Those are quiet ok, not studio monitor quality, but better than most.... But as you can see the bass response measured free field (like with the NFS here) drops down because these speakers were designed to be plase close to a wall. It counts on the wall loading to level the bass right. This is also how the historic speaker was (my father has those for +/- 50 years now with no faults). You can use them freestanding if you add a subwoofer below 100Hz off course.
source and more data & graphs: https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/wharfedale_super_linton/
roboDNA: You asked about mounting the 2 AWG cable I recommended to you and here is an example.
Note that there is colored shrink wrap around the ends so that no bare metal can touch any part of the neighboring post/wire.
Have been vocal about the advantage of 2-gauge wire only because it is so great an improvement. Give it a try and you will see.
Oh, and is that some dog hair that slipped in? Wouldn't be surprised...
Note that there is colored shrink wrap around the ends so that no bare metal can touch any part of the neighboring post/wire.
Have been vocal about the advantage of 2-gauge wire only because it is so great an improvement. Give it a try and you will see.
Oh, and is that some dog hair that slipped in? Wouldn't be surprised...
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It depends on how close your speaker is to the wall, and on the type of wall and size of the room, but it can be +10dB on the highest peaks. Stone walls or other solid walls give the best gain, flimsy drywall the least.
These speakers were back in the days mostly hang from the wall, and often relative high. up (top 20cm from ceiling is what my father did) pointing to the seating position. I would keep them 5cm from the wall to start and measure if you can, but surely listen and movee the speaker a bit until you found the right position. Measuring it always is better of course, but listening is always the final judgement for me.
These speakers were back in the days mostly hang from the wall, and often relative high. up (top 20cm from ceiling is what my father did) pointing to the seating position. I would keep them 5cm from the wall to start and measure if you can, but surely listen and movee the speaker a bit until you found the right position. Measuring it always is better of course, but listening is always the final judgement for me.
@Mulburg the stores I spoke to are selling them quicker than they can order them. ( multiple stores told me the same thing ) I bought their last pair and they just got stock a couple of days ago. The guy said there is no shortage but they got caught a bit off-guard with demand. Maybe they were just fantastic sales people at each store putting the pressure on me to buy😉 It worked.
I'll let you know how they sound with my F5m when it's done. My speakers have already shipped and I should have the amp done in the next week or two. Apparently the 'promo' deal is over at the end of December but not sure if it will go up in price or if it was a fake-out promo.
I'll let you know how they sound with my F5m when it's done. My speakers have already shipped and I should have the amp done in the next week or two. Apparently the 'promo' deal is over at the end of December but not sure if it will go up in price or if it was a fake-out promo.
Received the Super Lintons today. They seem to be very high quality including the stands.
Does anyone have recommendations on how I should break them in? ( eg. types of music, volume levels, number of hours to break in etc )
Also, I found a Techniques SA-GX303 amp in my storage and thought maybe I could use it to test my speakers since I'm not finished my F5m build yet. It's 85W 8ohm ClassA+. The Super Lintons are 6ohm. Should I wait for my F5m to break them in or no difference? ( not sure if the 8ohm amp can be hard on the speakers )
Does anyone have recommendations on how I should break them in? ( eg. types of music, volume levels, number of hours to break in etc )
Also, I found a Techniques SA-GX303 amp in my storage and thought maybe I could use it to test my speakers since I'm not finished my F5m build yet. It's 85W 8ohm ClassA+. The Super Lintons are 6ohm. Should I wait for my F5m to break them in or no difference? ( not sure if the 8ohm amp can be hard on the speakers )
Just make sure the Technics is working perfectly, otherwise it will generate DC and ruin your new speakers. Try them with other speakers that are not important or measure with a multimeter = 0 volts on each speaker output.
I would just avoid repetitive EDM at a high levels for the first 50-100 hours. Just play your favorite music at moderate levels.
Sure, as long as it's working ok. You have an old pair of speakers to test it first, before hooking it up to the Lintons? I'd be tempted to check the outputs for DC before hooking it up to anything.
jeff
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The amp will deliver about 50% more power into a 6 Ohm load rather than an 8 Ohm load. You have some headroom, but don't overdrive the tone controls, try everything FLAT and the speaker won't suffer.
If I understand correctly, I'll test the speaker outputs to ensure there is no DC voltage bias, with no source connected. ( under 10mV ) Should I then connect a source and connect an oscilloscope to the speaker outputs to ensure there is no clipping or distortion?
If everything goes well, I'll ensure the amp's eq/tone controls are set to '0' or flat and keep the volume under 50%.
If everything goes well, I'll ensure the amp's eq/tone controls are set to '0' or flat and keep the volume under 50%.
If you have an oscilloscope and a signal generator (you can use a PC and Audacity instead) it would be ideal to check if the signal is correct, but it is not necessary if the amp has not been tampered with by inexperienced hands. If you have it since new, try it with other speakers first or measure the DC (below 10 Mv is a lot, I think you are confusing it with the bias adjustment.) It should read just above 0 Volt, 0.01 to 0.05 Mv, no more. You can also test it with headphones.
To tell the truth, all that playing around with scope and things is about 100 times more risk to damage your new speaker than just connecting the amp and listen to some fine music.
