So after pulling what little hair I have left. Due to the lack of TS for any speaker made in my country. I deicded to bite the bullet and just buy a Dats V3.
This is my first speaker build and this is the spec for the 10 Inch woofer I plan to use.
I plan to add a tweeter and a Midrange will add those scans also in a bit.
Im sorry I dont have a calibrated Mic as of yet but am working on getting one.
Questions
1. What freq would you cross this driver.
2. Do you think this will give me good bass. Or will I need to buy a Sub also. Was kinda hoping this would do a decent job on the bass. Given a large enough box. In WinISD it recomends a pretty large box 85+ Ltrs.
This is a cheap budget woofer. So Im not expecting special. But it does sound pretty decent when I hooked it up direct to my amp.
Once my box building confidence grows can think of costlier and better drivers.
This is my first speaker build and this is the spec for the 10 Inch woofer I plan to use.
I plan to add a tweeter and a Midrange will add those scans also in a bit.
Im sorry I dont have a calibrated Mic as of yet but am working on getting one.
Questions
1. What freq would you cross this driver.
2. Do you think this will give me good bass. Or will I need to buy a Sub also. Was kinda hoping this would do a decent job on the bass. Given a large enough box. In WinISD it recomends a pretty large box 85+ Ltrs.
This is a cheap budget woofer. So Im not expecting special. But it does sound pretty decent when I hooked it up direct to my amp.
Once my box building confidence grows can think of costlier and better drivers.
Lacking any other details, then based solely on at least -24 dB/~48 Hz Fs: ~768 Hz/1st, 192 Hz/2nd, 341 Hz/3rd, 96 Hz/4th order
If limited to ~8 ohms: ~500 Hz/2nd the pioneer's most often used XO since it was/still is? the acoustic half power point of a 75 pc. orchestra plus contains most of the male's lower voice, so a good/excellent choice overall depending on one's performance goals.
If limited to ~8 ohms: ~500 Hz/2nd the pioneer's most often used XO since it was/still is? the acoustic half power point of a 75 pc. orchestra plus contains most of the male's lower voice, so a good/excellent choice overall depending on one's performance goals.
This is another issue which keeps me up nights lol. When you say limited to 8 ohms.
I'm confused. Because I have built a few cross overs using X-Sim crossing at 1K, 500, 300. Ill share the cross over I came up with in X-Sim. How do I figure out my ohms?. The Speaker says 5.78 Ohms. But Im also using a 8 Ohm midrange and a 4 Ohm tweeter. All feed via a cross over. So what is my final Ohms that my amp will be seeing. Do I just hook up everything and measure at the cross over ?. Do I add all 3 ohm values and average ?
Why do you say limited at 8 Ohms. I asked around about what speakers to buy and most of my audio friends said get the 8 Ohms if your going for a 3 way setup.
Allen B thanks for that Tip. My laptop has a Mic in port so I dont have to bother with USB. I also purchased a simple Mic and am thinking of building a small PCB with an opamp to make my own mic. Been reading up on how to calibrate any mic in REW and create your own calibration file.
It's the driver's nominal impedance rating, so I just looked at the impedance response to see where inductance rise crossed 8 ohms then would have reactance annulled Re, so technically should have recommended ~7.25 ohms/350 Hz, but the 500 Hz/2nd has too many decades of proven performance, so why mess with success? 😉
Are you advising against usb-mic ? or saying it should be? A word or two on why? Thanks
There are cheap USB mics and better ones. These are simply mics like the Dayton and Beringer but with a built—in mic pre-amp, ADC, computer interface. They should be more streamlined than the “same” mic with a mic pre and software calibration you input.
Mine is a lighting interface but just fine for diy use. I habd given away 3 or 4 of my Beringers.
But USB and Windoz cam be a nightmare, much less of an issue if you are using a Mac.
dave
Mine is a lighting interface but just fine for diy use. I habd given away 3 or 4 of my Beringers.
But USB and Windoz cam be a nightmare, much less of an issue if you are using a Mac.
dave
The USB interface is not time critical. A USB hub is designed to fit around all other connected devices. You cannot have a mic signal sent 'whenever the interface feels like it' when you're trying to time audio signals to get delay/phase right.
1) impedance shows resonances around 700 Hz -1 kHz and at 2 kHz. i would avoid these in the passband. but measure the frequency response first and see what the resonances really do.
2) I would try a slightly smaller enclosure (here 60 liters) with a big series cap (np electrolytic 500 uF) as a possible solution for good bass without huge enclosure. this is the resulting hornresp response graph, using your TSP:
2) I would try a slightly smaller enclosure (here 60 liters) with a big series cap (np electrolytic 500 uF) as a possible solution for good bass without huge enclosure. this is the resulting hornresp response graph, using your TSP:
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It doesn't 'see', it 'feels'. 😉 Measure at the amp to find out what it 'feels'. No.
Mulling this over begs a question.
Is this overcome if going through software that uses an external/dedicated soundcard? I just find it hard to get a perspective on how such a fundametal flaw can be overlooked or ignored.
No, not if the mic itself is USB.
It is possible to use a USB sound interface, but USB must be taken out of the loop. This means a directly connected mic, source channel and reference channel.
The first thing to look for is that USB mics may have a description that says it's good for room equalisation. Another thing you may notice is an exaggerated take on calibration as a value-added feature.
The author of REW has made a workaround involving a separate reference speaker and extra steps to each measurement, however it is a little complicated and a source of frustration to some.
Just to make absolutely sure I understand what this means . . . . So something like the Clio that (I presume) does all the input processing with the circuitry in its own enclosure and only uses the computer for its GUI, is what you mean?
A USB sound card is OK as long as you use it's input and output channels together and a non-USB mic connected to them.
The sound card has to be ‘full duplex’. The AD and DA have to be in sync. Most offerings are. The Focusrite 2i2 is a popular choice.