I was given those speakers that seem to be damaged from the previous owners small children.
I post 2 pics, the first is of the speaker that had its tweeter's outer membrane totally ripped and the other one that survived...
So, is this fixable?
I have no clue about those modern type tweeters, I remember tweeters being just smaller speaker drivers.
I post 2 pics, the first is of the speaker that had its tweeter's outer membrane totally ripped and the other one that survived...
So, is this fixable?
I have no clue about those modern type tweeters, I remember tweeters being just smaller speaker drivers.
Small children and Cats are the bane of high-end audio speakers...Children ruin the drivers, cats destroy those elegant perfectly finished cabinets. The two of them together for any length of time can reduce your highly prized loudspeakers to junk status in no time.
Your "ripped membrane" example is utterly toast & likely cannot be repaired, dented in woofer dust-caps can carefully be pulled back out to an approximate original shape.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
Your "ripped membrane" example is utterly toast & likely cannot be repaired, dented in woofer dust-caps can carefully be pulled back out to an approximate original shape.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
You always start with a visual inspection. Take the things apart and look.
I expect that tweeter can be replaced. What is it 25mm 91dB dome? 104mm or 94mm faceplate?
Think it's the small front speaker part of the Atlantic 2006 Technology 1200 Theatre system from a quick google.
I don't recognise it though. Maybe a Peerless or Vifa will do?
Tweeters are all the same really. Haven't changed in years.
Best, Steve.
I expect that tweeter can be replaced. What is it 25mm 91dB dome? 104mm or 94mm faceplate?
Think it's the small front speaker part of the Atlantic 2006 Technology 1200 Theatre system from a quick google.
I don't recognise it though. Maybe a Peerless or Vifa will do?
Tweeters are all the same really. Haven't changed in years.
Best, Steve.
Depending on the model, you may be able to get a replacement diaphragm/voice coil assembly for the tweeter.
Here's one example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125533401093
Here's one example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125533401093
Get a kitchen funnel of appropriate size and apply oral negative pressure.
Sorry for taking so long to reply...
Back story is that I got for 50€ a 5.1 system consisting of:
2 surround speakers: Atlantic Technology 920 LR
1 center speaker : Atlantic Technology 1200C
2 front speakers: Atlantic Technology 1200 LR
1 sub: Atlantic Technology 102 SB
Full specs here:
https://www.mislimited.co.uk/Uploads/1248950499_Atlantic_Technology_920_Manual.pdf
Everything works except one of the front speakers that has its tweeter destroyed, as you already know.
The poked in dust cover has any significant impact to sound? Because I thought it has no impact at all.
I tested tweeter with multimeter and its totally open: infinite resistance.
Also connected it to an amp and it's totally silent as expected
Since the tweeter is dead I carefully tried to remove it. Pics attached
Something gone terribly wrong also to the crossover of that speaker. I will create a separate thread for the crossover because this is something I have never seen before and have no clue how it happened.
Back story is that I got for 50€ a 5.1 system consisting of:
2 surround speakers: Atlantic Technology 920 LR
1 center speaker : Atlantic Technology 1200C
2 front speakers: Atlantic Technology 1200 LR
1 sub: Atlantic Technology 102 SB
Full specs here:
https://www.mislimited.co.uk/Uploads/1248950499_Atlantic_Technology_920_Manual.pdf
Everything works except one of the front speakers that has its tweeter destroyed, as you already know.
The poked in dust cover has any significant impact to sound? Because I thought it has no impact at all.
I tested tweeter with multimeter and its totally open: infinite resistance.
Also connected it to an amp and it's totally silent as expected
Since the tweeter is dead I carefully tried to remove it. Pics attached
Something gone terribly wrong also to the crossover of that speaker. I will create a separate thread for the crossover because this is something I have never seen before and have no clue how it happened.
Attachments
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Does this impact the sound?
You were totally correct, check previous post please
How am I going to install this to the rest of the tweeter?
