Hello, as the title says im building a 3way loudspeaker and im having trouble with using or not a lpad in the tweeter.
The tweeters has a sensitivity of 94db
the midrange is 87db
and the bass driver is 81.9 db, (also i should add that im using 2 bass drivers in parallel wich should give me a +3db boost).
Here are the two crossover variants that im trying to decide between.
I listened to both of them and i can hear the diference but im not sure what is the most correct.
I also dont like the impedance spike caused by the 2,2uF capacitor, is this bad for the amplifier and speakers?
The Lpad makes the tweeter sound muffled, not using it solves that problem but now im worried that it is too much what should i do?
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The tweeters has a sensitivity of 94db
the midrange is 87db
and the bass driver is 81.9 db, (also i should add that im using 2 bass drivers in parallel wich should give me a +3db boost).
Here are the two crossover variants that im trying to decide between.
I listened to both of them and i can hear the diference but im not sure what is the most correct.
I also dont like the impedance spike caused by the 2,2uF capacitor, is this bad for the amplifier and speakers?
The Lpad makes the tweeter sound muffled, not using it solves that problem but now im worried that it is too much what should i do?
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Hmm, dual drivers in parallel gets you +6 dB, +3 for doubling of piston area/+3 for 2x power up to the point where the spacing is too great, then collapses to +3 dB.
Way back when we used a pot to shelve to 'taste' 😉, then found the right size capacitor to 'let through' the desired amount of HF BW (AKA CD horn EQ); a good plan in your case as it mostly gets rid of the ~1.5 kHz peak in the 'whack'/'tinny' BW, so might consider a change to flatten or even put a dip there.
Way back when we used a pot to shelve to 'taste' 😉, then found the right size capacitor to 'let through' the desired amount of HF BW (AKA CD horn EQ); a good plan in your case as it mostly gets rid of the ~1.5 kHz peak in the 'whack'/'tinny' BW, so might consider a change to flatten or even put a dip there.
It's probably a lack of balance that makes it sound muffled. The L-pad itself is just a tool to modify the response.
When you get the tweeter close to the correct level you start hearing problems with blending it into the overall sound. Otherwise when the level is too high or low, that is more likely to be the thing you'll hear about it.
Did you replace the 2Ω resistor with a wire? If so, the load on the 2.2uf capacitor is less than 2Ω due to the 3Ω parallel resistor.
Your 4Ω tweeter is crossing around 40khz.
Your 4Ω tweeter is crossing around 40khz.
yes, i did replace the 2ohm resistor with a wire, but i also removed the 3ohm parallel resistor, im not sure i understand what you are saying.
thanks for the info, but im not sure what to do next, i think i will try just using a resistor in series instead of a lpad, does that even work? idk i have to go to work, i will think about it during the day, im happy with the overall result of the build, its only my 2nd attempt at speaker build!
In your first simulation, it looks like tweeter level is a bit too low, hence the muffled sound.
You can adjust L-pad attenuation by changing resistor values. Current combination gives -6,7dB attenuation and 3,7ohm final impedance.
Try 1,5ohm series / 7,5ohm parallel. That gives -4db / 4,1ohm respectively.
I guess LCR across tweeter is impedance compensation at Fs?
The L-pad will flatten the tweeter impedance seen by crossover, so I believe LCR isnt necessary. Try to disconnect it.
10uF series cap for tweeter seems ok, but you may try slightly lower value to fine tune the crossing.
You can adjust L-pad attenuation by changing resistor values. Current combination gives -6,7dB attenuation and 3,7ohm final impedance.
Try 1,5ohm series / 7,5ohm parallel. That gives -4db / 4,1ohm respectively.
I guess LCR across tweeter is impedance compensation at Fs?
The L-pad will flatten the tweeter impedance seen by crossover, so I believe LCR isnt necessary. Try to disconnect it.
10uF series cap for tweeter seems ok, but you may try slightly lower value to fine tune the crossing.
In your second simulation the 3Ω parallel resistor looks like it's still there. Am I seeing that wrong?
hello, just a quick update, i stuck to the lpad but changed the series resistor value to 1ohm and i liked it, without lpad it just sounds too bright, i wanted to avoid using it but oh well.
So rn im just trying to hear the diference between the original lpad (2ohm series resistor and 3ohm parallel resistor) and a new lpad with 1ohm series resistor and 3ohm parallel.
Here is what the "new" lpad looks like
So rn im just trying to hear the diference between the original lpad (2ohm series resistor and 3ohm parallel resistor) and a new lpad with 1ohm series resistor and 3ohm parallel.
Here is what the "new" lpad looks like