If anyone has the dimensions of this chassis, please share it so we can have a look. It would be sad to redesign the boards to the point it does not fit. It is also important that it is neat and tidy inside the box, not a spaghetti junction.
https://modushop.biz/site/
They ship world wide. With the ability to get them to customize front and rear panels.
The chassis size would depend on how much heatsink is needed.
They ship world wide. With the ability to get them to customize front and rear panels.
The chassis size would depend on how much heatsink is needed.
Also would be nice if someone would research nice panel switches and controls. I am not a keen followed of LCD touch panels as it is impossible to keep clean, but it is of course the members choice. I don't want to be associated with the results, I want YOU to be, your amp your inputs and choices. I will do what I can.
FWIW I think an integrated amp could be a great idea. But there are so many variables involved, that even with a simplistic one-dimensional goal like "ultimate sound", there would be many non-overlapping paths of least resistance, or local minima in the search space.Lets just call this thread a bad idea and move on. I am sure we can find some other DIYers to irritate 😆 I probably will never build anything again in any case. I just don't have the interest or inclination.
One thing I'm working towards is combining several elements together:
My power amplifier, with contoured damping factor for voltage amplification in the bass & current amplification at high frequencies. This deliberately suits full-range speakers, or perhaps paralleling a few drivers.
Analogue active filters in a pre-amp stage. Classic bass/treble controls seem very appealing. I may decide to throw in a Nutube, so there could be some scope for subtle tone adjustment. Or a couple of "engineer's" options like bias adjustment that are readily accessible (thus treating users with more respect). Then there are useability features like 'sleep', so it's not constantly running hot. Or switching between bluetooth or wired inputs.
A separate power amplifier + separate pre-amp will typically have generic buffers, which could be improved upon with just a minimal level of integration. And that, already, without anything fancy (stepped attenuators with JFET muting...) is already a substantial project.
Very nice, thank you - there you have it guys! Okay so I guess the first choice would be power output and and class of amp. I would suggest AB if I may - I have zero experience with class D else we need to invite Bruno Putneyhttps://modushop.biz/site/
They ship world wide. With the ability to get them to customize front and rear panels.
The chassis size would depend on how much heatsink is needed.

Throw in whatever you like my friend, if it is drawn on a back of a cigarette pack it can be done. The impossible is attended and solved immediately. Miracles take a little longer.FWIW I think an integrated amp could be a great idea. But there are so many variables involved, that even with a simplistic one-dimensional goal like "ultimate sound", there would be many non-overlapping paths of least resistance, or local minima in the search space.
One thing I'm working towards is combining several elements together:
My power amplifier, with contoured damping factor for voltage amplification in the bass & current amplification at high frequencies. This deliberately suits full-range speakers, or perhaps paralleling a few drivers.
Analogue active filters in a pre-amp stage. Classic bass/treble controls seem very appealing. I may decide to throw in a Nutube, so there could be some scope for subtle tone adjustment. Or a couple of "engineer's" options like bias adjustment that are readily accessible (thus treating users with more respect). Then there are useability features like 'sleep', so it's not constantly running hot. Or switching between bluetooth or wired inputs.
A separate power amplifier + separate pre-amp will typically have generic buffers, which could be improved upon with just a minimal level of integration. And that, already, without anything fancy (stepped attenuators with JFET muting...) is already a substantial project.
I am not OS or Bonzai, but here are some of my amps I built and tested.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/200w-mosfet-cfa-amp.243481/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/lateral-cfa-120w-bsa.338814/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/thermaltrak-tmc-amp.182554/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/100w-cfa-with-mosfet-ops.411689/#post-7659290
Damir
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/200w-mosfet-cfa-amp.243481/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/lateral-cfa-120w-bsa.338814/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/thermaltrak-tmc-amp.182554/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/100w-cfa-with-mosfet-ops.411689/#post-7659290
Damir
Thank you Damir, appreciate your contribution. Sorry about leaving you off the list, my apologies to all of you I left off.. Beautiful Layout. Please follw dadod's links, it is too much to publish but I would have liked too.
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Well, just look at these boards. There's so much empty space it's incredible. A luxury an integrated amp wouldn't be able to afford.You are talking a substantial PCB, for example this is only the power amps and PSU, there is no tone control, input selection remote volume etc, etc. and need to fit exactly between the heatsinks. Yes it is fine if you develop it for manufacturing, but DIY? This would have to be a manufactured chassis, I don't think anyone would be up to it. Besides this is not a job, I am just messing around with stuff available from over twenty odd years. It will take a long time integrating everything into one PCB. These are just some parts I have offered on previous pages. Well if some PCB designer like Zoltan wants to contribute that would perhaps be nice.
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Someone suggested a single PCB I don't think so it will be silly and if you don't need a section you are wasting real estate. So no not one PCB.
If you're going to go down the modular route, then I am struggling to see what's different about this project proposal? Isn't everyone already doing this on DIY audio anyway? Most people are already mixing and matching modules from different sub-projects to create their ideal amplifier. What hasn't been done as far as I can see is a simple single board integrated amplifier that's suitable for DIY hobbyists to construct. Some of the Australian electronics magazines in the 80's had projects like these. I think one was called the 'Playmaster' if I remember correctly.
I seem to remember Bonsai is in the final stages of an integrated pre-amp board for DIYsimple single board integrated amplifier that's suitable for DIY hobbyists to construct
Another candidate for the power amp section might be Mooly's Lateral MOSFET design. The slim SMD layout will happily fit onto the side panels of Modushop 2U cases
@geoffw1 I would agree having seen your SMD layout for the Mooly amp, it would be a good candidate as would a couple of the designs by Lineup.
The Mooly circuit with mosfet protection built in, together with the Muses pre all powered by a ripple eater supply would be a perfect amp 😉
The Mooly circuit with mosfet protection built in, together with the Muses pre all powered by a ripple eater supply would be a perfect amp 😉
Why not go real simple. I could only imagine how small I could make that 6 device IPS/VAS with SMD !
I'd only change the Zener source for a real 2Q CCS. It does .002% up to 15K , .02% @ 20K. Circuits lasted 34 years without
burning a single tranny. Just Ksa/c to-92's ,TTA/C004 for VAS, HH uses this circuit for the K1058/J162 Hitachi FET's. ALL !! of them
still run after 40 years !!
The Mooly amp look's good , but the Hitachi/HH with it's differentials can do a consistent 20PPM over most of the audio range.
I'd only change the Zener source for a real 2Q CCS. It does .002% up to 15K , .02% @ 20K. Circuits lasted 34 years without
burning a single tranny. Just Ksa/c to-92's ,TTA/C004 for VAS, HH uses this circuit for the K1058/J162 Hitachi FET's. ALL !! of them
still run after 40 years !!
The Mooly amp look's good , but the Hitachi/HH with it's differentials can do a consistent 20PPM over most of the audio range.
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