Like I said, 4.7 uF/25V, may need higher volts if amp is high powered, but for most use 25 or 35 is okay...and that depends on the shop having that voltage in stock!
It is cheap, 2 Rupees at most, so not worth paying shipment, at least for me as I am only 4 km from the market here...
Where are you in India?
It is cheap, 2 Rupees at most, so not worth paying shipment, at least for me as I am only 4 km from the market here...
Where are you in India?
What parameters do i need and can they be found by measurements?
I mean if i am going as far as to remake them, i might as well full send it
Simply find a shop selling speakers, tell him box for 6" or whatever drivers...they have ready stock, or can get at short notice.
They will usually have ready amplifiers for sale, starting about 800 Rupees, FM module built in, ask for 4440 or 2030 amp, enough for these drivers.
Ask around, railway station area or main market, or a repair technician, they will know the shops.
I bought Philips drivers, gave them to a friend who makes speakers, he said you want tweeters?
I said yes, they were like 40 Rupees each...
Voila...take them after one hour...he had ready box, wired and fitted tweters as well.
Same thing with oval speakers from car scrap market (bit of money wasted), I did all sorts of sketches, and he had ready boxes, said you will fit or my man?
So I got the boxes, don't remember price, and he gave me chip board screws and wire as well.
Took me half an hour, grilles are to be purchased...
They will usually have ready amplifiers for sale, starting about 800 Rupees, FM module built in, ask for 4440 or 2030 amp, enough for these drivers.
Ask around, railway station area or main market, or a repair technician, they will know the shops.
I bought Philips drivers, gave them to a friend who makes speakers, he said you want tweeters?
I said yes, they were like 40 Rupees each...
Voila...take them after one hour...he had ready box, wired and fitted tweters as well.
Same thing with oval speakers from car scrap market (bit of money wasted), I did all sorts of sketches, and he had ready boxes, said you will fit or my man?
So I got the boxes, don't remember price, and he gave me chip board screws and wire as well.
Took me half an hour, grilles are to be purchased...
Speaker boxes with tweeters and labor were about 600 some 5 years back for a pair. Tweeters were 40 each.
At that price, not worth the hassle of buying board, getting it cut, inhaling dust, fitting and painting. And transporting all of it around.
Many furniture factories in Ulhasnagar may do it, but for one pair...don't bother.
At that price, not worth the hassle of buying board, getting it cut, inhaling dust, fitting and painting. And transporting all of it around.
Many furniture factories in Ulhasnagar may do it, but for one pair...don't bother.
Since this is a piezo tweeter, I strongly recommend connecting a 22 ohm resistor in parallel with the tweeter and a 4.7 uF film cap in series with the resistor/tweeter combination.
The 22 ohm parallel resistor makes the piezo look like a normal moving coil tweeter to the 4.7 uF crossover capacitor.
It appears that you have overlooked my suggestion that this driver was designed specifically to suit a sealed enclosure.
Its mechanical and electrical parameters may make it totally unsuitable for a ported enclosure.
Determining such parameters would require measuring equipment and a consequent outlay of cash that these drivers do not merit.
If you are interested in what these parameters are, then read the following link: https://www.monacor.com/magazine/th...he system is based on circuit analysis theory.
If the sound of the sealed enclosure is not to your liking you can subsequently cut a port opening, or vent, in the rear panel of the enclosure.
A narrow vent measuring 9" x 1" in a 1 cu ft enclosure will give a 'broad tuning' to accommodate the typical free air resonance frequency of a Philips driver such as yours.
You can even experiment further by:
A narrow vent measuring 9" x 1" in a 1 cu ft enclosure will give a 'broad tuning' to accommodate the typical free air resonance frequency of a Philips driver such as yours.
You can even experiment further by:
- Trapping wool speaker felt within the opening to form a resistive vent and thus emulate aperiodic loading.
- Plugging the opening partially with wood sections to incrementally decrease the vent length and so alter the 'tuning'.
That you got a result from a ported box calculator tells me you used the parameters (the driver resonance and compliance numbers). These are the ones Galu is referring to.
Originally it was made for an aperiodic cabinet of 9L i read on a (members only) dutch form. Drill a few holes in the back and cover it from the inside with felt they say. This one you have was originall not a high q driver like the AD7060, but a low q (for that time) driver like the AD7062, the difference would be the harder surrounds and spider they say. It was mainly used in cardoors (Toyota's from the 1970's) and tv sets in small spaces with leaks (so aperiodic).
The 7060 was ment for sealed, and is more like the typical Philips fullrange drivers of that time like the infamous 9710.
The 7060 was ment for sealed, and is more like the typical Philips fullrange drivers of that time like the infamous 9710.
@waxx Earlier you said the 2415 257 48008 was close to the AD7062/M in specs.
I checked the AD 7062/M specs at the time, and here's what the Philips catalogue says about it:
"For high fidelity reproduction in sealed acoustic enclosures. Maximum enclosure volume 7 litres."
