Hello everyone. I was crazy about building some full range speakers with Markaudio drivers, after having seen their constructions on YouTube.
The idea is to use the CHR-120 or the CHN-110, in large boxes such as the St Helens for the latter (Fb 32hz, upward firing, 30.6 liters). Or the Classic 35 liters vented box for the CHR-120 (Fb 36 hz)
I would lean towards CHN-110 in St Helens as the driver is cheaper.
I currently have some B&W DM602 S1 amplified with Marantz PM6006.
How would the B&W DM602 compare to the CHN-110 built speaker in the St Helens box?
Greetings and thanks.
The idea is to use the CHR-120 or the CHN-110, in large boxes such as the St Helens for the latter (Fb 32hz, upward firing, 30.6 liters). Or the Classic 35 liters vented box for the CHR-120 (Fb 36 hz)
I would lean towards CHN-110 in St Helens as the driver is cheaper.
I currently have some B&W DM602 S1 amplified with Marantz PM6006.
How would the B&W DM602 compare to the CHN-110 built speaker in the St Helens box?
Greetings and thanks.
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It is difficult to predict the results of those projects. My only one make was 3 Karlsons depicted somewere here.
Good luck.
¡Buena mateada amigo uruguayo!
Good luck.
¡Buena mateada amigo uruguayo!
Tough question. It's going to be different. Why not build it and see? If it does something you like, there's even an upgrade path!
I'll try and tell you.
I just checked that there is no stock of CHN-110.
I'll have to buy the most expensive ones. CHR-120.
Actually, apart from wanting to experiment, I would like to see if I can achieve a less exhausting sound than the B&W DM602.
These B&W are very detailed, analytical speakers, which you really like at the beginning of listening because of the richness of details, but after a while of listening they tire you out and you have to stop listening.
At least that's what happens to me.
I hope that with the full range you will achieve a pleasant listening experience.
These B&W are very detailed, analytical speakers, which you really like at the beginning of listening because of the richness of details, but after a while of listening they tire you out and you have to stop listening.
At least that's what happens to me.
I hope that with the full range you will achieve a pleasant listening experience.
Add a bit of EQ to tame the high kids of the B&W to make them listenable.
Nobody can tell you what the difference is between the DIY and the brand as we all listen with different ears and expectations.
It's something you will have to figure out for yourself.
Nobody can tell you what the difference is between the DIY and the brand as we all listen with different ears and expectations.
It's something you will have to figure out for yourself.
You won’t be disappointed with the CHN-110. Really an outstanding driver.
It will sound different than the B&W. Likely more DDR. No XO and no whizzer makes for a seemless range. Has a much more controlled top than ome of the pricier ones. Needs a bigger box but you get lower because of that.
Joan (the Frugel-Horn) gets you the most bottom.
dave
It will sound different than the B&W. Likely more DDR. No XO and no whizzer makes for a seemless range. Has a much more controlled top than ome of the pricier ones. Needs a bigger box but you get lower because of that.
Joan (the Frugel-Horn) gets you the most bottom.
dave
planet10, my idea was to use the CHN-110, but Madisound is out of stock.
I lived in Uruguay and bought in the USA from where a courier company sent it to Uruguay.
I'll have to use the CHR-120.
What do you think of this driver in a 35-40 liter box?
Like these.
Which one do you think is better
I lived in Uruguay and bought in the USA from where a courier company sent it to Uruguay.
I'll have to use the CHR-120.
What do you think of this driver in a 35-40 liter box?
Like these.
Which one do you think is better
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Try Scott's 35L design. Bass extension should be quite good.
Check out Joseph's build in a 28L box for reference. The video is worth watching in case you want to use his treble contour circuit to tame the high frequencies.
I'd try the last of the four designs proposed. For a change, I'd put the ports in front ( below the woofer) and the inner one centered ( now is offset ). To be picky, I'd use ducts with flared ports.
I always want to do a DCR, maybe one day...
I always want to do a DCR, maybe one day...
vinylkid58, Joseph's design seems like a very good one.
https://josephcrowe.com/products/speaker-plan-no-1866-markaudio-chr120
But if I wanted to avoid the filter to compensate for the deflector passage, wouldn't it be better to build the 35 liter box?
Or the Perdita double chamber reflex?
https://josephcrowe.com/products/speaker-plan-no-1866-markaudio-chr120
But if I wanted to avoid the filter to compensate for the deflector passage, wouldn't it be better to build the 35 liter box?
Or the Perdita double chamber reflex?
Just depends on how much bass extension you want. He used a BSC filter, which you may not need.
jeff
It's an interesting project. First I will order the purchase of the drivers and then I will decide which box I will build.
Position of driver on the baffle influences sound. I am using simulation software "The Edge" to plot the best position on the baffle.
https://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm
https://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm