Did you build your own enclosures or is there a flat pack source? These look great
No, my buying alternative is not Edifier R1700BT, but Supermon Mini. But I suspect I can DIY well under $1000, which is over 2x cheaper. But I am definitely not in the mood to save on drivers, as the drivers will stay with me forever, I only can rebuild the box and make it 2-way or something.
Thanks; I built them. Just rectangles butt joined with glue and brads. I used a plunge router and circle jig to inset the driver. It's amazing how clean you can make things look with square cuts and some sandpaper to smooth things out. That simple thing makes me look better at this stuff than I really am! BTW, an ACA Mini amp plus a pair of these speakers can be had for under $300 all in. A small near field desk rig is probaly the best and easiest to achieve application of that setup. I would be shocked to find any Sino bluetooth system that sounds as good. The depth and reality you can get from a nice fullrange driven by a Class A amp just can't be touched by any but the best multi way speakers and amps. I really love this setup. .... and I'm picky.
They appear to be designed for stand mount duty, so may not be a good desktop solution for the reasons you state. The rear porting probably doesn't help either. You could try stuffing the ports. That might tame with the boomyness.
jeff
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Unpacking them yourself. Figuring out how to connect, where to place. That is DIY. Besides they don't look as bad as in the photo. I would hate friends come into the house, they would think I have gone weird seeing those boxes. Maybe even leave me some money behind when they leave.
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Well I guess $300 includes the speaker brackets, amp and all those wires, then well done on the budget. Aesthetically, I rather not comment. It is way out of my taste.
Thanks Steve. Concur, I've got a B1K in to ACA premium parts powering old polk enclosures w/ Sony Coral holey basket full ranges grafted in at the office. Two more questions if I may:
Where did you source your adjustable wall brackets? And, what are the dimensions of your custom enclosures? I may replicate yours, even with the Markaudios.
Have you measured the response at your listening position? A sizable hump in the midbass is very common with speakers on a desk. I've done a few, and see things comparable to what Troels measured at the link below. While he found it positive, in my experience taming that region is important to getting a natural balance. Using a separate woofer and crossing in the 200-300 Hz region can simplify getting the balance right with a passive design.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/5F-8422T01.htm
Green is freefield
Red is measured on a simulated desk
Hi @JKiriakis . The outwer dimensions are 6 x 7 x 10.5 inches made of 3/4" MDF = 4.5 x 5.5 x 9 internal = 222.75 in^2 = approx 83Hz F3 with small 1 dB rise around 140Hz with moderate stuffing. Mine are Gen 1 CHR-70's so probably slightly different T/S parameters relative to what is sold today.
This is the wall bracket pair from Amazon. They work well and are not expensive. Cheers! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUITK24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
This is the wall bracket pair from Amazon. They work well and are not expensive. Cheers! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUITK24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've got a lot of great responses, thank you! However, I still feel inconclusive on so many options, I am not sure which option to research further.
To summarize, the ultimate computer desktop near wall 2 ft from ears, for low volume classical, 65 Hz - 20 kHz (will add a subwoofer later):
Pity there is no voting 🙂
To summarize, the ultimate computer desktop near wall 2 ft from ears, for low volume classical, 65 Hz - 20 kHz (will add a subwoofer later):
- Sealed MAOP 11
- Vented MAOP 11
- Sealed MAOP 10
- Vented MAOP 10
- Some smaller MAOP probably vented
- Something else?
Pity there is no voting 🙂
I wouldnt go too big on a desk. Maybe try a cheaper model like the CHN50 in one of Daves Slotvent designs first and see what u got with that. I dont think its too wise to put all your eggs in one basket before experienced different solutions and see what works for you.
"I wouldnt go too big on a desk" - but what is the reason behind this? Does the larger driver requires higher volume to sound good? But this is why I asked that maybe MAOP 11 sealed is better than a smaller one vented? Remember, I don't care about sub 65 Hz sounds.
Also going with a cheaper driver is not a good idea because later on I will end up with something for MAOP price anyway and the cheaper driver will be wasted. I'll end up paying twice. I would prefer to buy the best possible driver and in the worst case try different boxes or filters.
Also going with a cheaper driver is not a good idea because later on I will end up with something for MAOP price anyway and the cheaper driver will be wasted. I'll end up paying twice. I would prefer to buy the best possible driver and in the worst case try different boxes or filters.
The larger drivers may require a larger vented box to hit your 65Hz target. Also, you said you only need "low volume", so there's really no reason to pick a large driver, when a smaller driver will give you the bandwidth you require, and in a much smaller enclosure.
