• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

What tube amp to build

It can cost from $50 upwards the sky is the limit.
If you want good quality 40W push pull (Lundahl), it would cost roughly $500 for the pair. But thats not best quality, only good quality.
Go for asians and get two for $50.
Remember, with just a normal quality tube amp with 40W your right in the range to miss all that tube excitement a high efficiency speaker could give with a low powered, simple tube amp and may not be able to made up for that loss of sparkle. You will end with an amp that may cost you much more, and still not excellent enough for high quality listening pleasure.
 
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How expensive does iron get for higher watts per channel?
Say 20 to 40 WPC. Still has to be cheaper than buying a commercial amp.

That sort of power falls squarely in "El Cheapo Grande" (ECG) range. PP designs, which ECG is, frequently employ global NFB loops and ECG does employ such a loop. For reasons of avoiding core saturation, the O/P "iron" has to provide power handling capability above the design's full power O/P.

Edcor's product has a reputation for being a solid, if unspectacular performer, and an all around good value. This Edcor model will be fine in a 7591 based ECG or a Mullard style circuit employing Russian 6Π3C-E (6p3s-e) O/P tubes. FWIW, the tube sold by New Sensor as a 5881 is 6Π3C-E and it's pretty darned good.
 
I would definitely consider a loudspeaker kit from DIYSG, though covid has disrupted their kit inventory supply chain.

Both the Vortex-12 and Vortex-15 offer high sensitivity, constant directivity and point source dispersion. Either can be build as ported designs for full acoustic bandwidth. The frequency response measurements of these speakers (esp the 15) is superb.

Doing so would allow you to consider the vast majority of tube amplifier builds, regardless of topology.

I used a modified ST-70 with Klipsch Fortes for years. It was the bug that bit me. I have subsequently built many of the DIYSG speaker kits. Currently building the Helix Dome MTM (92dB/W/M) which turns out is tube friendly due to its flat impedance (wasn’t aware at the time of purchase). I have a Vortex-15 in the build queue after that.
 
It looks like the Vortex ones are, at least for a while, no longer offered.

"I believe only 2 people ordered the Vortex-12's in the 1.5 years they were on the site. I'll likely put them back up at some point but I probably need to document them better with a better explanation on why they were made up and what makes them good."

They still have several other offerings that look quite interesting though. As soon as the supply chain gets moving at speed again.
 
It looks like the Vortex ones are, at least for a while, no longer offered.

Hopefully it will only be temporary. There’s a backstory and the short version of it is the guys who cut flat packs for DIYSG are/were prioritizing covid-related hospital work over non-essential clients. Erich is reserving the drivers for when he can make flatpacks available. Other supply-chain reasons too but you get the idea.
 
"I am thinking of building a tube power amp"

hi Jeff429.
If you are going to build with vacuum tubes go Single-ended,which by extension mate well with Full-range Drivers.
The sound of a simple SE EL84 amp driving a pair of Goodmans Axiom80s.....set me on a journey of record buying that needs to stop.
All the best with your exploits.
 
Я рекомендую этот вариант - Класс А
 

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Jeff,
A straight forward and fairly simple amp is the Tubelab SPP (Tubelab forum on this site and circuit board available from Tubelab.com). ~15wpc from one 5AR4, four EL84s and two 12AT7s. If you are in the USA a complete set of "iron" is available from Edcor for about 200 bucks.

Steve
Have built different versions with push pull el 84, and Tubelab's el 84 pp version is the best! Built mine with point to point soldering, and it was a good result. Can really recommend this amplifier. I used Hammond 1650E output transformers...
 
This is really nice project,
T
 
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For me it comes down to the availability of ECL86 tubes. If you are sitting on a stash of them, all well and good. The EL84, 12AT7 and GZ34 used in the Tubelab SPP are all still in production. GZ34s can be a bit pricey but EL84s and 12AT7s are relatively inexpensive. The SPP can be built with solid state rectification, just use a power transformer with a 275-0-275 secondary. I've built two SPPs on Tubelab boards and two hand-wired mono amps. All used Hammond 1650F OPTs and sounded very good.
 
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the amplifier needs to be 30-50 watts, but not so that it screams at full power, but so that at 1-3-5 watts it cleanly plays the entire spectrum of a musical composition with a THD of 0.08%
 

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