I have some builds in progress that require UPC1237 speaker protection ICs, but how do I find genuine ones (ideally in EU)?
I have a couple of older amplifier boards that don't work and I am pretty sure the ICs I put in (from ebay/aliexpress) are the culprit. Since they are also a PITA to remove once soldered in place I would like to ensure I get genuine ICs, but I am not sure where to go as the "usual suspects" don't seem to carry these?
I have a couple of older amplifier boards that don't work and I am pretty sure the ICs I put in (from ebay/aliexpress) are the culprit. Since they are also a PITA to remove once soldered in place I would like to ensure I get genuine ICs, but I am not sure where to go as the "usual suspects" don't seem to carry these?
They are obsolete and as said, it doesn't matter if they are not genuine provided they work. You can easily test them.
Good point - "confirmed working replacements" will of course do just fine 🙂
@batteryman How do I test them?
@batteryman How do I test them?
Put some DC into the speaker connections and also try some square waves or pulses. Mine disconnects the speakers if I drive my amp into clipping.
(Connect an amp with a dummy load)
(Connect an amp with a dummy load)
uPC1237 is still made by Unisonic Taiwan.
https://en.unisonic.com.tw/uploadfiles/836/part_no_pdf/upc1237.pdf
https://en.unisonic.com.tw/
https://en.unisonic.com.tw/uploadfiles/836/part_no_pdf/upc1237.pdf
https://en.unisonic.com.tw/
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To avoid destroying an amp PCB by repeated soldering/de soldering test them on Protoboard first.
Datasheet should suggest a test circuit .
Worst case copy the relevant bit from amp schematic (post it here for suggestions); apply , say, 9VDC (from a battery) to the trigger point and watch it turn speaker relay ON/OFF (as needed)
It should reverse what it did when you remove said 9V
If it passes this functional then it can be mounted on.the original amp.
By the way, how do you know original is bad?
You may still have a problem on amp and protector is just doing its job
Datasheet should suggest a test circuit .
Worst case copy the relevant bit from amp schematic (post it here for suggestions); apply , say, 9VDC (from a battery) to the trigger point and watch it turn speaker relay ON/OFF (as needed)
It should reverse what it did when you remove said 9V
If it passes this functional then it can be mounted on.the original amp.
By the way, how do you know original is bad?
You may still have a problem on amp and protector is just doing its job
I got 10 pcs of UPC1237 from Aliexpress, checked for DC detect , all are working perfectly
I got 10 pcs of UPC1237 from Aliexpress, checked for DC detect and other functions, all are working perfectly as per specs
No surprise really. It's not like they need an Arm Cortex processor to do the simple tasks they have to perform.
I wouldn't use any fake part,not only processors!
I have paid blowing expensive parts due to thieves.
I have bought fake transistors,fake microcontrollers,fake caps.
I have spent a month looking at the source code and then i discovered the fake pic18f452.
I have some blown speakers ,you can imagine why...
No money for thieves any more,not my 💰 at least..
I have paid blowing expensive parts due to thieves.
I have bought fake transistors,fake microcontrollers,fake caps.
I have spent a month looking at the source code and then i discovered the fake pic18f452.
I have some blown speakers ,you can imagine why...
No money for thieves any more,not my 💰 at least..
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A DIYer once told me that he had a design that worked fine with the original NEC but can be a bit dodgy with some of the Chinese samples. It seemed the original was a bit more tolerant of some voltage variation in his design and once he changed the voltage regulation, both parts worked fine.