So what's the largest size box you could tolerate?
jeff
I'm in the maybe something else camp given where you seem to be, but this is dependent on figuring out whether your current bass issue is about lack of equalization or something else. Can you do acoustic measurements, and do you have a way to equalize the response? Even an RTA app on an iPhone with the built-in microphone is pretty good/accurate at lower frequencies. If you can get your current speakers equalized to something more pleasing to you, it could help you decide what approach makes sense.
Just to add to the options, something else than MA.
I have the TB W6-2313 on my desktop, in a sealed box of about 10-12 liters. For the same size, you can have them vented as well. depending on placement. In free air, I would add the port. Close to a wall, I would stay sealed, and they will reach 50-ish Hz at F3. A little more humph for those orchestral ensembles. You could always build them ported, and either plug the port of keep it opened, to your liking.
The imaging is stunning. They amaze me every time. You can pinpoint every instrument in an orchestra. They are detailed, voices and instruments are clear and present. There is a very good XO towards the last two pages of this driver's introduction in this forum.
Another route would be the SBA MR16PNW-8. It's called a mid range, but its extension is closer to a wide range, with the exception of the rising treble in most wide range drivers. In this case, it will get lower a bit, which is good for your near field listening. A rising FR would be annoying for sure and would need to be tamed. Same 10-12 liter box as sealed. It is an amazing driver as well. Very articulate, very good imaging. No need for a XO here. Maybe a BSC depending on how far your nearest wall is.
Those two will perform magnificently, offering you superb performance for a fraction of the cost of that Supermon pair, especially if you stand up from your desk. With that tiny ribbon tweeter, you will lose treble and detail as soon as your ears are out of the height of that ribbon, especially at such close range. There will be a very short optimal place where to put your head. The TB and SBA will offer better imaging over a wider space, not feeling you need to lock your head in one place.
I have the TB W6-2313 on my desktop, in a sealed box of about 10-12 liters. For the same size, you can have them vented as well. depending on placement. In free air, I would add the port. Close to a wall, I would stay sealed, and they will reach 50-ish Hz at F3. A little more humph for those orchestral ensembles. You could always build them ported, and either plug the port of keep it opened, to your liking.
The imaging is stunning. They amaze me every time. You can pinpoint every instrument in an orchestra. They are detailed, voices and instruments are clear and present. There is a very good XO towards the last two pages of this driver's introduction in this forum.
Another route would be the SBA MR16PNW-8. It's called a mid range, but its extension is closer to a wide range, with the exception of the rising treble in most wide range drivers. In this case, it will get lower a bit, which is good for your near field listening. A rising FR would be annoying for sure and would need to be tamed. Same 10-12 liter box as sealed. It is an amazing driver as well. Very articulate, very good imaging. No need for a XO here. Maybe a BSC depending on how far your nearest wall is.
Those two will perform magnificently, offering you superb performance for a fraction of the cost of that Supermon pair, especially if you stand up from your desk. With that tiny ribbon tweeter, you will lose treble and detail as soon as your ears are out of the height of that ribbon, especially at such close range. There will be a very short optimal place where to put your head. The TB and SBA will offer better imaging over a wider space, not feeling you need to lock your head in one place.
18 Liters will fit perfectly on my table. My Dynaudio are 13 Liters and I have like 10+ cm/3+ inch stands below them and can easily add an inch or two in every dimension.
TB W6-2313 sounds amazing from your description. So let me narrow to those or MAOP 11. The box must be sealed up to 18 liters.
Ok so let’s peel the skin off of your post……the best audiophile desktop…….stop
Physics being what it is, a transducers ability to operate cleanly is limited to 3 octaves. That being said and in keeping with your request, a single drive full range while simple and pure, isn’t the best audiophile solution. Given your pivot towards a full range solution, it’s safe to say your actual is something else.
Physics being what it is, a transducers ability to operate cleanly is limited to 3 octaves. That being said and in keeping with your request, a single drive full range while simple and pure, isn’t the best audiophile solution. Given your pivot towards a full range solution, it’s safe to say your actual is something else.
@mayhem13, your assumption about octave range appears incorrect. Much better than 3 octaves is achievabke. Say a full range can produce 200 Hz. A 3 octave range at a flat level then would be 200 to 1600 Hz. Easy peasy. A good fullrange can accuratly reproduce far beyond 3 octaves and sound good. 7 or 8 octaves of good sound can be achieved with many good full range speakers. 7 is much more the norm than 3.