The Technics got a DC protection with a relay, if anything goes wrong inside, it will simply go silent.
Next, on a Voodoo scale from 1 to 100, any "speaker break in" of more than two hours is at the end of the scale. Like 99.9
You can not do any harm to your new speakers at reasonable SPL by listening to music. There is no way you can improve the further sound by any method.
Using sine waves or special break in noise is something different, which can do real damage.
Just listen as you will do in future and be happy that you bought a nice speaker pair.
PS don't dare to use these speakers to test your DIYS build amp. Use some old speaker for that, even some car audio junk will do. Let them play over night at least, as some DIYS and parts faults develop. Use all caution and fuses the manual describes.
The Technics got a DC protection with a relay, if anything goes wrong inside, it will simply go silent.
Next, on a Voodoo scale from 1 to 100, any "speaker break in" of more than two hours is at the end of the scale. Like 99.9
You can not do any harm to your new speakers at reasonable SPL by listening to music. There is no way you can improve the further sound by any method.
Using sine waves or special break in noise is something different, which can do real damage.
Just listen as you will do in future and be happy that you bought a nice speaker pair.
PS don't dare to use these speakers to test your DIYS build amp. Use some old speaker for that, even some car audio junk will do. Let them play over night at least, as some DIYS and parts faults develop. Use all caution and fuses the manual describes.
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I connected a DM to the speaker outputs, and the amp shows 9 to 10mV DC on each one after I let it run for a couple of hours. When I first start it cold, I get 5mV to 6mV DC on each speaker output.
Also, I found a pair of Infinity EL bookshelf speakers in my storage. I can use those as test speakers when I finish my F5m.
Do you think it's possible to damage the speakers with the F5m if something fails in the future? I would hate to blow up my fancy-shmancy speakers.
Also, I found a pair of Infinity EL bookshelf speakers in my storage. I can use those as test speakers when I finish my F5m.
Do you think it's possible to damage the speakers with the F5m if something fails in the future? I would hate to blow up my fancy-shmancy speakers.
roboDNA:
https://www.quora.com/What-causes-DC-voltage-on-speaker-output
I don't know the amplifier you have, except that I've read the specifications. It seems to be one of those developments that deliver "first watts in class A and then in AB". The DC value allowed at the output is not the same for any amplifier topology. If the output stage of any amplifier malfunctions, it will deliver high currents that will overheat and burn the speaker coils. I'm talking about class AB, which I got to know a lot about, although that was many years ago.
Good luck and take care of your speakers, I personally think they deserve more power than the "pure Class A" DIY project you're building to shine.
https://www.quora.com/What-causes-DC-voltage-on-speaker-output
I don't know the amplifier you have, except that I've read the specifications. It seems to be one of those developments that deliver "first watts in class A and then in AB". The DC value allowed at the output is not the same for any amplifier topology. If the output stage of any amplifier malfunctions, it will deliver high currents that will overheat and burn the speaker coils. I'm talking about class AB, which I got to know a lot about, although that was many years ago.
Good luck and take care of your speakers, I personally think they deserve more power than the "pure Class A" DIY project you're building to shine.
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@Turbowatch2 Interesting you bring up a sine wave. I plan on using the F5m and speakers for analog synths I build. Those generate sine, saw, square, triangle waves. My current 'Minimoog Clone' circuit/test board goes down to 1Hz so I hope I don't damage my speakers. Should I worry about high frequencies? Must have to watch out for the same damage caused by test signals/waves. ( I want the synth to sound to rip apart the space-time continuum but not my speakers ) Apparently, it's possible to blow out a guitar amp with synth but still not sure why. I'm guessing there the speaker is tweaked for mid range and there is no ensclosed cabinet so easy to blow the speaker without noticing maybe.
@vinylkid58 they are unboxed. They came with white gloves so it would have been good to wear those for the video. The speakers are so heavy I just picked them up bare handed with NO white gloves.
@academia50 that could be, however my goal was to find decent speakers for my F5m build. At least now I have speakers for other amps if I build more. ( or purchase ). I prefer DIY since I understand and can see the signal path. I have no idea what happens to my analog synth signal once it goes into a 'secret roland amp module' or other mystery box. That is what drew me to the F5m and the Nelson Pass design. Just 2 JFETS and 2 MOSTFETs with a second harmonic but nothing else to 'color' the synth signal. I don't want my signal going into a DSP filter of any kind, even at the crossover. Maybe a Class D for sub but Class A is they way.
@vinylkid58 they are unboxed. They came with white gloves so it would have been good to wear those for the video. The speakers are so heavy I just picked them up bare handed with NO white gloves.
@academia50 that could be, however my goal was to find decent speakers for my F5m build. At least now I have speakers for other amps if I build more. ( or purchase ). I prefer DIY since I understand and can see the signal path. I have no idea what happens to my analog synth signal once it goes into a 'secret roland amp module' or other mystery box. That is what drew me to the F5m and the Nelson Pass design. Just 2 JFETS and 2 MOSTFETs with a second harmonic but nothing else to 'color' the synth signal. I don't want my signal going into a DSP filter of any kind, even at the crossover. Maybe a Class D for sub but Class A is they way.
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