It looks like your tweeter is glued together, which makes it more difficult (some are screwed together and have alignment features built into them to make repairs easy). I could not find a decent repair video or even a clean set of instructions for your style tweeter. If you watch enough youtube videos it should become more obvious how to do a repair like this, but I can't point you at one source that covers enough. Maybe someone else knows of a good tutorial out there somewhere.
@kstgr, put your country in your settings to help people know what is available to you locally.
I think you should keep your crossover woes in this thread too. Otherwise we are hopping around from thread to thread. It's all one problem really.
I'd like to see the front baffle minus the drivers to visualise a possible fix. I also want to know the diameter of the tweeter faceplate in mm.
My initial notion was it might be possible to cut down the plastic faceplate of some existing tweeter to fit.
The top tweeter gathering rust and dust on a shelf is a 100mm Sony balanced Drive with a 28mm aperture, the bottom a 94mm Visaton DT94 mylar dome.
Both quite good, as it goes. These are standard sizes. Tweeters tend to be 88-91 dB at nominal 8 ohms (which is 6 ohms DCR usually). Some are 4 ohms or 3 ohms DCR.
You might be able to fit a piece of ply and a really small tweeter too. For instance:
https://www.seas.no/index.php?optio...cg&catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&Itemid=239
I have no answers at this stage, but the more you tell us, the more we can help.
I think you should keep your crossover woes in this thread too. Otherwise we are hopping around from thread to thread. It's all one problem really.
I'd like to see the front baffle minus the drivers to visualise a possible fix. I also want to know the diameter of the tweeter faceplate in mm.
My initial notion was it might be possible to cut down the plastic faceplate of some existing tweeter to fit.
The top tweeter gathering rust and dust on a shelf is a 100mm Sony balanced Drive with a 28mm aperture, the bottom a 94mm Visaton DT94 mylar dome.
Both quite good, as it goes. These are standard sizes. Tweeters tend to be 88-91 dB at nominal 8 ohms (which is 6 ohms DCR usually). Some are 4 ohms or 3 ohms DCR.
You might be able to fit a piece of ply and a really small tweeter too. For instance:
https://www.seas.no/index.php?optio...cg&catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&Itemid=239
I have no answers at this stage, but the more you tell us, the more we can help.
Added country and other useful information on my profile, thank you!
I tried to repair the dust cover of the woofers that had that issue. I used super strong duct tape to pull the dust cover out without causing damage to it.
On one of the woofers, the glue that is supposed to keep the dust cover attached and sealed on the speaker cone has been gone.
What type of glue should I use to seal the hole shown in the pic bellow?
Is epoxy glue 2 component suitable for this type of application?
Should I use silicon glue? Am I right that cyanoacrylate glue (commonly known as super glue is not suitable for this kind of job?
Btw I will post more pics with measurements about the tweeter issue as soon as I find some time.
I tried to repair the dust cover of the woofers that had that issue. I used super strong duct tape to pull the dust cover out without causing damage to it.
On one of the woofers, the glue that is supposed to keep the dust cover attached and sealed on the speaker cone has been gone.
What type of glue should I use to seal the hole shown in the pic bellow?
Is epoxy glue 2 component suitable for this type of application?
Should I use silicon glue? Am I right that cyanoacrylate glue (commonly known as super glue is not suitable for this kind of job?
Btw I will post more pics with measurements about the tweeter issue as soon as I find some time.
I have never done this. but I know that very few glues stick to plastic or polypropylene well. I think the idea is rubbery sort of glues are best.
So things like bicycle innertube cement or even roof and gutter sealant: which must stick shiny plastics well:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-roof-gutter-sealant-black-310ml/67521
Teh interwebs suggest this obscure stuff too, Aleen's glue:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleenes-Premium-Original-Tacky-Craft/dp/B005Z463A2
2 part epoxy is very good for most things, but I really don't know.
