I picked up a couple today. One pair is a home made set using cheap Jaycar drivers but the other set is some old Tandy
Optimus 5-B / # 40-2006
I hope they are the ones I want with the twin 16R tweeters doing the midrange and a singleton working up higher
Anybody here have any experience with them before I pull the drivers out and check the boxes. One thing tho; these are quite heavy and do appear to be both e=well constructed and in reasonable condition
Optimus 5-B / # 40-2006
I hope they are the ones I want with the twin 16R tweeters doing the midrange and a singleton working up higher
Anybody here have any experience with them before I pull the drivers out and check the boxes. One thing tho; these are quite heavy and do appear to be both e=well constructed and in reasonable condition
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I’ve pulled at least a coupleof those apart.
AA nice Coral woofer.
Althou they look identiacl but for madners and are marked Midrange and Tweeter.
dave
AA nice Coral woofer.
Althou they look identiacl but for madners and are marked Midrange and Tweeter.
dave
Can't remember which model I had, but a few years ago had something similar (documented hereabouts), in which I only kept the woofer, replaced the tweeters with a full ranger & donated them to my daughter IIRC. The woofer was a good one, measured well. Cheers!
Anybody got a crossover diagram before I pull them apart?
Dave is it only the impedance which is different with the tweeters/ mids or do they measure differently?
Bass is quite good but they are a bit squawky at the top
Dave is it only the impedance which is different with the tweeters/ mids or do they measure differently?
Bass is quite good but they are a bit squawky at the top
I know that there is a long running post over at AudioKarma but Kaspersky is stopping me from logging in for some reason
Pete I might follow your example and just use the woofers.
The crossover is simply a small cap on for each band and a tiny coil for the woofer
The crossover is simply a small cap on for each band and a tiny coil for the woofer
Thanx Dave
Yes 2 caps Plus a tiny coil on the woofer, so small I can't read the value.
I'll take some pix later today.
The dope has run off the silk edge membrane on all of these, any hints on fixing that?
Yes 2 caps Plus a tiny coil on the woofer, so small I can't read the value.
I'll take some pix later today.
The dope has run off the silk edge membrane on all of these, any hints on fixing that?
DATS says Fs on these little mid drivers is ~160
I think I can make these work a bit better than original if I can fix this silk doping problem
I think I can make these work a bit better than original if I can fix this silk doping problem
A question for the Brains trust, and especially you Dave.
Would crossing these little Corals as low as 500 put too much power to them using a two element XO, probably ~LR2 electrical
Would crossing these little Corals as low as 500 put too much power to them using a two element XO, probably ~LR2 electrical
The box is so well constructed it would be a shame not to use it. Most Radio Shack boxes I've seen or had in my shed are pretty "RS" but these are solid and well braced.
Fs on these woofers is a respectable 21Hz and they might go a little lower if ModPodged so I'm surprised they go so high and are used open. I've not used the 4R version of these drivers before Only the 16R versions in parallel Which was more common? The 16R / the 8R or the 4R??
Fs on these woofers is a respectable 21Hz and they might go a little lower if ModPodged so I'm surprised they go so high and are used open. I've not used the 4R version of these drivers before Only the 16R versions in parallel Which was more common? The 16R / the 8R or the 4R??
Perhaps my arithmetic is off but running the components through a calculator last nite if the attenuation circuit was in front of the XO and not after it the combination of 1.4mH to ground and that 10uF cap gives a XO frequency of ~740hz not 1700
Now I usually do put the attenuation before any other components, if I swap the configuration around could I just swap out the 10uF cap [ if it actually needs swapping ] and use the plastic plate still?
Edit
I'll be gifting these so the XO doesn't need to be perfect; just better than it is now with the mids top end mixing with the tweeters output
Now I usually do put the attenuation before any other components, if I swap the configuration around could I just swap out the 10uF cap [ if it actually needs swapping ] and use the plastic plate still?
Edit
I'll be gifting these so the XO doesn't need to be perfect; just better than it is now with the mids top end mixing with the tweeters output
If they blow up I could put something better in the holes I guess or try and fine a quad of the 16R drivers just in case
Those should be decent. The inverted dustcap is good. The `12kHz top is probably optimistic, but well behaved. 800 Hz is probably 1st order.
dave
dave
