I will send you a PM with a link when I find it. The exponential horn cutoff frequency is given (I think I used 300 Hz) and the horn as is played down to 290 Hz. So if you keep the cutoff frequency, you can just make the the cells longer and it would still fit. Otherwise you would have to start from scratch. The most difficult part is the adaptor, it needed a few test prints to make it fit.
Anyone brave enough to deal with my chaotic 3D project is welcome to download it here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gFQqIGuJ0r1W4EBtThNX68QMKK6geWf2/view?usp=sharing
A friend of mine helped me make the changes. These will be test printed a.s.a.p!
Here's an improved version of the individual cells:
Here's an improved version of the individual cells:
Did anyone test pelanjs baby horn? I am printing it right now and am very excited…
Cheers
F
Cheers
F
I used this one https://sica.it/prodotto/cd-83-26-380/. I like plastic diaphragms or Ti with plastic surround. All Ti diaphragms were always slightly harsh - but that could be usually easily EQd out with a DSP.
I've got old plywood 1" Smith Horn back at my house - baby would aesthetically match better than multi-cell - Smith horn had some lobes - very high vertical window - great sound overall even it not considered good in these days from a technical standpoint.. Smith horn probably great for mono rig.
Hi!
It's been a while since I visited this forum. The system looks like this at the moment and I'm very please with the performance of the multicells. It's been tested at 4-5 events already and the people have loved it.
Still haven't made any "feet" for them. Want to make an adjustable stand so the angle can be adapted to different venues.
The waffle pattern reinforcement worked as intended and the second horn got much more uniform cells.
It's been a while since I visited this forum. The system looks like this at the moment and I'm very please with the performance of the multicells. It's been tested at 4-5 events already and the people have loved it.
Still haven't made any "feet" for them. Want to make an adjustable stand so the angle can be adapted to different venues.
The waffle pattern reinforcement worked as intended and the second horn got much more uniform cells.
Hi Aftonklubben,
would you be so kind to share your 3d files? i found the original model on thingiverse and then found my way over here, now i am also interested to see your mods on that.
also, did you do any measurements with your multicells? i saw the driver you are using in another thread and am curious on how high up that horn will play, and how the hf roll off is looking.
thanks, Julius
would you be so kind to share your 3d files? i found the original model on thingiverse and then found my way over here, now i am also interested to see your mods on that.
also, did you do any measurements with your multicells? i saw the driver you are using in another thread and am curious on how high up that horn will play, and how the hf roll off is looking.
thanks, Julius
Haven't done any measurements yet. But compared to using a standard horn, the highest frequencies are almost gone while high melodies are really well represented. I don't suffer from it since the RCF horns work where the multicells don't. I really see why these multicells are often used with supertweeters! It depends what sound you like. Just picked up some Beyma FD350 3 way crossovers and all the other parts needed so looking to build a pair of 816s with multicells out of plywood and some supertweeters. I've got pairs of Beyma 650ti, SMC60 and another pair of RCF 2" drivers to try wich one works best but they should be pretty equal.
Any recommendations what supertweeter would be a good value for money and work well in this system?
Any recommendations what supertweeter would be a good value for money and work well in this system?
Hopping into this thread as I've been dreaming of multicells for almost a year.
@pelanj I looove your model!
I could 3d print however it looks like a 100+ hours print time I am thinking if laser cut plywod then bending and gluing them, or maybe even CNC routing solid parts out of 12mm MDF.
CNC feels like the most attractive option because the horn would have zero resonances, although it would be heavy as hell i think.
Laser cut plywood feels like the quickest and cheapest way but might be a pain to glue the four faces together and keep them in tension while they dry.
Has anyone tried other methods? What are peoples opinions/ ideas/ advice on it?
@pelanj I looove your model!
I could 3d print however it looks like a 100+ hours print time I am thinking if laser cut plywod then bending and gluing them, or maybe even CNC routing solid parts out of 12mm MDF.
CNC feels like the most attractive option because the horn would have zero resonances, although it would be heavy as hell i think.
Laser cut plywood feels like the quickest and cheapest way but might be a pain to glue the four faces together and keep them in tension while they dry.
Has anyone tried other methods? What are peoples opinions/ ideas/ advice on it?
Plywood laser cutting basically is possible with nowaday's machinery. As far as the cuts are perpendicular to the wood surface at least. You'd need 45° angular cuts along the curves, and perpendicular cuts at the straight ends. Does a laser machine manage this?
Best regards!
Best regards!
Planning to do a hybrid model with 3D printed driver adaptor and cells in plywood.
But I go in to this project well aware that it'll be super tricky.
My plan is to use a cnc router for all the cell walls and then make a sturdy piece of wood in the right shape to fill the inside of one cell, that piece will be used for stability when glueing the 4 pieces together.
But I go in to this project well aware that it'll be super tricky.
My plan is to use a cnc router for all the cell walls and then make a sturdy piece of wood in the right shape to fill the inside of one cell, that piece will be used for stability when glueing the 4 pieces together.
Hi you all. I just want to give my admire to all the work that has been put into this. Really nice to see now 15!! years later. Thank you!
In my opinion, the horn was designed to work best 300-3000 Hz. What have you experienced?
/Petter
In my opinion, the horn was designed to work best 300-3000 Hz. What have you experienced?
/Petter
Sure! Why not now that it's a ~mature endevour.
I made a lot of cardboard and balsa models growing up, so did speakers, horns, multicells the same way except used fiberglassing epoxy to make them very rigid with many decades old Ga. Pine board scraps for the motor board (baffle).