B1 with Korg Triode

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#8,703
PSA for all NuTube enjoyers. I run my B1 through a set of ACA mono blocks and I recently noticed that the soundstage was shifted significantly to the left. I tried switching speakers, switching the amps, same result. Finally I opened up the B1 to remeasure everything, I found that T7 and T8 had drifted significantly with one reading 9.2 and the other reading 9.8, reset everything to 9.5 and all is good again. So I guess it's worth rechecking every once in a while.
 
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#8,705
The input to the Korg Nutube B1 is 24 VDC and the store kit uses a 5.5x2.5 barrel connector for the connection if I'm not mistaken. The @Zen Mod Soft Heat regulator is inserted into the circuit on the PCB (call it the power supply circuit if you'd like) where there's 24VDC being regulated and doesn't care who/where/how that 24VDC came to be.

The point @6L6 is making is 100V AC wall power at 50Hz has absolutely nothing to do with the 24 VDC the amp is running on. The conversion between the two is done by the wall wart depending on where you live in the world and what type of wall wart you have. Most modern wall warts are switching mode power supply (SMPS) and do not need to use a transformer (look up boost & buck, converters for how they work), although I'm sure there are some wall warts that use transformers.

So there's no worry as long as you get decently clean 24VDC to the preamp with regards to Zen Mod's regulator design as far as I can tell. @6L6 responded with a much more succinct answer to your question. I'm still learning how to do that better 🙂
 
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#8,707
birdbox said:
The input to the Korg Nutube B1 is 24 VDC and the store kit uses a 5.5x2.5 barrel connector for the connection if I'm not mistaken. The @Zen Mod Soft Heat regulator is inserted into the circuit on the PCB (call it the power supply circuit if you'd like) where there's 24VDC being regulated and doesn't care who/where/how that 24VDC came to be.

The point @6L6 is making is 100V AC wall power at 50Hz has absolutely nothing to do with the 24 VDC the amp is running on. The conversion between the two is done by the wall wart depending on where you live in the world and what type of wall wart you have. Most modern wall warts are switching mode power supply (SMPS) and do not need to use a transformer (look up boost & buck, converters for how they work), although I'm sure there are some wall warts that use transformers.

So there's no worry as long as you get decently clean 24VDC to the preamp with regards to Zen Mod's regulator design as far as I can tell. @6L6 responded with a much more succinct answer to your question. I'm still learning how to do that better 🙂
Click to expand...
If you read my question, you'll see I know the difference between a power supply and a simple transformer. I was going to purchase the ZM regulator kit or board offered and did not remember if the wall wart was a switch mode PS or a simple transformer. (I do not have access to my preamp right now.) So I figured a quick question here would get me a quick answer. Then I could order the parts or not, depending on the answer. So I do appreciate the response, but you made it sound like my question was dumb when it's not. I could explain why, but we've already cranked out a ton unnecessary verbiage. Thanks, though and cheers.
😛
 
#8,709
Skywave-Rider said:
I usually run the preamp on 100V/50Hz power. Do you think this would stress the regulator mod?
Click to expand...
Are you running the pre-amp using the supplied wall-wart or have you created your own, separate, PSU? I think you're using the supplied wall-wart b/c:

Skywave-Rider said:
and did not remember if the wall wart was a switch mode PS
Click to expand...

The wall-wart that comes with the kit, is a regulated SMPS, and the DC output supplied should be steady regardless of AC Mains voltage and frequency within parameters, thus... the regulator mod "does not care" as 6L6 has pointed out.

If you're using some other PSU, then let us know.
 
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#8,714
Been playing around with the positioning of mine and of course, there will be desoldering of part and cutting of one trace. Even after that, it doesn't look like the board can be directly mounted, but it would be fine if it were sticking straight up if you have the vertical space to do it.
I also look forward to pics and instructions for this since it just makes it easier.
 
#8,716
Respectfully, my initial take is: JFC^Aleph-one (we'll keep it Real... heh)

What a stunning performer! What a clever and well-executed design to get that 'tubey' thing! What a fun platform for a DIY guy to f*** around with (that's fool around with for you naughty-minded). What stunning community that bakes a moron level build guide (just talking about myself) and is so helpful when it comes to debugging problems. Not to mention the library of knowledge in this thread.

Just remarkable.

Thanks Team PassDIY for this gem.

leebert

PS oh yeah, I built a thing....
 
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#8,717
Build several things and compare them.

Is one of them audibly superior in EVERY situation?

Or are there instances [ (a. the 1812 overture) , (b. single female vocals) , (c. death metal) , (d. Led Zepplin's 3rd, 4th, and 5th albums , (e. string trios recorded outdoors) , (f. the Mormon Tabernacle Boys choir) where A is better than B, but other instances where D is better than A, and yet other instances where G is obviously better than everything else.
 
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#8,719
Well, I plan to add mine over the Holiday break while visiting family. I was hoping all the folks who have got kits would share how it went. I've sent out at least a dozen different folks or so, and one person got 10 kits as they apparently have a lot of B1 Korg Nutube preamps.

I plan to create a little 3D printed mount to connect the board to when I get to building and integrating mine.
 
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