I would like to share with you the my good experience with these drivers able to give extreme performances better than Ceramic drivers.
The distortion is considerably less than that present on my ceramic drivers and I'm not talking about something just measurable but a substantial improvement in listening.
The Purifi mid-woofer integrates perfectly with the AMT tweeter returning a fast and detailed mid-range with plenty of separation between the instruments.
I will share the complete project with a H-frame dipole subwoofer created with a normal pro 18" and active filter.
The distortion is considerably less than that present on my ceramic drivers and I'm not talking about something just measurable but a substantial improvement in listening.
The Purifi mid-woofer integrates perfectly with the AMT tweeter returning a fast and detailed mid-range with plenty of separation between the instruments.
I will share the complete project with a H-frame dipole subwoofer created with a normal pro 18" and active filter.
The PTT6.5X08-NAA-08 have an incredible low frequency dynamics and extension for a 6.5" that normally can only be achieved with an 8" so if used in a bass reflex configuration we can create a true full-range with a frequency range 50Hz - 20KHz without the subwoofer.
What are other conditions of ceramic vs. Pufifi measuremnts, how far from speakers was mic, is level actual level at measuring point or normalized?
I have used an old K.C.S. 18" S-1846 woofer with active filter to compensate the dipole
how are those filters implemented. I'm slowly collecting parts to do this type of thing I e got loads of speakers a umik1 and now finally motu interface I just can't get my head round the software . what do you use please?
The filters are the result of many and many measurements and listening with various chokes and various capacitors, I no longer waste time with simulations 🙂
I use Minidsp mic umik1 with Arta or REW and DATS for impedance
I use Minidsp mic umik1 with Arta or REW and DATS for impedance
| n. | C1 (nF) | C2 = 2xC1 | R1 and R2 | C1 (F) | C2 (F) | F (Hz) |
1 | 150 | 300 | 3570 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 210,0 |
2 | 150 | 300 | 4120 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 182,0 |
3 | 150 | 300 | 4700 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 159,5 |
4 | 150 | 300 | 5490 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 136,6 |
5 | 150 | 300 | 6200 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 120,9 |
6 | 150 | 300 | 7150 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 104,9 |
7 | 150 | 300 | 8250 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 90,9 |
8 | 150 | 300 | 9530 | 0,000000150 | 0,0000003 | 78,7 |
R2 100Kohm 1/4W 1%
R3,R11,R19,R27 3570ohm 1/4W 1%
R4,R12,R20,R28 4120ohm 1/4W 1%
R5,R13,R21,R29 4700ohm 1/4W 1%
R6,R14,R22,R30 5490ohm 1/4W 1%
R7,R15,R23,R31 6200ohm 1/4W 1%
R8,R16,R24,R32 7150ohm 1/4W 1%
R9,R17,R25,R33 8250ohm 1/4W 1%
R10,R18,R26,R34 9530ohm 1/4W 1%
R40,R41 270ohm 1/4W 1%
R38,R39 3000ohm 1/4W 1%
R36 56Kohm 1/4W 1%
R35 3Kohm 1/4W 1%
R37 0ohm
C1,C2,C3.C4,C11,C12 0.15uF WIMA MKP
C5,C8 0.22uF WIMA MKP
C6,C7 470uF 35V
C9,C10 100uF 25V
IC1,IC2 NE5532
U$1 LM317
U$2 LM337
B1 diode bridge 1A
SW1,SW2,SW3,SW4 dip switch 8 way
Gerber and Eagle CAD files are available.
so cool !!! so it's not an active crossover as such you filter the signal to remove any frequency you choose by selecting a combination of different dip switches
you designed it and had a pcb made I'm guessing ?
you designed it and had a pcb made I'm guessing ?