Just use a wooofer or better 4 middrange. Tweeter will only destroy sound. Scrap some 2 ways car speakers and cut the wires to sweeter. use 3 to four of them or how many fits your baffle.
Ceers!
Ceers!
This is a good question. The answer of course is, it depends. Some people want the feedback, it can add to the guitar sounding thicker, and when taken to Hendrix extremes can set the guitar alive and often out of the players control. Feedback on demand is fickle so some players use a sustainiac effect on their guitar so they can turn the feedback on and off regardless of the volume. Trey Anastasio is famous for this. High gain amplifiers can go into feedback much easier with a solid bodied guitar than with a clean poppy amp like a Fender Twin. A high gain amp is so compressed that it amplifies every sound a lot, and before you know it you get some cool feedback and ripping overtones. Jazz and country players usually do not like any feedback and will stuff their hollow bodied guitars with old sox and rags (or even spray foam!) to make them less resonant. Some rock and roll cats, (Brian Setzer) like a bit (just on the edge of losing control) of feedback to add a kind of reverb fatness to their sound.
Feedback is dependent on the volume of the amp, how much gain or compression is used, the style of guitar (hollow or solid), the size of the room, and the position in the room of the guitar and amp. You can get feedback really easily with a hollow bodied guitar in a small room with almost any amp. Wanted feedback may never show up on a dry stage with no natural reverb and a solid body guitar through a Marshall stack. The frustration many guitar players have is they get great feedback when practicing but can‘t find it during a live performance. I remember seeing SRV live and he wanted feedback and wasn’t getting it. He turned right then left, no feedback, he went closer to his amp and still nothing, he went over to his amp and absolutely frustrated he banged his guitar into the amp and still got nothing. I can’t tell you why there was no feedback because it was loud as heck.
Feedback doesn’t change the feel of the strings, it changes what the strings and the amp are doing. Playing the feedback, the ringing, and overtones is great fun.
No, wait, I didn't mean that, the first picture just refers to the same cabinet just with two different woofers, to see which speaker would fit better that cabinet.
I plan to only have just a single guitar cabinet.
I already have a good setup that I'm using for the PC (2x Adam T5V and a Adam T10S), I just would like to have a dedicated guitar cab to practice guitar without having to use the pc.
By the way, @Tenson you will probably like this video:
Also this other video talking about speaker cabinet was pretty interesting too:
Excellent, then I made a wrong assumption and you can simply drop the tweeter and easily make a very nice and much simpler design using a single 10" or 12" suitable for your budget and use case scenario.
Edit:
Perhaps it would be fun using a single Fane 12-250TC and padding down the top using a single coil, you could still get a "hot" top end pending on where you decide to roll it off. Cheap and loud driver, well suitable for a compact U baffle or closed box.
Edit:
Perhaps it would be fun using a single Fane 12-250TC and padding down the top using a single coil, you could still get a "hot" top end pending on where you decide to roll it off. Cheap and loud driver, well suitable for a compact U baffle or closed box.
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Those videos are useless for judging guitar amp tone. Why? Because all youtube videos use lossy encoded audio. All the details are lost that the encoder thinks you don't need to hear.
Other than that, turning up all knobs to max is a poor way to compare sounds. Its somewhere closer to around the point the amp starts to breakup that its sound can be "played" by manipulating the guitar strings.
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He also saved uncompressed recordings of his findings on his website! So that you can compare.
I listen often to joppepeelen's videos of his speakers They sound sublime on even crappy phone speakers. That's why I dont think youtube's encoding is a problem. Especially after the new codec they changed to maybe 5 years ago. Too man other variables in recording chain however. You can get awesome sound from the crappiest guitar amp depending on your playing and mike position. You are right. It cant be judged from above video. The guy is also not terribly knowledgeable. Impressive regarding his lack of experience but still..
Cheers!
Cheers!
There are thousands of old guitar speakers for sale used.
I get you are probably enjoying the diy approach, but the blackstar fly is very inexpensive ($100 CDN) and bizarrely fun to play considering its the size of a clock radio. There is always some new hot little thing out there that sells for less than $200. Amazon has little amps starting around $50 and I wouldn't be suprised if they are decent considering what amazon did to the pedal market.
There are so many modelling amps out there I'm sure you could pick something up cheaply. You could always get a modelling amp and then build a cabinet with a guitar speaker to play it through. They can be really fun!
Lastly there are a lot of inexpensive. small tube amps like the epiphone valve junior, VHT, or vox. I had a VHT and it was great especially when I installed a better speaker. These are the real deal and you'll get a lot further developing tone with these than you would by employing a tweeter.
