This is the labelled socket that I used ...
I found it as a variant for the tube base, but I think you can do it yourself by changing the labelling of the pins if there is not a suitable template.
I found it as a variant for the tube base, but I think you can do it yourself by changing the labelling of the pins if there is not a suitable template.
I gave myself the day to hopefully not express my frustration in the seeming pickiness in how it is labeled, especially in light of not specifying, if I have, sorry.
Serious question, how does one know what someone is requiring when not specified? No one yet has been able to answer this and this is what gets me fired. Neurotypicals live in a world of muddy grays, yet, somehow see clearly, where neurodivergents need black and white to see clearly.
Additionally, my understanding is the sockets do not change for the valves, so if used the diyLC labeling, it be incorrect. So is there a way of changing the setting? Or do the sockets automatically change?
The numbers are on the schematic, firstly, 4 and 5 are heater and on a ECC8* and SL7, 9 is a common earth.
Then for the EF86:
1- Grid one
2-The shield which is grounded
3-Cathode
6-Anode
7-The shield which is grounded
8-Screen
9-Grid two
The ECC8* or SL7:
1-Anode
2-Grid
3-Cathode
6-Anode
7-Grid
8-Cathode
Hi Adriel,
You are making some incorrect assumptions about the tube bases and pin-outs. For example, ECC84 and ECC83 have the same socket, but completely different pin-out. The 6SL7 has a completely different socket and pin-out compared to the ECC83 or 84.
You always neet to look in a tube datasheet to be 100% sure about the socked type and pin-out.
You are making some incorrect assumptions about the tube bases and pin-outs. For example, ECC84 and ECC83 have the same socket, but completely different pin-out. The 6SL7 has a completely different socket and pin-out compared to the ECC83 or 84.
You always neet to look in a tube datasheet to be 100% sure about the socked type and pin-out.
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Not a common earth but a centre tap, enabling the tube to be wired for 6.3V (paralleled, 4-9, 9-5)) or 12.6V (serial, 4-5) heaters,
I don't want to have to do the donkey work to try and understand your drawing. I don't know the circuit, which valve socket corresponds to which tube on the schematic, or what assumptions you have made about the pins on the tube.
So, is this the circuit you are building? Did I see elsewhere you have decided to use Toroidy Output transformers? Have you thought about the enclosure you will be using, if point-to-point is still your first choice? One option there is to start with 1.5mm aluminium plate so it is easy to cut the holes for the tube sockets. Then you can always add a second plate in the future to reinforce it, depending on the overall size of the amplifier.
I have has reasonable success with 3mm aluminium plate, but if you use hole punches then it is getting to the edge of when a hole punch can be used.
I have has reasonable success with 3mm aluminium plate, but if you use hole punches then it is getting to the edge of when a hole punch can be used.
This adds to my concern. I checked, and the labeling is the same for all Novals and all the same for octals. Worse, it says all ECC8* take the same pinout. I have not looked at a data sheet for the ECC84, have not even heard of it (there is a lot of tubes and only know a few).
This then seems to me the best option is to use the numbers in the layout, then start again with the actual.
That is why I provided the list. 🙂 So since there is not an accurate option to label the pins, what do you need to pass critique on the layout?
Sorry, thought it was clear the valve in the upper right (facing the amp it be the forward right valve) is the ECC83/SL7 and the two valves on the left are the EL84s, meaning the bottom right is the EF86.
I have not decided, not yet bought it. Wasn't that what you recommended for a low cost option?
My thinking is buy a nice OPT, not something super exotic though, that could always be used on another design. Partly why wanted to stick with PP, though you point about SE being a better starting point is valid.
Speaking of which, pulled the trigger on those ECL86 SE boards José (@jcalvarez ) found. Someone else not privy to this conversation out of the blue suggested to me an ECL as a first valve.
Oh, and got Polam ECL86s for way less then paid for those inexpensive EL84s, coming from Ukraine.
Four legs attached to perf board on top. Not sure what legs be using, could use stand offs for the time being. My 1950s, with not one safety feature, table saw was stolen and now that in a flat, there is no place to do woodworking anyway, so can't build a frame. If find the design to be finished and wanting to get fancy, then can buy an enclosure.
Good to know. 😀
Polam tubes were part of the Phillips group, based in Poland, and have a good reputation. ECL86s are getting a bit thinner on the ground now, so can be more expensive than an EL84, so sounds like you did well!
I have looked again at you diagram and I just can't work out which component connects to which point. Wires seem to go no where, or merge together.
What was the colouring code convention you were using? Black for ground is probably a good idea. If that light brown was actually ground, then wasting all those tags for a ground bus is not a good use of them. You will need more tags than you think. If you have two many joins at a single point it is hard to make the connection on the tag, and even harder to change anything in the future. For the ground use a thick, self supporting copper wire as a ground bus, grounded at one end, like I showed in my example I shared with you.
