I contacted SVS to see if they can sell me an empty cabinet with the plate amp but they won't because I don't have a serial # to match a sale of the subwoofer. Pretty lame excuse but whatever. I own an office furniture company that builds custom cabinets so I have a million options. I have this external subwoofer amp: https://solen.ca/en/products/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable.
I'm thinking of just recreating the SB 1000 with the same box dimensions. I'll just lose the "Pro" aspect of it because I won't be able to control it from my phone.
Any other suggestions? Does anybody know what the cutout should be for the 12" SVS driver? I've been told 11".
Thank for any help!
I'm thinking of just recreating the SB 1000 with the same box dimensions. I'll just lose the "Pro" aspect of it because I won't be able to control it from my phone.
Any other suggestions? Does anybody know what the cutout should be for the 12" SVS driver? I've been told 11".
Thank for any help!
Duplicating the PB-1000 Pro box 15 x 18.9 x 20" dimensions and lining should be a good start.
This article has the port dimensions:
https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/svs-pb-1000-pro-sb-1000-pro
Measuring your driver for the cutout size will be a trivial task compared to the cabinet construction 😉
This article has the port dimensions:
https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/svs-pb-1000-pro-sb-1000-pro
Measuring your driver for the cutout size will be a trivial task compared to the cabinet construction 😉
Wow , the SB-1000 driver is a tiny 20$ Chinese OEM , even a 12" polk has 3X the magnet and 2X the VC. 800$ /325W?? what a scam.I contacted SVS to see if they can sell me an empty cabinet with the plate amp but they won't because I don't have a serial # to match a sale of the subwoofer. Pretty lame excuse but whatever. I own an office furniture company that builds custom cabinets so I have a million options. I have this external subwoofer amp: https://solen.ca/en/products/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable.
I'm thinking of just recreating the SB 1000 with the same box dimensions. I'll just lose the "Pro" aspect of it because I won't be able to control it from my phone.
Any other suggestions? Does anybody know what the cutout should be for the 12" SVS driver? I've been told 11".
Thank for any help!
For comparison , a cheap Skar audio 12" has a 3 inch voice-coil and could really handle 300W+. The only advantage to the SB driver is that
you could get Xmax with the cheapest 17$ class D Alibaba amp. So <40$ in Alibaba components + a box = 800$ - wow ! HT subwoofers are
the max "scamerica" of any of the consumer electronic offerings. Kliptch is as bad , Polk is not bad with 2" voice-coils and fat magnets. Amps
on all of them (as well as parts express plate amps) are total junk.
PS- you would be better off just buying a 90$ "real" woofer (below) and powering it with a used "real" subwoofer (outboard or DIY) amp.
That 12" below really can handle a "real" 200W amp.
OS
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Yeah I was a little surprised too. But I have two other SVS 1000 Pros and they sound great and would like it all to be matching as much as possible.
I'm usually DIY'ing. I built the Elsinore Speaker Project years ago. Someday I'd like to build a massive subwoofer using Peerless subs.
I'm usually DIY'ing. I built the Elsinore Speaker Project years ago. Someday I'd like to build a massive subwoofer using Peerless subs.
I just bought one of these (below) for 100$ - The Skar above sounded real good but they mis-represented the cutout and outside diameter specs
(don't fit the box). I'm returning the Skar. Glad I did , this one ("ULTRA -below) can go lower than most car subs and is 90db efficient. 35mm Xmax is an added benefit (for just 100$). link - https://www.ebay.com/itm/133555744366? they have 6 left and It specs out nice to my 2.4 cu ft. box !
I've had it with all these Chinese drivers... "proudly made in the USA" - yeah !
I did find the original PDF for this "real" driver. I did not mean to pick on your SVS driver .... but they must really tweak it (ELF + class D) to ,make it do
what the Ultra will do natively.
OS
(don't fit the box). I'm returning the Skar. Glad I did , this one ("ULTRA -below) can go lower than most car subs and is 90db efficient. 35mm Xmax is an added benefit (for just 100$). link - https://www.ebay.com/itm/133555744366? they have 6 left and It specs out nice to my 2.4 cu ft. box !
I've had it with all these Chinese drivers... "proudly made in the USA" - yeah !
I did find the original PDF for this "real" driver. I did not mean to pick on your SVS driver .... but they must really tweak it (ELF + class D) to ,make it do
what the Ultra will do natively.
OS
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A closer look , SVS1000 (below 1) - 35mm VC , no vented pole piece .
With such a small diameter spider .... 25mm Xmax ?? I was right , a proprietary DSP software to
control the excursion. So you are paying for the DSP "magic" that makes this woofer perform like
the "ULTRA" , even as it isn't. So without the magic DSP , it would perform like a $129 Polk.
