subwoofer and I saw that the Beyma 18SW1600ND was one of the compatible drivers. Well those drivers are no longer in production, But Beyma tells me they have a substitute that should work, the 18LEX1600ND.
Now my question is how could I tell if this drive is really compatible with the OTHORN sub design? Any help or suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Now my question is how could I tell if this drive is really compatible with the OTHORN sub design? Any help or suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Attachments
Last edited:
Look for the thread on that design and substitute the TS parameters in the horn response info shared to take a peek. It’s really intersting to compare and. Contrast things and observe how the damping/suspension stiffness (and motorforce) can make or break some of those ‘high compression’ horn shaped resonators
Thanks for taking time to reply. I don't anything about hornresp. I guess I have to download it and enter and compare those parameters?
Greets!Hello everyone I would build like to build a OTHORN subwoofer and I saw that the Beyma 18SW1600ND was one of the compatible drives. Well those drives are no longer in production, but Beyma tells me they have a substitute that should work, the 18LEX1600ND.
Now my question is how could I tell if this drive is really compatible with the OTHORN sub design? Any help or suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Good question! During a tour of Altec's plant in '68 I asked what all did they test for and told +/- 10 % reference efficiency (eff/n0), which seemed kind of interesting since I knew their published Fs specs were often way off even after prosound apps break-in!
Fast forward several years and learning a bunch more speaker design theory and it became obvious: Thiele Small parameters equations – How each one affects the others
n0 is a percentage, showing how efficient the driver is at converting an electrical signal to an acoustical one. As a result, the bigger the number, the greater the reference sound pressure level.
n0 = (9.7822 * 10-10 * Vas * Fs3) / Qes
- n0 above is a ratio, not a percentage. To make it a percentage multiply by 100.
- Vas is in liters.
- Fs in Hz.
Last edited:
How do i make use of all info that he posted in that original thread? Also most of what I saw there was script for akabak. and and few screen shots of hornresp.Look for the thread on that design and substitute the TS parameters in the horn response info shared to take a peek. It’s really intersting to compare and. Contrast things and observe how the damping/suspension stiffness (and motorforce) can make or break some of those ‘high compression’ horn shaped resonators
So am I correct in interpreting this as meaniing that this driver will work okay in the othorn sub?
Seems it will excite the resonances in the ‘horn’ but is a bit reluctant to do much of the work in between?
Motor force issue or its inability to play the lowest frequencies (Fb of 30hz) in such a small initial crossectional area ? (It bulges up near 40 hz instead)
*Just observing, I’m not sure exactly how this works *
Motor force issue or its inability to play the lowest frequencies (Fb of 30hz) in such a small initial crossectional area ? (It bulges up near 40 hz instead)
*Just observing, I’m not sure exactly how this works *
Last edited:
Definitely under damped, but +/- 3 dB b4 the inexpensive digital age use to be considered quite good.
Thanks for the honest answer. I guess I have to look for a different driver that would be available in my country.I would not build it. It needs too much EQ for me.
Thanks for taking the reply. I guess this is another no then. This driver will not work ok with this box
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- How to know if a sub driver would work with a specific sub design?