You could do a test with a soft plastic bottle and a bit of fabric I suppose....
You'll want to clean up first with a blade, avoiding debris falling into the voice-coil. Then apply glue with a toothpick or something.
Maybe someone else knows more! 🙂
So things like bicycle innertube cement or even roof and gutter sealant: which must stick shiny plastics well:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-roof-gutter-sealant-black-310ml/67521
Teh interwebs suggest this obscure stuff too, Aleen's glue:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleenes-Premium-Original-Tacky-Craft/dp/B005Z463A2
2 part epoxy is very good for most things, but I really don't know.
You could do a test with a soft plastic bottle and a bit of fabric I suppose....
You'll want to clean up first with a blade, avoiding debris falling into the voice-coil. Then apply glue with a toothpick or something.
Maybe someone else knows more! 🙂
...I was going to suggest to try to see if some cheap tweeters are available locally. Those little magnets suggest a 10€ price such as the La Voce TN100.70
It depends (the possibility of working it out) on the impedance of the tweeter, either. Is there another thread that I 'm unaware of?!?
Little Peerless units can be had for 20-25€ and are 4 and 8 Ohm standard.
SB Acoustic has a vast catalogue, the plastic flange could be cut easily (?) and/or the box adapted (... slanted baffle)...
Yeah any tweeter....
It depends (the possibility of working it out) on the impedance of the tweeter, either. Is there another thread that I 'm unaware of?!?
Little Peerless units can be had for 20-25€ and are 4 and 8 Ohm standard.
SB Acoustic has a vast catalogue, the plastic flange could be cut easily (?) and/or the box adapted (... slanted baffle)...
Yeah any tweeter....
For the tweeters you may have replace the diaphragm. Since it is not clear what make it is you probably have to replace the entire tweeter.
On ebay there are quite a few dome diaphragms on sale( search "tweeter diaphragm"). Finding a close one that matches exactly yours might be impossible. They are not cheap either so...
I would probably get a cheap same sized dome tweeter and retrofit your face plate.
For the woofer dust cap you could try few methods in below video.
And yes cats and kids are the reasons I grille my speakers 🙂
On ebay there are quite a few dome diaphragms on sale( search "tweeter diaphragm"). Finding a close one that matches exactly yours might be impossible. They are not cheap either so...
I would probably get a cheap same sized dome tweeter and retrofit your face plate.
For the woofer dust cap you could try few methods in below video.
And yes cats and kids are the reasons I grille my speakers 🙂
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For the woofers I used the duct tape method. It worked well.
As for the unglued dust cap from the cone issue, I think I will give it a go with the glue that I have in hand here, Bison Epoxy universal. I know it's not the best for polypropylene, that is the material the cone is made off, right?
But I have almost nothing to loose, this is a super low budget repair project and I didn't find the time to work on the dead tweeter issue and even worse the totally burnt crossover (I will post pics of the burnt crossover as soon as I can)
As for the unglued dust cap from the cone issue, I think I will give it a go with the glue that I have in hand here, Bison Epoxy universal. I know it's not the best for polypropylene, that is the material the cone is made off, right?
But I have almost nothing to loose, this is a super low budget repair project and I didn't find the time to work on the dead tweeter issue and even worse the totally burnt crossover (I will post pics of the burnt crossover as soon as I can)
With the very greatest of respect, an' all that, @markbakk, that is a pretty useless post! 🤣
You don't tell us which of this six glues is suitable for polypropylene!
I think the matter of fixing dented dustcaps has been done to death too. I am sure you could use a vacuum cleaner or something to carefully suck it back into shape. I use a bent pin or paperclip and block the hole with PVA woodglue.
Works for me. 🙂
I coated my Vifa P20's 30 years ago with this, impossible to get it off...
https://global.microless.com/product/araldite-epoxy-blue/
https://global.microless.com/product/araldite-epoxy-blue/