Ohhh , 2 75mm sewer pipes (below 2) and the magic DSP. I don't see how 25mm Xmax would not have port noise
with just 75cm squared (port area). I had a polk with (single) 75cm and it had port noise at full volume.
Not "picking" on this unit , but I am TRULY amazed at this level of scam aimed at the consumer.
Even the MDF is crazy thin , bet the SVS woofer would break the front panel if dropped. I found a Klipsch 12" (below 3) that
had the woofer INSIDE the cabinet after being dropped - the woofer still worked ( same 35mm VC and no venting).
I'd be angry if I paid $800 for this stuff !!!
PS - these OEM's are not even "speaker porn" (subjective) he he !
Hmmm , all these OEM's seem to do the same scam. only difference is some charge <200$ ... and some charge >500$ -
"perceived value" ??
OS
With such a small diameter spider .... 25mm Xmax ?? I was right , a proprietary DSP software to
control the excursion. So you are paying for the DSP "magic" that makes this woofer perform like
the "ULTRA" , even as it isn't. So without the magic DSP , it would perform like a $129 Polk.
Ohhh , 2 75mm sewer pipes (below 2) and the magic DSP. I don't see how 25mm Xmax would not have port noise
with just 75cm squared (port area). I had a polk with (single) 75cm and it had port noise at full volume.
Not "picking" on this unit , but I am TRULY amazed at this level of scam aimed at the consumer.
Even the MDF is crazy thin , bet the SVS woofer would break the front panel if dropped. I found a Klipsch 12" (below 3) that
had the woofer INSIDE the cabinet after being dropped - the woofer still worked ( same 35mm VC and no venting).
I'd be angry if I paid $800 for this stuff !!!
PS - these OEM's are not even "speaker porn" (subjective) he he !
Hmmm , all these OEM's seem to do the same scam. only difference is some charge <200$ ... and some charge >500$ -
"perceived value" ??
OS
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I forgot to add , that Dayton sub amp would absolutely devastate the SVS driver , I fried the VC of the bigger polk 12"
with a smaller ( 4 device) output stage. I only use a 100W class AB with the Klipsch - full Xmax.
OS
with a smaller ( 4 device) output stage. I only use a 100W class AB with the Klipsch - full Xmax.
OS
the SVS and Klipsch driver
both look like vented spiders.
assume the normal 8 to 12mm xmax
which is over rated using peak to peak at 24mm
36 mm likely peak to peak as well = 18mm
but yah never know.
both look like vented spiders.
assume the normal 8 to 12mm xmax
which is over rated using peak to peak at 24mm
36 mm likely peak to peak as well = 18mm
but yah never know.
Klipsch won't do much over 25mm before it get real noisy (free air). VC started venting warm air @ 125W. I ran the Skar forthe SVS and Klipsch driver
both look like vented spiders.
assume the normal 8 to 12mm xmax
which is over rated using peak to peak at 24mm
36 mm likely peak to peak as well = 18mm
but yah never know.
2 hours at 225W (20mm P-P) , no smell , just slightly warm air at the pole vent. The Skar is also a scam power rating , over-rated at 1KW.
But , the Skar sounded real nice in the ported box , I was amazed at 90$. I break these woofers in before I "box" em , monitor temp.
woofer porn. Even more than that "ultra". Not as efficient - low 80's 1W.Sometimes you want those outside the cab.
Just to look at them.
Nice
Yes indeed
It is fun hearing these types over the years.
Some look impressive but drink power and inductance is horrible.
My favorites start leaning towards the typical 12 or 14mm drivers
because they perform well around 60 to 100 watts
similar to the SVS
One of my favorites is about same magnet and vented spider.
Goes very deep actually and upper detail above 120 Hz is still
good.

It is fun hearing these types over the years.
Some look impressive but drink power and inductance is horrible.
My favorites start leaning towards the typical 12 or 14mm drivers
because they perform well around 60 to 100 watts
similar to the SVS
One of my favorites is about same magnet and vented spider.
Goes very deep actually and upper detail above 120 Hz is still
good.

Oh yeah , the GRS ! Well made in China (still). I have the 8" version of that - 10 years
and still going.
I want to move up to the >30mm Xmax drivers. I did not like most of the auto 12" offerings with crappy SPL/1W (83db). My box has 150CM/2
port area tuned to 25hz. I should have no port noise with even 40mm.
"Lord of bass" even sells the cone,basket, and coil for that "ultra" 12".
and still going.
I want to move up to the >30mm Xmax drivers. I did not like most of the auto 12" offerings with crappy SPL/1W (83db). My box has 150CM/2
port area tuned to 25hz. I should have no port noise with even 40mm.
"Lord of bass" even sells the cone,basket, and coil for that "ultra" 12".
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- I have a brand new sealed 12" SVS woofer out of a PB 1000 Pro. What should I do with it?