Yes, some want "convenience" - AKA a fool-proof design, so that they can save brain cells and make a mistake.
Perhaps an APP will be invented for that affliction too.
People live by APPS these days... their whole world is under "APP control".
I’m afraid no app will ever stop me from brain farting.
That being said, a sturdy 4PDT switch and resistors across the +/- binding posts is the solution I am going for at this time.
I might build the box based on the Grayhill switches, but at $70 per switch + the other parts, that could be a $200 project before I know it.
That being said, a sturdy 4PDT switch and resistors across the +/- binding posts is the solution I am going for at this time.
I might build the box based on the Grayhill switches, but at $70 per switch + the other parts, that could be a $200 project before I know it.
I purchased a 4PDT heavy-duty switch from Parts Express and have no issues with it for years.
A couple of dollars, add in a plastic box, some binding posts... done deal.
A couple of dollars, add in a plastic box, some binding posts... done deal.
The reason I built this speaker switcher utilize make-before-break switches with resistors is because the user want to A/B comparing two tube amps on one pair of speaker, and he don't want a resistor connected parallel to the speaker.
With this switcher, he didn't need to turn off the tube amps for switching.
I hope it makes sense.✌️
With this switcher, he didn't need to turn off the tube amps for switching.
I hope it makes sense.✌️
Hi, All.
If my tube integrated has two taps - one for 8 ohm and one for 16 and I'm running the 8 ohm tap into a switch, can I put the resistors on the 16 ohm tap for protection? Or does it need to be on the wired connection?
Thanks!
From a large distance and peeked at this topic only diagonally, it is a solid no. Consult an electronic engineer for proper advice whatsoever.
Here are uncountable examples why.