I get you are probably enjoying the diy approach, but the blackstar fly is very inexpensive ($100 CDN) and bizarrely fun to play considering its the size of a clock radio. There is always some new hot little thing out there that sells for less than $200. Amazon has little amps starting around $50 and I wouldn't be suprised if they are decent considering what amazon did to the pedal market.
There are so many modelling amps out there I'm sure you could pick something up cheaply. You could always get a modelling amp and then build a cabinet with a guitar speaker to play it through. They can be really fun!
Lastly there are a lot of inexpensive. small tube amps like the epiphone valve junior, VHT, or vox. I had a VHT and it was great especially when I installed a better speaker. These are the real deal and you'll get a lot further developing tone with these than you would by employing a tweeter.
So, I tried to put some holes in my Eket cabs, and they are hollow with honeycomb paper inside. NOT very usable, impossible to secure a screw in. Very weak quality.
Paper honeycomb is fine for speakers. Just need to learn to work with it. The regular way is to create hard points by machining some comb away and inlaying a bit of ply using wood flour and epoxy goop. Its actually easier to use than PP honeycomb. If you can fit in a ring of ply as I described, it will form a structural hard point to mount the driver
Thanks, good to know, @Randy Bassinga 🙂. To add to experiences with Eket, the vinyl wrap is very thin and not very durable 🙁.
Hey man, there is even an easier way to turn it from salvage to masterpiece. I had forgotten a method that I don't use often, as usually I work with fair curves and not compound. Its called cold moulding and very useful and structural and the below procedure should be useful for anyone who wants to either cover or take off a moulding from a compound shape
If you are comfortable stripping the wrap, using epoxy and white vinegar and isopropyl
Strip and clean up
Beg some wood shavings and sanding dust from a joiner or go nuts with a sharp blade on a hand plane and belt sander on any wood you like
Mix up 10ml of epoxy at a time using a pair of 5ml syringes. You can order ones made for epoxy from Ali as well as the epoxy too
Mix whatever colour pigment for epoxies into your neat goop, black is nuts here. And a teaspoon of dust
Paste on one shaving at a time using the goop, use lace pins or tacks with handles to pin them down, you can take the pins out and replace as you form layers and overlap tabs. Wait between 10-15hrs to cure, no longer that
Coat overall with at least two coats of goop without the dust
Let it cure over 24hrs
Wet sand with isocol and 360 wet/dry type paper until yo strike the shavings faces
Use Feast Watson sanding sealer now and let cure
Wet sand with iscocol and 600 wet/dry paper, follow up with 1000 or finer if you want to get a finish that looks like glass but silky to touch and not grabby
Boot polish in the colour you want and buff away
Or build up 5 coats of epoxy and wet sand and apply satin poly over that and wet sand with 2000 and buff with car cutting compound and buff with car wax
for a thick glass look that is still silky and not plasticy to touch
There is another step to even further lush either of that finish, but enough feeding of the lurkers already. The above is already a professional method described in detail for bettering showroom finish on any wooden surface and includes either a retouchable boot polish method or a UV and weather/climate resistant finish. This is a DIY site after all so all the power to all 😀
If you are comfortable stripping the wrap, using epoxy and white vinegar and isopropyl
Strip and clean up
Beg some wood shavings and sanding dust from a joiner or go nuts with a sharp blade on a hand plane and belt sander on any wood you like
Mix up 10ml of epoxy at a time using a pair of 5ml syringes. You can order ones made for epoxy from Ali as well as the epoxy too
Mix whatever colour pigment for epoxies into your neat goop, black is nuts here. And a teaspoon of dust
Paste on one shaving at a time using the goop, use lace pins or tacks with handles to pin them down, you can take the pins out and replace as you form layers and overlap tabs. Wait between 10-15hrs to cure, no longer that
Coat overall with at least two coats of goop without the dust
Let it cure over 24hrs
Wet sand with isocol and 360 wet/dry type paper until yo strike the shavings faces
Use Feast Watson sanding sealer now and let cure
Wet sand with iscocol and 600 wet/dry paper, follow up with 1000 or finer if you want to get a finish that looks like glass but silky to touch and not grabby
Boot polish in the colour you want and buff away
Or build up 5 coats of epoxy and wet sand and apply satin poly over that and wet sand with 2000 and buff with car cutting compound and buff with car wax
for a thick glass look that is still silky and not plasticy to touch
There is another step to even further lush either of that finish, but enough feeding of the lurkers already. The above is already a professional method described in detail for bettering showroom finish on any wooden surface and includes either a retouchable boot polish method or a UV and weather/climate resistant finish. This is a DIY site after all so all the power to all 😀