Hi,
Agree with the boss. Caps first, a no-brainer really.
If new caps don’t solve the problem, a bad SAA7220 might be responsible, it happened to me before with the same symptoms.
Agree with the boss. Caps first, a no-brainer really.
If new caps don’t solve the problem, a bad SAA7220 might be responsible, it happened to me before with the same symptoms.
The old axial are changed now.
But it behaves just the same. It need some forcing help to push the swing arm to track 1, and then it will read TOC.
Its a strange problem on a swing arm pickup. I think you have to do a quick check of the RF when its playing to make sure the quality and amplitude is good. I'm wondering if the pickup is finding it easier to initially focus and lock when you move the arm because it locates over the 'audio' part of the disc rather than the lead in and TOC area. If the amplitude is weak then it may be on the edge of being to initially find focus correctly.
My previous comment is because according to information from Philips that player model was manufactured with the CDM1 transport.
I have not seen any CD104 with the CDM0.
I do not know the reason for the assembly of this transport model, if it was done by a previous owner.
I have read comments from owners who wanted to use CDM0 on a CD104/CD204 and were getting problems.
I'm glad you are a happy owner of that player.
I have not seen any CD104 with the CDM0.
I do not know the reason for the assembly of this transport model, if it was done by a previous owner.
I have read comments from owners who wanted to use CDM0 on a CD104/CD204 and were getting problems.
I'm glad you are a happy owner of that player.
Lubricating CDM-0 drive and RAFOC motor spindles
This is an overspill from an actual lengthy track on troubleshooting a skipping CD-204 (see here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ars-after-rebuild.394489/page-10#post-7251601).
Fully recapped (mostly 2020) with quality caps on all boards (including tantalums on servo board), through-board contacts re-soldered with wires, transistor 6118 replaced. Great RF pattern (about 1V peak-to-peak).
Skipping forward, unlistenable.
After suspecting an electrical problem without good results I put two tiny drops of motor oil into the groove on top of the motor spindle. Immediate improvement. Listenable again, but skipping not totally cured yet (skips on some CDs at some times, does not skip at other times for hours).
I have two questions for the CDM experts:
This is an overspill from an actual lengthy track on troubleshooting a skipping CD-204 (see here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ars-after-rebuild.394489/page-10#post-7251601).
Fully recapped (mostly 2020) with quality caps on all boards (including tantalums on servo board), through-board contacts re-soldered with wires, transistor 6118 replaced. Great RF pattern (about 1V peak-to-peak).
Skipping forward, unlistenable.
After suspecting an electrical problem without good results I put two tiny drops of motor oil into the groove on top of the motor spindle. Immediate improvement. Listenable again, but skipping not totally cured yet (skips on some CDs at some times, does not skip at other times for hours).
I have two questions for the CDM experts:
- How can I get the spindle/shaft out of the CDM-0 motor in order to properly lubricate it?
- Can I get the shaft out of the RAFOC in order to lubricate it (wish to loosen the nut on the underside and pull out the shaft just a little bit) WITHOUT needing to re-align anything?
Oh but you’re wrong!
Many very early CD104 used a CDM0-type brushed motor, it is most definitely original. Not really an original CDM0 as found on the very first CD100, or at least a slightly simplified one, with a CDM1 platter and clamp, but not yet a CDM1 either!
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I'm recapping one of these and have a question on the value of bipolar capacitor 2214 on the servo board (marked servo 1 in the service manual) at the moment it's 4.7uf of which I typically do not have, can I replace with a 10uf?
OK, before o put this back together on the Decoder board capacitors 2608 and 2523 hopefully shown highlighted in the attached pic, what are their purpose and can I get away with a 22uf 16v wima there?
They are simply coupling caps in the audio output feed to block any DC offset that may be present. They see essentially no voltage and so 'anything' of correct value will be fine.
Having got this working, nicely I have a little niggle with it. When switching on there is a slight noise from the right channel like a turn on thump through the speakers, is this common, or likely to be an issue?