The stamp is actually a mechanical fuse, so if it does explode, the direction will be up (normal) or down (not too common), so the parts around it are safe.
And the tube is stronger, as it is holding the foil layers in place.
And the tube is stronger, as it is holding the foil layers in place.
It is so. The OP states that the display has discolored, how did that happen? Cap electrolyte vapors ? I would trust Oppo, as I mentioned, because they would have to have a replacement display.....
'front panel display was more faded than usual'
Faded and discolored are two different things, I think.
OP has not posted with updates.
As for display, I would not know in Canada, try finding parts for obsolete models from years back...difficult.
Faded and discolored are two different things, I think.
OP has not posted with updates.
As for display, I would not know in Canada, try finding parts for obsolete models from years back...difficult.
Here are some more pictures, the caps do not look like they are bulged, what do you guys think?
Also, this seems to be like glue afterall but my question is, why did it turn brown and is the brown substance causing damage to the surrounding parts that it is touching?
Also, this seems to be like glue afterall but my question is, why did it turn brown and is the brown substance causing damage to the surrounding parts that it is touching?
It was the most frequent problem suffered by all Sansui equipment manufactured between 1970 and 1982. It is called the "Glue Factor", or the glue problem.
As a measure of quality, Sansui devised a glue or glue that was applied directly to the board, on the component side, under the electrolytic capacitors of a certain size. This glue had passed the most intense tests of vibration, blows, etc, etc.
Over the years, the glue became corrosive, affecting nearby components, causing corrosion or sulphation.
This ended up generating a chain reaction, generating numerous faults that ranged from small issues to the total burnout of a power stage.
So I insist that it is very rare that in that Oppo team they have put glue from the factory, perhaps from another more stable compound. There is also the possibility that those capacitors have been replaced (they are for AC filtering from the source, it lowers the ripple to levels almost of pure DC) and stuck in some repair . But that does not explain what happens with the display, it follows the path of the glue/acid spilled - or whatever - take pictures of the display and upload them, let's see if Mandrake the magician comes back from fiction and gives us a hand.... 😆
As a measure of quality, Sansui devised a glue or glue that was applied directly to the board, on the component side, under the electrolytic capacitors of a certain size. This glue had passed the most intense tests of vibration, blows, etc, etc.
Over the years, the glue became corrosive, affecting nearby components, causing corrosion or sulphation.
This ended up generating a chain reaction, generating numerous faults that ranged from small issues to the total burnout of a power stage.
So I insist that it is very rare that in that Oppo team they have put glue from the factory, perhaps from another more stable compound. There is also the possibility that those capacitors have been replaced (they are for AC filtering from the source, it lowers the ripple to levels almost of pure DC) and stuck in some repair . But that does not explain what happens with the display, it follows the path of the glue/acid spilled - or whatever - take pictures of the display and upload them, let's see if Mandrake the magician comes back from fiction and gives us a hand.... 😆
The glue can be removed after checking it is bad.
It was used to hold large parts in place during machine soldering and also as a vibration damper.
Japanese caps are rarely used by non-Japanese builds, this seems well built.
Glue can be checked for conductivity with a meter, I think.
As for the display, without a picture, difficult to answer.
It was used to hold large parts in place during machine soldering and also as a vibration damper.
Japanese caps are rarely used by non-Japanese builds, this seems well built.
Glue can be checked for conductivity with a meter, I think.
As for the display, without a picture, difficult to answer.
Blu-Ray means LED or LCD, not VFD.
Check the unit, open it.
LED should mostly be voltage down.
LCD is difficult.
But low voltage could be linked to intermittent freezing, as main supply may be weak.
Bad cap in line is a possible cause for freezing, but dim display (does it flicker?) could have different cause.
Check the unit, open it.
LED should mostly be voltage down.
LCD is difficult.
But low voltage could be linked to intermittent freezing, as main supply may be weak.
Bad cap in line is a possible cause for freezing, but dim display (does it flicker?) could have different cause.
That's glue. It may have changed the specifications due to age/chemical reaction with the surrounding air. You could try to clean it with isopropyl alcohol. Be careful, though.
I just checked my 205... OPPO changed the type of glue. It is more of a glue wax thing (in 205), used in SMPS to prevent things from ringing. That stuff in 105 is nasty.
Use a sharp pointed blade, or simply remove the caps, clean up, and reinstall them.