That particular 7" model is said to have "a paper dual cone and a rubber surround".
At the beginning of the thread, when I looked at Srimp's photograph, it appeared to me that his driver has a paper or fabric surround.
Consequently I reckoned that Srimp's driver was akin to the AD7063/M which has a "textile" surround.
That particular driver is specified for "high fidelity reproduction in sealed acoustic enclosures. Maximum enclosure volume 25 litres."
So, for my own peace of mind I must ask @Srimp, has your driver got a rubber or a textile surround?
I checked the AD 7062/M specs at the time, and here's what the Philips catalogue says about it:
"For high fidelity reproduction in sealed acoustic enclosures. Maximum enclosure volume 7 litres."
That particular 7" model is said to have "a paper dual cone and a rubber surround".
At the beginning of the thread, when I looked at Srimp's photograph, it appeared to me that his driver has a paper or fabric surround.
Consequently I reckoned that Srimp's driver was akin to the AD7063/M which has a "textile" surround.
That particular driver is specified for "high fidelity reproduction in sealed acoustic enclosures. Maximum enclosure volume 25 litres."
So, for my own peace of mind I must ask @Srimp, has your driver got a rubber or a textile surround?
P.S. For reference, the AD7062/M free air resonance frequency is 45 Hz, while that of the AD7063/M is 60 Hz.
The masses can be compared: 0.68 kg for the AD7062/M and 0.745 kg for the AD7063/M.
The masses can be compared: 0.68 kg for the AD7062/M and 0.745 kg for the AD7063/M.
in my copy of the handbook for Philips speakers from ("Phlips Luidspreker Behuizingen voor Zelfbouw" from 1970) says that Philips AD7092 had a rubber surround, not paper like the AD7060 or AD7061. The book says it need an acoustic suspension box of 9L. But i repeat what many dutch diy people did with this speaker, they drilled holes in the back of that box with felt (vilt in dutch) glued to it to have a better bass trough an aperiodic porting.
I know this driver from a tv set of my parents where it was also not in a selaed chamber (i repaired that set with my father (an electronic engineer) a few times in my youth. I've never seen real T/S parameters of the driver nor had measurement gear when i had the driver from the old tv of my parents. That tv and driver are in the trash 30 years or so now.
And as the driver was used in doors of many Toyota cars from the 70's as OEM driver with the numbers on the picture of the OP, i guess that is what it was ment for. Those doors were also not sealed, they had many gaps. Other car brands also used it in that period.
I know this driver from a tv set of my parents where it was also not in a selaed chamber (i repaired that set with my father (an electronic engineer) a few times in my youth. I've never seen real T/S parameters of the driver nor had measurement gear when i had the driver from the old tv of my parents. That tv and driver are in the trash 30 years or so now.
And as the driver was used in doors of many Toyota cars from the 70's as OEM driver with the numbers on the picture of the OP, i guess that is what it was ment for. Those doors were also not sealed, they had many gaps. Other car brands also used it in that period.
According to my Philips catalogue:
However, I second the use of an enclosure that incorporates what Gilbert Briggs termed a "distributed port", i.e., a series of narrow slots or small holes in the back panel of the enclosure, lined internally with soft cloth to provide extra acoustic resistance.
In fact, in post #30, I described an alternative method of approximating aperiodic loading, which is to use a single, rectangular resistive vent.
Just for interest, I attach the old Wharfedale plans for a 1 cu ft enclosure to suit their 8" drivers of the day.
- If the octagonal 7" driver has a rubber surround then it is suited to a small sealed enclosure (7 litres max).
- If it has a textile surround then it is suited to a larger sealed enclosure (25 litres max).
However, I second the use of an enclosure that incorporates what Gilbert Briggs termed a "distributed port", i.e., a series of narrow slots or small holes in the back panel of the enclosure, lined internally with soft cloth to provide extra acoustic resistance.
In fact, in post #30, I described an alternative method of approximating aperiodic loading, which is to use a single, rectangular resistive vent.
Just for interest, I attach the old Wharfedale plans for a 1 cu ft enclosure to suit their 8" drivers of the day.
Attachments
Its neither actally it feels more like paper. Ti could be textile but examining the torn part it definitely looks like paper. Its definitely not rubber tho.
Galu's circuit with resistor may account for the one found in the box.
Srimp, I think he means the ring at the edge of the cone, see this:
https://www.amazon.in/fosa-Speaker-Surround-10inch-Loudspeaker/dp/B07FLTGJQ8
That is just an example. No ties to sellers
Srimp, I think he means the ring at the edge of the cone, see this:
https://www.amazon.in/fosa-Speaker-Surround-10inch-Loudspeaker/dp/B07FLTGJQ8
That is just an example. No ties to sellers
Yes when i examine the torn part of the surround it looks like paper