I cannot comment on the circuit.
Have you seen this thread?
Simple ECL86 amp
The layout I sent you originally was for a ECL86 PP amp. One consideration is that when you have two tubes combined into a single tube then it can get a bit busy on the tube socket, hence why I spent a lot of time planning my layout.
With this sort of amp some recycled OPTs from an old radio would work well - a lot of old consumer audio equipment just used an SE ECL86 for the audio.
If you are prepared to fork out $200, then TME.EU or Ask Jan First are good sources of transformers, and you should be able to get all 3 for that price. But you must also have plenty of places in the US.
Simple ECL86 amp
The layout I sent you originally was for a ECL86 PP amp. One consideration is that when you have two tubes combined into a single tube then it can get a bit busy on the tube socket, hence why I spent a lot of time planning my layout.
With this sort of amp some recycled OPTs from an old radio would work well - a lot of old consumer audio equipment just used an SE ECL86 for the audio.
If you are prepared to fork out $200, then TME.EU or Ask Jan First are good sources of transformers, and you should be able to get all 3 for that price. But you must also have plenty of places in the US.
I need to leave in a minute, so quickly posting the hopefully more clear diagram for feedback. Will respond later.
Yes, I been searching the forum. 😉 That's why folks are getting likes on very old posts. Ha.
Now come back and think to ask you to please let me know if the colors worked. If not, then thinking to make an exploded diagram.
None as I was being literal rather than consider critique wiring include connections. I don't think there is more than a couple colors in hifi, so went extra colors plus notes to make it legible rather then realistic.
Done.
I don't know of any other option, especially as stars are no longer available.
Where would the extra part come from?
Good to know. 🙂
Ah, I didn't understand that is what you are getting at, appreciate the clarification.
I have not until now.
Not sure what you are referring to, sorry.
Do have one valve as this. 😉
You recommended I start with a PCB board so for fun, asked if there is a ECL86, and by golly José(@jcalvarez ) found one. For $8 plus shipping, can have a go and not feel bad if doesn't work out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225054819433
Trouble is finding them and if do, cost as much as new. Or am I searching wrong?
No, I am part Dutch so I want to get the best deal possible. 😛
If you go back to post #181 and onwards in this thread, you were showing pictures of old tube console amps, and something like that could be the donor for the OPTs.
It's interesting, in e-Bay UK there are many uptions for 3W SE transformers for ECL82/86 etc tubes. But almost nothing in the USA. I guess it makes sense, ECLs are European tubes as far as I remember.
I got such negative feedback that understood not an option.
So do I need to make more changes for the layout to be legible or need to start a new thread?
Before obtaining the horizontal position last night, found some transformers for the PP amp, woke up, and found accepted offers. So, have a Edcor Transformer XPWR124-120 for $80 all expenses and a pair of custom Heyboer 8K for $240 in total (these are very heavy, 6lbs 6oz/3kg for the pair). Yes, did dream of toroidal, however, got to be careful with my money and the Heyboer offers a life long OPT rather then one build plus suspect the highest quality for the price, maybe even new (sometimes paying more doesn't get better sound). Can be solved with placement, oscilloscope, and shielding (per the book).
As for the SE, your suggestion was a good one, found a couple:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1155501051...KDV66bVTzH5bGVYfRuPlhDJw==|tkp:Bk9SR5bo8NHeYQ
I for some reason like this lady's knobs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1448195979...ij68jRu2WrGRJiO2Te+A97dD2V|tkp:Bk9SR4j70dHeYQ
XPWR124 - 640V@150mA CT, 6.3V@4A CT, & 5V@2A
That is close to the spec for a Tubelab SPP - 175mA is recommended. You will have a tube rectifier, something with a 2A filament.
Perhaps ECL86 PP would work? A bit like the Dissident Audio amp I built? What is the spec of the OPTs? SE, PP? UL tap?
That is close to the spec for a Tubelab SPP - 175mA is recommended. You will have a tube rectifier, something with a 2A filament.
Perhaps ECL86 PP would work? A bit like the Dissident Audio amp I built? What is the spec of the OPTs? SE, PP? UL tap?
Yes, I looked up the transformer, plus looked valve data sheets (I been amassing a collection for ease). So did I miscalculate?
Why?
I am amused, as thought want me to stick to one design, yet... 😆 There is that Mullard y'all helped with. I need to put in the correct script for the output tubes. Not sure if that increase the 3 watt output.
Did you happen to look at the ECL82 amp?
640 (320-0-320) is way too high for SPP, you will need to drop a lot of voltage in the rectifier and filters to get close to 300...330v.