I am working on a open baffle speaker with four 10" woofers. I want all four to play low and only one to dip into the upper bass. (I am sure there is a technical term for this). I couldn't find anything online after a long search....only examples with two or three drivers. I want 4 drivers series/parallel or parallel series.
I don't know a whole lot about crossovers but I managed to cook something up. If it could work I will order some parts and try it out.
Could this work? Is there a better solution?
Also, C1 will be quite a high value...what kind of capacitor (possibly with a higher quality bypass cap) would work in this position?
Thanks
I don't know a whole lot about crossovers but I managed to cook something up. If it could work I will order some parts and try it out.
Could this work? Is there a better solution?
Also, C1 will be quite a high value...what kind of capacitor (possibly with a higher quality bypass cap) would work in this position?
Thanks
Because this is open baffle I need every square centimeter of cone area for sub bass. This would reduce it by 25%. Also the impedance would vary from 2.6ohm in the low bass to 8ohm for the rest of the frequency range....I would think not all amps will play nice with that.
If I understand it correctly, the requirement is to have three woofers reproduce only low bass while the fourth should reproduce both low and upper bass.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Consider the following when analysing your crossover:
Placing a capacitor in parallel with a woofer makes a low pass filter, meaning that the driver reproduces the low, but not the upper bass frequencies. In simple terms, the capacitor shunts the higher frequencies round the driver.
Placing an inductor in series with a driver also provides a low pass filter action - it would pass the lows, but block the highs.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Consider the following when analysing your crossover:
Placing a capacitor in parallel with a woofer makes a low pass filter, meaning that the driver reproduces the low, but not the upper bass frequencies. In simple terms, the capacitor shunts the higher frequencies round the driver.
Placing an inductor in series with a driver also provides a low pass filter action - it would pass the lows, but block the highs.
No idea what values you were thinking or what target curves you are trying to achieve, but I think the circuit does what you intended from a basic function standpoint, assuming I've interpreted your ideas correctly.
S3 and S4 are on top of each other in the frequency response plot, so S3 isn't visible. I intentionally offset S2 a little so it is visible.
This is theoretical, using only flat impedance and frequency response data. You should be modeling with real driver data.
XSim is free and is worth learning, especially if you don't have any modeling tools currently.
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Short answer, what you want is not practical.
Response difference would be quite small.
Just use the straight 4 x 10 as is, don't overthink it.
So what?
Response difference would be quite small.
THIS is gross, and proof that it's a very poor design, to put it mildly.
Just use the straight 4 x 10 as is, don't overthink it.
I'll reiterate my suggestion to place the 3 low woofers in series, not parallel if wanting mids from 4th. This because you can't place them in parallel to 2.6 ohms.
The best arrangement of 4 will involve 2 of them making mids and all 4 making bass. I was prioritizing your single driver with midrange goal. This will get you what is required.
The best arrangement of 4 will involve 2 of them making mids and all 4 making bass. I was prioritizing your single driver with midrange goal. This will get you what is required.
This looks like a project for some playing around with the flexibility and power of a miniDSP, actively driving each woofer with independent amp channels.
No, it will not work. All the speakers are low passed due to L1.
It's useful to model the thing and then throw an opinion out instead of just saying "it will not work". It actually does work basically as described. See post 5. All 4 woofers play low, and S1 extends farther up in frequency. Whether it's practical or does what the OP really wants is a different issue.
If you say so, then it works. I guess -60dB at high frequencies is working for you. If this is supposed to be some ob like subwoofer, then sorry, it has too much midrange.
If it supposed to be normal flat multiway speaker, than i repeat, " it will not work".
Why are you encouraging this approach? Why are you trying to argue?
If it supposed to be normal flat multiway speaker, than i repeat, " it will not work".
Why are you encouraging this approach? Why are you trying to argue?
Why 10"?
I know of no driver that small that will play bass well in OB let alone sub-bass unless near field in which case a driver each side would be enough.
I agree with Adason on moving to the subwoofer section.
Doing this using passive is a really bad idea tho.
I know of no driver that small that will play bass well in OB let alone sub-bass unless near field in which case a driver each side would be enough.
I agree with Adason on moving to the subwoofer section.
Doing this using passive is a really bad idea tho.
Number 1), I'm not arguing. I was restating a point that you missed or were ignoring. Lots of people don't read threads thoroughly, so it seemed worth repeating. Sorry if that offended you.
2) Because the trend I see in many threads is to make people feel stupid for suggesting something different or not agreeing with someone else's idea about what the "best" way to do something is. A little analysis, encouragement, enthusiasm, or tact when dealing with someone's idea would go a long way toward making this hobby more fun for more people.
I'm moving along now. You all carry on.
This is the bass section of a multi way. There will also be a midrange and tweeter or "full"range on top.
OK then why try and meld one of the 4 woofers into the midrange?
Personally I try not to do that.
But to give a better opinion [ and it will only be an opinion] what are the woofer details? Some drivers have better HF extension than others but even so if using a dedicated mid then something around 300Hz or lower
Personally I try not to do that.
But to give a better opinion [ and it will only be an opinion] what are the woofer details? Some drivers have better HF extension than others but even so if using a dedicated mid then something around 300Hz or lower
I already use the 8" version of this driver and it fills the room quite nicely with bass...
With some eq they get down to about 40hz in room and hopefully the 10" drivers will go a few hz lower. I am aware I could do better with some acoustic elegance drivers. But these are less than 1/13th of the price per cm2 cone area. Only drawback of these is that they aren't properly ventilated so when you push them there is "wind noise". But I am not complaining for 6 bucks per driver.
These woofers extend well past 2000 Hz with fairly flat response and low distortion.....and they are dirt cheap.
Thanks for the sim! You are right. I should get into Xsim. Don't give a man fish, teach him how to fish 😂XSim is free and is worth learning, especially if you don't have any modeling tools currently.
They are all supposed to be low passed. Three should be low passed very low....like subwoofers, the fourth one will hand over to a midrange at around 600Hz or so.