Is there a revised 3D print file for the horns without the large ports? My mesh editing skills are poor, but we'll get it done if we have to..
I've decided to re-print in PETG because heat, so might as well delete the larger ports while we're at it.
I've decided to re-print in PETG because heat, so might as well delete the larger ports while we're at it.
@octopotamus we made inserts that plugged into the horn. I can send STL for those, we just did 360deg glue to seal and then used caulk under the paint. For paint we used rustoleum multi-colored texture paint which covers a multitude of sins and also doesn't show dust.
@octapotamus .... here you go... I was playing around with deleting the ports in Fusion the other day... turns out it was pretty easy... you just have to delete the fillets and then you can extend the inner port face to the wall of the horn (to object)... easy!
I did not include any of the braces as I think you want to print those separately and glue otherwise you're going to need a ton of supports...
I did not include any of the braces as I think you want to print those separately and glue otherwise you're going to need a ton of supports...
Kind of a two steps forward, one step back day on my build yesterday.
First I started with the cone plug, using the V8 file from the Jennygirl files.
I'm using Fusion360 for CAD and CAM. I use CNC a lot for my day job, but almost always just cutting simple 2D profiles into wood. Starting with an STL file, generating a mesh in Fusion and a lot of associated faffing around to get the mesh file to work was new to me.
I discovered after a couple of false starts that the program that Fusion 360 generated was causing the bit to pluge the full depth of the waste material towards the end of the program and this was causing a misalignment on the machine. The last few passes were then cutting away more of the cone plug than they should where the bit had become off centred,
I solved this by cutting the excess material away first, then removing these four corner pieces before starting the main program.
Success!
My Fusion 360 file is attached, should anyone need it.
Next job was cutting the angles on all the inner horn parts (no photos of this I'm afraid), and then I cut the 'base fixture' part from Sam Boenhoff's plans to see if I could get the inner horn parts lined up.
I see two issues - the inner horn sides seem to be longer than the inner horn top and bottom
And also the inner horn bottom obstructs the ports by about 2mm.
I used the Sam Boenhoff plans and just imported his DXF files into Fusion 360, so my assumption was that it would 'just work' as a number of people said his plans were good. My bad for not measuring as I went I guess, But anyway, first job when I am back in the workshop next week is to work out where the error has been introduced, and recut the part where there's a mistake.
More updates next week!
First I started with the cone plug, using the V8 file from the Jennygirl files.
I'm using Fusion360 for CAD and CAM. I use CNC a lot for my day job, but almost always just cutting simple 2D profiles into wood. Starting with an STL file, generating a mesh in Fusion and a lot of associated faffing around to get the mesh file to work was new to me.
I discovered after a couple of false starts that the program that Fusion 360 generated was causing the bit to pluge the full depth of the waste material towards the end of the program and this was causing a misalignment on the machine. The last few passes were then cutting away more of the cone plug than they should where the bit had become off centred,
I solved this by cutting the excess material away first, then removing these four corner pieces before starting the main program.
Success!
My Fusion 360 file is attached, should anyone need it.
Next job was cutting the angles on all the inner horn parts (no photos of this I'm afraid), and then I cut the 'base fixture' part from Sam Boenhoff's plans to see if I could get the inner horn parts lined up.
I see two issues - the inner horn sides seem to be longer than the inner horn top and bottom
And also the inner horn bottom obstructs the ports by about 2mm.
I used the Sam Boenhoff plans and just imported his DXF files into Fusion 360, so my assumption was that it would 'just work' as a number of people said his plans were good. My bad for not measuring as I went I guess, But anyway, first job when I am back in the workshop next week is to work out where the error has been introduced, and recut the part where there's a mistake.
More updates next week!
Actually, could you please send me these files, @MrSpeakers ? I may try and merge these with the original print files in the slicer.. Fizzy's STEP file is different to the ones I've been using, looks more suitable for CNC than FDM printing. None the less still very appreciated!
Another update - still by no means in the last mile, but this thing is starting to look like a SyntripP now.
I wish I'd made two boxes at once I wanted to make one first in case I discovered problems with the measurements, and I did uncover some inconsistencies, but it would still have been faster to build two boxes at the same time than build one, correct the mistakes then build a second. Live and learn.
Some photos -
Inner horn parts glued together. Using the jig in Sam Boenhoof's plans was invaluable for getting everything lined up. I also used PU foam glue instead of my normal Titebond wood glue cos, to be honest, this box was a pain to put together. My plywood wasn't quite flat to start with, so nothing lined up quite as well as I wanted, but the PU glue took care of small gaps here and there and made the joints extremely strong. But yeah, not my finiest woodworking moment. I'm hoping for an easier ride on box #2.
10CL51s are mounted with M4 threaded inserts.
I cut the top, bottom and side panels too. I have to machine side panel handle cut outs and bottom panel speaker pole cut out before I build the box - that's on the list for next week
I also need to look into the throat adapter plate next week - I'm planning to machine it from plywood if possible.
I wish I'd made two boxes at once I wanted to make one first in case I discovered problems with the measurements, and I did uncover some inconsistencies, but it would still have been faster to build two boxes at the same time than build one, correct the mistakes then build a second. Live and learn.
