What would be a good woofer then for the low/mids? Most important thing for me is flatness because its for a monitor
Its not really about the two woofers. I just wanted to know if theres a reason this specific driver is just marketed as a subwoofer and if theres a reason you couldnt use it as a low mid driver also
Looking at both drivers I would say there are differences.
The 220.1 branded as a subwoofer I would use as high as 600 hz. The breakup peak in the 1-2k range will sound fairly bad.
Having the 14mm xmax means you have to sacrifice some BL and also gains some voice coil inductance.
The 220.8 I would use as high as 1500 hz. The 4mm xmax and higher BL and less voice coil inductance helps in the upper midrange.
Might be best to use with a subwoofer in come cases. This driver is a few DB more efficient in the midrange due to higher BL and lower moving mass.
The 220.1 branded as a subwoofer I would use as high as 600 hz. The breakup peak in the 1-2k range will sound fairly bad.
Having the 14mm xmax means you have to sacrifice some BL and also gains some voice coil inductance.
The 220.8 I would use as high as 1500 hz. The 4mm xmax and higher BL and less voice coil inductance helps in the upper midrange.
Might be best to use with a subwoofer in come cases. This driver is a few DB more efficient in the midrange due to higher BL and lower moving mass.
See the open source monkey box for inspiration.
Are you equipped with mic, soundcard, to measure? Otherwise its not going to work out.
Its very hard to understand what your question actually is.
Are you equipped with mic, soundcard, to measure? Otherwise its not going to work out.
Its very hard to understand what your question actually is.
@adason yes i do have all of that.
Maybe it helps to know what I'm trying to do. Here are some points:
I wanted to build my own ATCs. (I know its stupid but yeah...)
I dont really care about low end extension but I found it exceptionally had to find a driver for a sealed enclosure thats really flat. (Sealed because I want to keep it simple because its already complex and hard enough 😀)
Speaker&driver shouldnt be too big because it has to fit on the desk.
Active crossover from hypex module.
Thats where I found the SB220.1 which fits in a 20L box.
Maybe it helps to know what I'm trying to do. Here are some points:
I wanted to build my own ATCs. (I know its stupid but yeah...)
I dont really care about low end extension but I found it exceptionally had to find a driver for a sealed enclosure thats really flat. (Sealed because I want to keep it simple because its already complex and hard enough 😀)
Speaker&driver shouldnt be too big because it has to fit on the desk.
Active crossover from hypex module.
Thats where I found the SB220.1 which fits in a 20L box.
Despite what adjectives a given manufacturer stick to their drivers
there's stuff the driver can do or not do
depending on their Thiele Small parameters
but seeing the specs for it , it is clearly designed for a CAR application, not home, PA
86dB sensitivity is too low for HT or PA applications,
in the other hand when you see 3 way cabinets, they have a 15 or 18 low driver, then a 6.5" mid and then the compression driver 1.4" or 2"
your driver will fit in one of the below type of enclosures
there are a lot of 3 way cabinets but again , the relation between drivers is much bigger that to start with an 8" low freq driver that in the 1st hand was not designed for a 3 way system.
see the some examples of 3 way cabinets
15” woofer, 6.5” midrange transducer, and 1.5” compression driver
an 8" driver will fit a 2 way cabinet but not the driver you choose that is for CAR sub audio
a 2 way system with an 8" is something more like this or this
there is a lot of 2 way designs already designed for your to cut some wood
if you do not want to cut your own wood or MDF you can get a flat pack and just glue it together
and if you do not want even that.
just buy an already made 2 way speaker on your price range.
my 2 cents.
Max.
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Thanks for posting that graph.
I would call it a Woofer, period (not too sure about calling it a "Sub" either) and as others noticed, I would NOT cross it over above some 700Hz, and that with at least 12dB/oct slope into tame that ugly peak, smack in the middle of important mid frequencies so I would NOT ask it to fill any midrange duty, whatever the label on the box or brochure says.
Again as mentioned above, I would either use it in a 3 way or choose another speaker, with wider/flatter response if 2 way.
As said before, I don´t worry or care much about "labels", actual response rules.
I would call it a Woofer, period (not too sure about calling it a "Sub" either) and as others noticed, I would NOT cross it over above some 700Hz, and that with at least 12dB/oct slope into tame that ugly peak, smack in the middle of important mid frequencies so I would NOT ask it to fill any midrange duty, whatever the label on the box or brochure says.
Again as mentioned above, I would either use it in a 3 way or choose another speaker, with wider/flatter response if 2 way.
As said before, I don´t worry or care much about "labels", actual response rules.
The manufacturer suggests sealed or vented arrangement
with a vented box of 35 Liters you can get a tuning of 36Hz , pretty acceptable for what the driver is
but that will be just the 8" driver chamber volume
35 Liters with a port of 14cms length over 5cms diameter to get the tuning of 36Hz
with a vented box of 35 Liters you can get a tuning of 36Hz , pretty acceptable for what the driver is
but that will be just the 8" driver chamber volume
35 Liters with a port of 14cms length over 5cms diameter to get the tuning of 36Hz
Exactly thats why I'm asking 😉
I didnt just wanted to stick to what the manufacturer says but for me it seemed good for what I want.
Volt is known for its studio monitor drivers so I thought I'm at least good with that.
Id cross it over with a softdome mid so thats why my 3 way needs to go so high.
I do already own a pair of genelec 8341, so I dont just want some speakers becuase I already have the best. Its about designing and building them myself 🙂
It will be a 3 way. I already have the soft dome mids, tweeter and dsp 3way plate.
I planned a 4th order crossover (no real reason, just because ATC is doing it) but i'll play around with it.
Only thing missing is a good woofer for the build now.
Like I've said, I dont really care about lowend extensio, just that its a good woofer for a sealed enclosure and really flat
Most 8" studio monitors are 2 way with soft dome HF drivers that's your best bet. But that driver you posted is not a studio monitor nor home theater or PA. It's a car sub
Well, this one is even 6.5" and arguably one of the best studio speakers in existence.
And also kinda what I'm aiming for
https://atc.audio/professional/loudspeakers/scm25a-pro/
And also kinda what I'm aiming for
https://atc.audio/professional/loudspeakers/scm25a-pro/
The speaker should be smallish because it has to go on my desk so 8" is prob the most. (Depending on the volume needed ..)
I do already have mid Bliesma t25s, tweeter Bliesma M74S and amp module Hypex 123.
Only thing missing currently is the lows.
I do already have mid Bliesma t25s, tweeter Bliesma M74S and amp module Hypex 123.
Only thing missing currently is the lows.
studio monitors have many flavours
NEARFIELDS
like 5.25" full range (1way)
5" 2 way with ribbon HF Driver
MIDFIELD
8" 3 way with ribbon HF driver
and hen you jump to the FARFIELD or MAIN STUDIO MONITORS
thats the BIG GUYS