I did designs in 10", 12" and 15", but yes, I used high quality drivers always. What's the point in using junk?But most of your systems are also done with high quality woofers that are 12 inch or bigger or so?
There is that of course, but I also want to delay the reflections as much as possible. The higher the DI the more delay - on average - there will be in the early reflections.thankyou both I need to do a bit more reading on the di I roughly understand it but not enough .so are you aiming to have the reflections from the room having the same balance as the direct sound ?
The TS parameters only define the first fundamental resonance of the driver beyond that only the BL actually matters, but since I always used high efficiency drivers this was not of much importance either. Since the fundamental resonance is always in the modal range of the room (for home HF) it gets swamped by the modes and matters not. Once you have multiple subs and DSP control, the TS of any of the drivers makes little to no difference.Could you elaborate on why, again? I think I want to ask, At what frequency does TS values begin to matter? Is it a matter of excursion? Nothing matters at 1-2mm of excursion?
And I would never recommend using an 8" or 10" driver as a sub - kind of a ridiculous idea for home HiFi.Wouldn't recommend that for like a good 8 or 10 inch subwoofer.
1 - Not everyone has the space for it.I did designs in 10", 12" and 15", but yes, I used high quality drivers always. What's the point in using junk?
2 - Not everyone has a money tree in the backyard.
3 - Not everyone has a significant other who likes such things.
So it's great that you have all that freedom for yourself, and it that case I also wouldn't bother about distortion or much else.
Fact is that most 5 or 6 inch woofers are limited in what they can do.
Not only that, but there also seems to be more "junk" in the size bracket in general.
Even from high quality and high-end manufactures.
Be grateful for the space you have Earl. 🙂And I would never recommend using an 8" or 10" driver as a sub - kind of a ridiculous idea for home HiFi.
I think that you don't realize that there are MANY people across the globe that don't have that luxury.
They have to make due with the space they have.
I never said that I designed "average" setups. My goal was always "premium" ones but with "value" and "optimum" as a central tenant. I never deliberately over-engineered - I worked in automotive far too long for that to be the case.Definitely not your average setup and general approach.
Once you have multiple subs and DSP control, the TS of any of the drivers makes little to no difference.
Whats wrong with Dayton for example? Is it high quality? What about any other cheap driver? What is the "quality" that needs to be high?I used high quality drivers always.
My condolences!I think that you don't realize that there are MANY people across the globe that don't have that luxury.
They have to make due with the space they have.
Yea, midwestern US is not a place where space is at a premium. And there are plenty of us living here.
I have never used Dayton so I can't comment. Having worked at B&C I found that they were designed very well, decent prices with very high quality and reliability. After I started using them I never looked back. But sure, there are lots of good drivers out there - it's kind of a commodity anymore.Whats wrong with Dayton? Is it high quality?
I should add that I did use Dayton Passive Radiators and found the reliability to be very poor, but that's a different animal.
I went out of my way to find drivers that had this under control. Most didn't, some did.You feel no need to avoid it with a crossover?
I know, but it's very important to let people know from what frame of mind or context you're talking.I never said that I designed "average" setups. My goal was always "premium" ones but with "value" and "optimum" as a central tenant. I never deliberately over-engineered - I worked in automotive far too long for that to be the case.
Because that matters A LOT!
And there are significantly more people not living there.My condolences!
Yea, midwestern US is not a place where space is at a premium. And there are plenty of us living here.
I am not disagreeing Earl, in fact I have told people many times that if they want premium sound quality, just go for big and play it on baby sound pressure levels.
Result was that I was getting a lot of hate for that.
To be perfectly fair, I can't blame them.
Because explaining a solution that's just not viable for a lot of people is just not very useful in the practical sense.
ok ok ok just making sure I wasn't crazy.... These are things that are not predictable through TS, is what you are suggesting.I went out of my way to find drivers that had this under control. Most didn't, some did.
I think Q gives a clue or at least some light in the Dark. Higher damping leads to less decay, generally speaking.
This is absolutely true and important. LF sources should never be a Q higher than 1.0, more like .7 (I assumed un EQ'd here, with EQ, nothing matters.)I think Q gives a clue or at least some light in the Dark. Higher damping leads to less decay, generally speaking.
In my designs low Q just comes with the territory of high efficiency - they are one and the same for all practical purposes. Adding Bl basically raises the midrange, thus lowering the Q.
The website is malfunctioning, there are no real modifications of a quote.You are being asked again not to add your own accents or to otherwise modify anything within quotes. This doesn't generally bode well for you with other members, and it is covered in Rule 12.![]()
I could take the above quote: and delete words and get
Or I can initially create the quote by only selecting "You are being asked" ..... by deleting within the quote, it sets the alarm off. Both ways of creating the quote ends with the same resulted quote, but I think when I delete the words I don't want to quote, its saying that I am changing someones quote....You are being asked
I think that I have been very transparent about my assumptions.I know, but it's very important to let people know from what frame of mind or context you're talking.
Absolutely, but the way I look at it is that there is always someone out there for which a proposed solution is viable - I guess that I am speaking to them.Because explaining a solution that's just not viable for a lot of people is just not very useful in the practical sense.
Most definitely not to the point where Altec told me to XO no higher than the mean between Fs, VC frequency to ensure being in a point source's pistonic BW.These are things that are not predictable through TS, is what you are suggesting.
@gedlee All I am trying to say is that you seem to talk from just your frame of reference, while others are trying to talk from a more general point of view.
Which gets confusing after a while for people.
Some nuances are drastically different.
I am not saying that one us better than the other. I just noticed that the result is that people start to talk past each other.
Which gets confusing after a while for people.
Some nuances are drastically different.
I am not saying that one us better than the other. I just noticed that the result is that people start to talk past each other.
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