Hi Mooly,
I have no way checking the connection condition?
During searching a connecting cable from my old stock I found a JVC radio set, consisting radio, cd player and cassette player. Please refer to attached photos
To my surprise the cd player still works with good quality of sound. The JVC radio set is >25 years old.
I'm now searching how to connect the cd player to my Denon HiFi amplifier for testing
I have no way checking the connection condition?
During searching a connecting cable from my old stock I found a JVC radio set, consisting radio, cd player and cassette player. Please refer to attached photos
To my surprise the cd player still works with good quality of sound. The JVC radio set is >25 years old.
I'm now searching how to connect the cd player to my Denon HiFi amplifier for testing
Those systems all get their power from the main amp unit. You would have to either get a service manual to see how it connects or just open the player part up and locate the audio. The signal and audio grounds will be on that ribbon somewhere.
OK. I'll make another search on my old stuffs. I suppose its manual still somewhere in my storage room for old stuffs.
I have tried connecting its loudspeark cables to Denon Amplifier In Ports. It works but the sound quality is not good. The switch selection on Denon Amplifier is "In Pro Logic Phono". For CD is 'In Pro Logic CD"
A common way to get a 'Line Out' signal is to connect to the volume control. That is unless the volume control is controlling a VCA.
Getting inside some of these 'combo's' for proper access can be quite a task. I don't think the sound quality would be excellent though.
Getting inside some of these 'combo's' for proper access can be quite a task. I don't think the sound quality would be excellent though.
Just for a second, back to the unlucky ONKYO CD player.
I may try to save a few from hitting the dump too early:
One of the main cause for problems with older units are the rubber belts getting hard. This Onkyo had such a belt. In this case the transport motor can not transmit the high torque that is needed in the first stage of opening (separating the platter magnet) and, even more important, when closing. It needs a final push to lock in the play position.
The symptoms are that the player sometimes doesn't open, often with a CD stuck inside. If it closes, it doesn't start from time to time. Just like this ONKYO. It is unusual to find a defective laser inside such a player with a belt problem. The laser only works in the end position which is not reached.
This one might have been quite healty, except for a 5 Cent rubber belt. Then the owner repaired it until it was completely dead. Some people just don't have the talent for certain things. I can't sing for example.
I have a large set of such rubber belts from China. Cost was about 5$. Repaired a dozen CD player in the last years. No laser needed in most cases. If so, better take a new drive, but this may lead to other problems, like spindle height and platter size. You need some talent. In another life I repaired watches...
I may try to save a few from hitting the dump too early:
One of the main cause for problems with older units are the rubber belts getting hard. This Onkyo had such a belt. In this case the transport motor can not transmit the high torque that is needed in the first stage of opening (separating the platter magnet) and, even more important, when closing. It needs a final push to lock in the play position.
The symptoms are that the player sometimes doesn't open, often with a CD stuck inside. If it closes, it doesn't start from time to time. Just like this ONKYO. It is unusual to find a defective laser inside such a player with a belt problem. The laser only works in the end position which is not reached.
This one might have been quite healty, except for a 5 Cent rubber belt. Then the owner repaired it until it was completely dead. Some people just don't have the talent for certain things. I can't sing for example.
I have a large set of such rubber belts from China. Cost was about 5$. Repaired a dozen CD player in the last years. No laser needed in most cases. If so, better take a new drive, but this may lead to other problems, like spindle height and platter size. You need some talent. In another life I repaired watches...
Hi Mister Audio and Turbowatch2,
Lot of thanks for your advice. What I have done and will do here is SOLELY for learning. When I was a young guide, I built radio receiver and amplifier on RCA vacuum tubes. It was quite interesting.
Lot of thanks for your advice. What I have done and will do here is SOLELY for learning. When I was a young guide, I built radio receiver and amplifier on RCA vacuum tubes. It was quite interesting.
@ satimis
It was not to critizise you, but to share my experience with defective CD players from good brands. So others may be able to repair their CD. I saw your thread to late to help. Sorry.
If anyone is a pro in car repair, the laser is like the Lambda sensor in a car. It is always the first part to be changed, but only very randomly the cause of the problem.
In those cases were the laser is defective, the CD has usually been used a lot in it's life. In most cases you can see that use on the knobs and outer case.
The original laser from Maranz, Onkyo, Teac or the like last quite a long time and seem to have no age related problems. Opposed to that, rubber and lubricant age and may collect dust. So after a mechanical check the digi cam test of the laser is step two if you try a repair. Even lens cleaning is only needed when it was exposed to heavy smoking. You should smell that...
It was not to critizise you, but to share my experience with defective CD players from good brands. So others may be able to repair their CD. I saw your thread to late to help. Sorry.
If anyone is a pro in car repair, the laser is like the Lambda sensor in a car. It is always the first part to be changed, but only very randomly the cause of the problem.
In those cases were the laser is defective, the CD has usually been used a lot in it's life. In most cases you can see that use on the knobs and outer case.
The original laser from Maranz, Onkyo, Teac or the like last quite a long time and seem to have no age related problems. Opposed to that, rubber and lubricant age and may collect dust. So after a mechanical check the digi cam test of the laser is step two if you try a repair. Even lens cleaning is only needed when it was exposed to heavy smoking. You should smell that...
