Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest

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#2,746
maltboy1 said:
Why am I not surprised? 🙂 Are there any posts that explain how this is done? Any extra diodes or switches?
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as IAIMH said

RCA out is simply paralleled to XLR out (GND, Pos), and you can run them in same time to 2 different amps

though, worth noting for all interested - no preamp is happy when you run 2 amps in same time practically from same output while one amp is ON and second Off

some non-powered amp inputs are acting as semi-black hole, especially those having JFet input

anyone surprised hearing F4 singing faintly, even without power?
 
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#2,747
maltboy1 said:
Thanks! Sorry for the dumb questions. It's the first preamp I've built, and it's a little daunting to be honest.
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Any time. NEVER a dumb question. Shout whenever you have questions. There are a few things that can be a tad daunting, and maybe a few things that could be more clear. Review everything in the first post, and go from there.

This is from a self-appointed dodo. This stuff ain't easy. The reason I can even answer a few of these questions is because I had them so recently ago myself... that I can still remember the answer. :rofl:
 
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#2,748
maltboy1 said:
Thanks! Sorry for the dumb questions. It's the first preamp I've built, and it's a little daunting to be honest.
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These are essentially questions to completing the preamp, and the answers are all in this thread (several times over), but this thread has gotten a bit unwieldy. There was talk of a build guide…is that still a possibility?
 
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#2,751
^ Maybe shoot them a PM and offer your assistance. I'm sure it would be welcome. You're always amazing at helping folks out, and I know I've greatly appreciated the help in the forums when I've had questions. IMO, you'd be a great fit perhaps to help with guides, but in fairness... I only have a small amount of knowledge re: the system etc., and I don't want to overstep bounds. Best for you to have a direct conversation.
 
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#2,753
You need a two pin header for the balanced, correct. See the parts list in post #1.

They're sold widely on many on-line market places. They're nothing particularly special. Here is a part number from Mouser if you happen to be placing an order.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/10129378-902001BLF?qs=0lQeLiL1qybv6C1q0T3/Pw==

The only thing that really matters is the leg spacing (2.54mm) ... Some people like gold. It's shiny. Square pins vs. round is nice.

When I don't need them to be exact / pretty and just beautiful to put in kits... I buy the strips of 40 "breakaway" headers and just pop off what I need.

https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Bre...8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Enjoy!
 
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#2,754
@maltboy1 - One last thought. It may be sacrilege, but ... if you're willing to potentially walk on the wild side... you really don't even need a header and header cap. I'd bet a nice meal that in more than 90% of situations with a balanced build, that the cap won't come off again after it's installed.

You could... save a few pennies and some hassle if you don't already have the parts and just put a wire jumper in after you null your offset...

For SE... it's nice to have the header / header cap in case people want to change the gain... for balanced... go for what makes you happy.

Just sayin' 😉
 
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