Maybe you mean "Discofilm" ?About 30 years or so ago there was a product that was designed to be used this way.
I'm pretty sure Audio Amateur magazine that had an article by Reg Williamson on it back in the '90s, and that Old Colony Sound Labs sold a powdered PVA concentrate. And this confirms it: https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=9685
Elvanol was the stuff, available for sale here: https://sciencekitstore.com/polyvinyl-alcohol-pvoh30-99-elvanol-71-30/
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/wood-glue-as-vinyl-cleaner.99837/
Elvanol was the stuff, available for sale here: https://sciencekitstore.com/polyvinyl-alcohol-pvoh30-99-elvanol-71-30/
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/wood-glue-as-vinyl-cleaner.99837/
Thank you all for more anwsers. All has been taken into consideration.
The glue is on:

Not too relaxing job to do, but it's managable. My shaky hands didn't help tho.
I applied most of the glue while spinning and was left with a few low spots that were filled stationary.
First coat was about 70/30 mix, I mixed 50/50, but it seemend to me that it's too liquidy and was affraid that it would pour off the edge.
Second coat was just glue.
The glue is on:

Not too relaxing job to do, but it's managable. My shaky hands didn't help tho.
I applied most of the glue while spinning and was left with a few low spots that were filled stationary.
First coat was about 70/30 mix, I mixed 50/50, but it seemend to me that it's too liquidy and was affraid that it would pour off the edge.
Second coat was just glue.
Never tought of that.What about air compressed stream?
Will try it.
I ripped the record before apllying glue and will rip it once more after I remove the glue, to compare the effect.
Other side will be ripped as is, then after dusting it off with air and finaly the glue trick.
There used to be a product in my country for peel-off disc cleaning. It was a pink liquid. An applicator came with it for even distribution. I heard the same substance was used in the cosmetics industry as face mask for women. I suppose it is also PVA based.
I also tried wood glue. The trick is in the thickness. It is easier to peel off if you use pieces of adhesive tape at the edges. Any glue remaining in the grooves can also be removed by adhesive tape.
The biggest issue I had with wood glue is that the disc gets static charge at the moment when you peel off the dried glue. So the disc attracts dust immediately.
I also tried wood glue. The trick is in the thickness. It is easier to peel off if you use pieces of adhesive tape at the edges. Any glue remaining in the grooves can also be removed by adhesive tape.
The biggest issue I had with wood glue is that the disc gets static charge at the moment when you peel off the dried glue. So the disc attracts dust immediately.
If you're going to dust with air make sure your source is completely clean otherwise you'll just be firing high speed microdust at your LP...Never tought of that.
Will try it.
I ripped the record before apllying glue and will rip it once more after I remove the glue, to compare the effect.
Other side will be ripped as is, then after dusting it off with air and finaly the glue trick.
Yep, I don't trust my old compressor, it blows too much moisture & oil even with water trap. But compressor at work should be good.If you're going to dust with air make sure your source is completely clean otherwise you'll just be firing high speed microdust at your LP...
Good to know.There used to be a product in my country for peel-off disc cleaning. It was a pink liquid. An applicator came with it for even distribution. I heard the same substance was used in the cosmetics industry as face mask for women. I suppose it is also PVA based.
I also tried wood glue. The trick is in the thickness. It is easier to peel off if you use pieces of adhesive tape at the edges. Any glue remaining in the grooves can also be removed by adhesive tape.
The biggest issue I had with wood glue is that the disc gets static charge at the moment when you peel off the dried glue. So the disc attracts dust immediately.
That face mask should also do the trick.
Thanks for the tips.
Static... I hate it, I had bought 2 brand new records to this day and both are still full of it.
I was warned off using even canned air to clean the internals of my camera because of the potential for firing dust into the image sensor or simply embedding it further into the camera. But like a lot of this stuff YMMV and of course I've no personal experience, I just dutifully followed the advice from someone I respected 🙂I was referring not to an actual compressor, what I meant is those cans of gas compressed, I don't know exactly what the hell they contain inside. I used the to clean PC monitors and keyboards time ago.
Looking forward to hearing back from you. Like I was saying earlier, it's a long process but in the end, out of everything I have available to clean a record, that was by far the best solution. The 2 I've done using the wood glue are super quiet now, and they were basically unlistenable before (even after a spin clean).Thank you all for more anwsers. All has been taken into consideration.
The glue is on:
View attachment 1119513
Not too relaxing job to do, but it's managable. My shaky hands didn't help tho.
I applied most of the glue while spinning and was left with a few low spots that were filled stationary.
First coat was about 70/30 mix, I mixed 50/50, but it seemend to me that it's too liquidy and was affraid that it would pour off the edge.
Second coat was just glue.
I'm really curious about the ultrasonic cleaners. But a lot of these guys are nuts, I'm reading they'll first use a brush to get dust off, then run it thru a their $500 Pro-Ject record cleaner, then final clean it with a $2k ultrasonic cleaner. I'm not spending $2,500 on record cleaning machines, for that much money I could easily replace the few records I have that might need a deep clean.
That would be better yes. I was never worried about shop air, only that there is no water / oil in lines for the painting or sandblasting. But with records is another story.I was referring not to an actual compressor, what I meant is those cans of gas compressed, I don't know exactly what the hell they contain inside. I used the to clean PC monitors and keyboards time ago.
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As an afterthought it is really better to avoid it.I was warned off using even canned air to clean the internals of my camera because of the potential for firing dust into the image sensor or simply embedding it further into the camera. But like a lot of this stuff YMMV and of course I've no personal experience, I just dutifully followed the advice from someone I respected 🙂
I will see if it will be dry enough tommorow, if not I will post the results the day after.Looking forward to hearing back from you. Like I was saying earlier, it's a long process but in the end, out of everything I have available to clean a record, that was by far the best solution. The 2 I've done using the wood glue are super quiet now, and they were basically unlistenable before (even after a spin clean).
I'm really curious about the ultrasonic cleaners. But a lot of these guys are nuts, I'm reading they'll first use a brush to get dust off, then run it thru a their $500 Pro-Ject record cleaner, then final clean it with a $2k ultrasonic cleaner. I'm not spending $2,500 on record cleaning machines, for that much money I could easily replace the few records I have that might need a deep clean.
I'm looking into ultrasonic cleaners too, but if I do, I will buy something cheap. Around 150EUR and I would also use it for car parts and such, so it weights the investment better.
It should definitely be dry enough today, and you'll want to be somewhat cautious because there is a line between peeling it off too soon and waiting too long. The window is probably... dry enough that it's not liquid anymore, but still at least a little pliable. Waiting too long will make the glue brittle and harder to get off the record, IIRC it was around 6 hours.I will see if it will be dry enough tommorow, if not I will post the results the day after.
I'm looking into ultrasonic cleaners too, but if I do, I will buy something cheap. Around 150EUR and I would also use it for car parts and such, so it weights the investment better.
Ok, will get home in about an hour and see if it looks ready.It should definitely be dry enough today, and you'll want to be somewhat cautious because there is a line between peeling it off too soon and waiting too long. The window is probably... dry enough that it's not liquid anymore, but still at least a little pliable. Waiting too long will make the glue brittle and harder to get off the record, IIRC it was around 6 hours.
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