Degraded glue may be mildly toxic, see it does not touch skin.
Use tweezers etc., wash them later.
Degraded glue may be mildly toxic, see it does not touch skin.
Use tweezers etc., wash them later.
Hi,
I imagine you know how to adjust front pannel brightness of the BDP105: page 77 of the manual. Maybe it's in the DIM mode right now.
The display doesn’t flicker but some of the “dots” are faded, what cap do I need to test that could be causing this? Also, the dimmer is set at normal full brightness … First picture is the camera effect, second pic is more representative of what is seen in real life.
Ninetynine,
I do believe your chasing a phantom ‘problem’.
Does the player work as it should besides a few ‘dim’ pixels?
I have the same Oppo and am the original owner from from day one. Occasionally, the BDP-105 would lock up for no reason..The fix, unplug the unit for a minute and plug it back in. No more glitches.
IMO, the advice your getting to remove caps and scrape old glue (because thats what it is) is going to create way more problems and is not advisable. If your not handy, removing caps that are glued in is not that easy without damaging pads and traces.
Your player is probably built in 2012 or so, just use it until there is a real problem.
Then take my earlier advice and spend your money wisely on a standalone DAC.
Just my 2 cents😁
I do believe your chasing a phantom ‘problem’.
Does the player work as it should besides a few ‘dim’ pixels?
I have the same Oppo and am the original owner from from day one. Occasionally, the BDP-105 would lock up for no reason..The fix, unplug the unit for a minute and plug it back in. No more glitches.
IMO, the advice your getting to remove caps and scrape old glue (because thats what it is) is going to create way more problems and is not advisable. If your not handy, removing caps that are glued in is not that easy without damaging pads and traces.
Your player is probably built in 2012 or so, just use it until there is a real problem.
Then take my earlier advice and spend your money wisely on a standalone DAC.
Just my 2 cents😁
ninetynine, maybe you can still get a new Oppo Sonica Dac. You buy a DAC of the highest sound quality and an infinite music collection if you hire Spotify or Tidal 😉
https://hifiplus.com/articles/oppo-digital-sonica-dac/
https://hifiplus.com/articles/oppo-digital-sonica-dac/
Confirm the ribbon cable is seated properly (red circle). The other end of that ribbon cable might be soldered to the front panel PCB... if it is not, check that (connector) as well. It is probably not soldered, i.e. there'll be 2 connectors to check.
The blue circle shows the power leads coming from the SMPS. The SMPS PCB has voltage values printed... check to confirm each rail is sitting at the appropriate voltage while the DVD player is running (spin a disc... just to load the rails).
The LCD might be faulty, or the LCD row/segments' driver might be faulty. You'll need the schematics for these checks.
OPO Digital Service might have a spare front panel PCB...
The attached power supply PCB is from my 205 - what you need to check are the voltage rails circled in red. I think 105 uses both connectors. Ignore all other arrows and writing...
Good luck.
The blue circle shows the power leads coming from the SMPS. The SMPS PCB has voltage values printed... check to confirm each rail is sitting at the appropriate voltage while the DVD player is running (spin a disc... just to load the rails).
The LCD might be faulty, or the LCD row/segments' driver might be faulty. You'll need the schematics for these checks.
OPO Digital Service might have a spare front panel PCB...
The attached power supply PCB is from my 205 - what you need to check are the voltage rails circled in red. I think 105 uses both connectors. Ignore all other arrows and writing...
Good luck.
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I agree, dim pixels on LCD are difficult.
LED, some dry or weak joints are fixable.
The display would most likely have the driver on the same PCB, a flexible connector would be less reliable.
I would also not mess with it more than seating cables, checking or re flowing solder joints, and checking voltages.
A bad capacitor or leak in the voltage regulator would cause all the pixels to go dim, not like this, random dim and bright.
Please do not go deeper, replacement parts will be difficult to obtain, and at extortionate prices.
Among the reasons I use a PC as DAC...
LED, some dry or weak joints are fixable.
The display would most likely have the driver on the same PCB, a flexible connector would be less reliable.
I would also not mess with it more than seating cables, checking or re flowing solder joints, and checking voltages.
A bad capacitor or leak in the voltage regulator would cause all the pixels to go dim, not like this, random dim and bright.
Please do not go deeper, replacement parts will be difficult to obtain, and at extortionate prices.
Among the reasons I use a PC as DAC...