Some photos -
Inner horn parts glued together. Using the jig in Sam Boenhoof's plans was invaluable for getting everything lined up. I also used PU foam glue instead of my normal Titebond wood glue cos, to be honest, this box was a pain to put together. My plywood wasn't quite flat to start with, so nothing lined up quite as well as I wanted, but the PU glue took care of small gaps here and there and made the joints extremely strong. But yeah, not my finiest woodworking moment. I'm hoping for an easier ride on box #2.
10CL51s are mounted with M4 threaded inserts.
I cut the top, bottom and side panels too. I have to machine side panel handle cut outs and bottom panel speaker pole cut out before I build the box - that's on the list for next week
I also need to look into the throat adapter plate next week - I'm planning to machine it from plywood if possible.
I would appreciate hearing some opinions on amp selection.
I am using the following drivers in my SyntripPs
Mid - 10CL51 - nominal power 150W @ 8 ohm so two paralleled would be 300W @4ohm
HF - DE900TN - nomimal power 110W @ 8ohm
I have found a cheap 1u class D amp range from DAP Audio. It has four channels so I can power all the drivers in two SyntripPs with a single amp. It's not the best quality but the price is extremely tempting and I can upgrade later.
There are two options in the DAP Audio QI range
QI-4400 which will do 400W per channel at 4ohm and 250W per channel at 8 ohm.
QI-4600 which will do 600W per channel at 4ohm and 360W per channel at 8 ohm.
Would it be better to take the lower powered amp and push the 10CL51s closer to the limit of the amp, but the HF driver needs less limiting?
Or should I take the higher powered option which gives 2 x nominal power in the mid range, but will need significant limiting in the HF to ensure the amp doesn't drive the DE900TNs too hard?
I am using the following drivers in my SyntripPs
Mid - 10CL51 - nominal power 150W @ 8 ohm so two paralleled would be 300W @4ohm
HF - DE900TN - nomimal power 110W @ 8ohm
I have found a cheap 1u class D amp range from DAP Audio. It has four channels so I can power all the drivers in two SyntripPs with a single amp. It's not the best quality but the price is extremely tempting and I can upgrade later.
There are two options in the DAP Audio QI range
QI-4400 which will do 400W per channel at 4ohm and 250W per channel at 8 ohm.
QI-4600 which will do 600W per channel at 4ohm and 360W per channel at 8 ohm.
Would it be better to take the lower powered amp and push the 10CL51s closer to the limit of the amp, but the HF driver needs less limiting?
Or should I take the higher powered option which gives 2 x nominal power in the mid range, but will need significant limiting in the HF to ensure the amp doesn't drive the DE900TNs too hard?
The QI ratings are at 1kHz with 1% THD, take the higher powered option.
600W per channel at 4ohm is pushing the limit of the QI-4600, only reaching the "continuous power handling" of 300watts of the B&C 10CL51 when it begins to clip.
The DE900TN is rated for 220 W continuous program power, less than 3dB below 360W. Limit it appropriately.
Use the higher powered amp, peak limit the 10CL51 so the amp clip lights barely or never illuminate, do a long term RMS limit ~-6dB below that.
Art
600W per channel at 4ohm is pushing the limit of the QI-4600, only reaching the "continuous power handling" of 300watts of the B&C 10CL51 when it begins to clip.
The DE900TN is rated for 220 W continuous program power, less than 3dB below 360W. Limit it appropriately.
Use the higher powered amp, peak limit the 10CL51 so the amp clip lights barely or never illuminate, do a long term RMS limit ~-6dB below that.
Art
We opted to use the Hypex and could not be happier. You need to handle a case but these are so clean and quiet you literally have to put your ear next to the horn to hear hiss. https://www.hypex.nl/products/amplifier-families/mains-powered-ncore-family/nc502mp-oem
For our kickers and 21” bins we use the crazy powerful Rockville D14, it actually does. Put out 2KW rms into 8 ohms and they’ve survived every event we’ve been too, unreal at $299. Avoid the other models which are AB. https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-D1...25750136&sprefix=rockville+d14,aps,173&sr=8-1
@MrSpeakers I can't quote your post for some reason
The Hypex look good but even buying through my company they're 276 EUR and then you still need an amp for the HF drivers right? It's an option for the future, but I need to look at budget conscious options for now.
The Rockwell on the other hand looks like extraordinary value. I literally can't imagine how they can be making them at that price.
I have an Admark AD442 for sub duty, but it looks like it's worth getting one of the Rockwell also as a spare once my system starts getting regular usage
The Hypex look good but even buying through my company they're 276 EUR and then you still need an amp for the HF drivers right? It's an option for the future, but I need to look at budget conscious options for now.
The Rockwell on the other hand looks like extraordinary value. I literally can't imagine how they can be making them at that price.
I have an Admark AD442 for sub duty, but it looks like it's worth getting one of the Rockwell also as a spare once my system starts getting regular usage
@FartyMcfly we use the Hypex for the Mids and tops. 2 modules. The Rockville is a stunning value for sure. On an audio precision analyzer it delivers to spec though the 7KW peak is pretty much fiction. Thd in the midrange isn’t great though, but as a bridge solution on a budget it’s a decent choice.
To be clear you need 2 modules, one per channel. Each module has 2xh so one for Mids and a ne for compression driver. So for you that’d be 552E…
Any thoughts or considerations for plugging the ports towards the rear at the port entrance vs at the rectangular exit in the horn?