Sorry I'm not going to rescue my defective Onkyo CD player.
What I'm doing is to find a solution connecting PC to my Denon Amplifier. I have digitized all my CDs, about 500 CDs, as digital files on .wav format on PC. I can play them running a Media Player on PC without using CD Player.
I have digitized the CDs on their own folders, examples;
Swan Lake (ballet)
Ballet -> Swan Lake -> CD1 / CD2 etc
William Tell (opera)
Opera -> William Tell -> CD1 / CD2 etc
to play them, just running a Media Player on Terminal
(in my case, Ubuntu Linux 24.04 desktop PC, media player - VLC)
$ vlc /path/to/Ballet/Swan Lake/CD1 or /CD2 /CD3 etc.
I don't need a CD Player
It is very convenient. I can select all folders in ONE command playing music for a long time, without the need to change CDs
PC sound card out connected to "Denon Amplifer IN" works but the sound quality no good. That is what I'm fighting a solution NOW.
Find a way to get the digital data out of your PC. Could be Toslink or Coax. Toslink in most cases is better because it has no galvanic connection to the noisy PC. Then use a DAC to convert it to analog, may it be the DAC in your Denon or an external one if it has none. No need to go expensive. A FiiO Taishan D03K for example is less than 20$. You will not hear any difference to a DAC 10 times the price, as all existing DAC "Sound" is about 1% of speaker sound.
Use a USP sound card to get digital out if you do not find an internal solution and dislike soundcard analog out. There are many cheap Soundblaster cards with optical Toslink out. They all sound identical, don't worry about the quality of the digital output.
Last: Check the data rate of your output, you may not get CD quality if the sound is bad. If you stored it right the stream from a PC should sound identical to a CD or, as some say, even better.
Use a USP sound card to get digital out if you do not find an internal solution and dislike soundcard analog out. There are many cheap Soundblaster cards with optical Toslink out. They all sound identical, don't worry about the quality of the digital output.
Last: Check the data rate of your output, you may not get CD quality if the sound is bad. If you stored it right the stream from a PC should sound identical to a CD or, as some say, even better.
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WARNING / BEWARE
The above is a good simple voltage-divider,
but you must be sure that the speaker output connection uses a COMMON GROUND/NEGATIVE vs that of a bridge-mode amp.
The above is a good simple voltage-divider,
but you must be sure that the speaker output connection uses a COMMON GROUND/NEGATIVE vs that of a bridge-mode amp.
Hi Galu,
Thanks for your advice. I'll purchase one set for testing, if it is availble online.
I suppose its top connectors for connecting Amplifier.
The bottom connectros for connecting the loudspeaker outputs of PC. But the sound output of my PC is only one jack. Is there any connector available ?
Hi all,
Cable used connecting PC and my Denon Amplifier
It works but the sound quality is not good, seemingly little distortion. Selection on amplifier - Phono In
Regards
Cable used connecting PC and my Denon Amplifier
It works but the sound quality is not good, seemingly little distortion. Selection on amplifier - Phono In
Regards
The speaker level to line level converter I suggested was intended to sit between the L & R speaker outputs of your JVC micro system and the L & R line level inputs (auxiliary inputs) of your Denon amplifier so that you could test the CD player.
The bottom connectors go to the speaker outputs of the JVC and the top connectors go to the aux input of the Denon.
From your question, it would appear that I may have misinterpreted your requirements!
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Do you mean that there is noticeable distortion?
Try connecting that cable into the aux (line level) input of the Denon - not the Phono input.
If that doesn't work, report back.
Hi Galu,
Thanks for your advice.
This time, I couldn't make PC sound-out to work on my Denon AVR-2801 Amplify.
I can't find AUX-in on the rear panel. Please see the screenshot attached here
Manual;
https://assets.denon.com/documentmaster/us/avr2801_ownersmanual.pdf
I have tried connecting both "CD IN" and "PHONO IN" ports but there is no sound out from the Amplify. Display Panel-tried "IN CD" and "IN PHONO".
Advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I presumed you were plugging the cable you have illustrated into the PC's 3.5 mm headphone output.
The headphone output will act like a line output and should work into the CD input or other suitable input (not phono) of your Denon.
Sometimes when connecting a PC headphone output to an amplifier input you get a lot of unwanted noise on the signal.
The solution is to connect a 'ground loop isolator' between PC and amp.
Here are a couple of examples (you will have a local supplier):
https://www.inta-audio.com/bumper-ground-loop-isolator-noise-reduction-filter-p7669
https://www.inta-audio.com/bumper-ground-loop-isolator-hum-destroyer-2x-rca-sockets-p18984
The solution is to connect a 'ground loop isolator' between PC and amp.
Here are a couple of examples (you will have a local supplier):
https://www.inta-audio.com/bumper-ground-loop-isolator-noise-reduction-filter-p7669
https://www.inta-audio.com/bumper-ground-loop-isolator-hum-destroyer-2x-rca-sockets-p18984
Yes.
I use this port connecting PC loudspeakers. The PC loudspeaker works without problem.
On my post #3 above I connected the cable to the CD input of Denon. It worked without problem. But this time Denon didn't work, without sound. The only difference is that I haven't connected the subwoofer to Denon but there was no sound. I have tried both CD IN and Phono IN. It is very strange to me. There are many switches on the Denon Amplify.