I didn't dilute mine so I'm guessing more water equals longer dry time 🙂
This might be the reason. It's been 22°C all day in the house and humidity is actually low at 35%.
"Discofilm" seems to be aviable for about 20€ + x per 500mL. Set with applicators seems to be out of stock.
https://www.discofilm-shop.de/
Or ebay..
From memory it was a transparent colorless odorless liquid honey like mass. KY comes to my mind. But that was 30years ago...
Whatever the presumably PVA based mixture is, here are the instructions.
"APPLICATION OF DISCOFILM BOTTLE WITH SPONGE APPLICATOR:
1. Pull up the disco film bottle cap. Pierce the center of the sealing membrane with a pick.
Apply Discofilm generously evenly with a sponge or brush so that a homogeneous film forms.
Place the pull-tab (e.g. blotting paper?) on the edge of the disc on the liquid disco film so that it protrudes approx. 1 cm over the edge of the plate.
2. When the film has dried (approx. 24 hours, depending on the room temperature), all dirt particles are bound in the film. Using the pull-tab, slowly pull the dried disco film upwards. If the film tears when you pull it off, it has been applied too thinly. You can repeat the process on the already dried film with peace of mind."
https://www.discofilm-shop.de/
Or ebay..
From memory it was a transparent colorless odorless liquid honey like mass. KY comes to my mind. But that was 30years ago...
Whatever the presumably PVA based mixture is, here are the instructions.
"APPLICATION OF DISCOFILM BOTTLE WITH SPONGE APPLICATOR:
1. Pull up the disco film bottle cap. Pierce the center of the sealing membrane with a pick.
Apply Discofilm generously evenly with a sponge or brush so that a homogeneous film forms.
Place the pull-tab (e.g. blotting paper?) on the edge of the disc on the liquid disco film so that it protrudes approx. 1 cm over the edge of the plate.
2. When the film has dried (approx. 24 hours, depending on the room temperature), all dirt particles are bound in the film. Using the pull-tab, slowly pull the dried disco film upwards. If the film tears when you pull it off, it has been applied too thinly. You can repeat the process on the already dried film with peace of mind."
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I've had the 16.5 for eons... still (knock on wood) works.
I have thought about getting an ultrasonic machine, but if the "Hoover" is "interesting" (in my living room), imagine what it would look like with the ultrasonic... a bio wet lab?
I wonder if a layer of glue bound to a very thin piece of metal would help on flattening a badly warped LP? How hard would it to pull it out after recording the one side and then do it the same thing to the other?
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Did glue went completely transparent on yours?
It's been 24 hours now and it is still a bit whitish.
It's been 24 hours now and it is still a bit whitish.
Glue is off. It was dry and it went nicely.
Improvement is just slight. Some surface noise is gone, alot remains because of the damage that record has.
Bigger improvement can be heard in dynamics. lt is also visible on the waveform. Look at the part from 10.9570 to 10.9650 for example.
Improvement is just slight. Some surface noise is gone, alot remains because of the damage that record has.
Bigger improvement can be heard in dynamics. lt is also visible on the waveform. Look at the part from 10.9570 to 10.9650 for example.
Attachments
Yes, Discofilm Antistat was also marketed in Germany in the 1970ies and 1980ies. But it was green, possibly due to having been dyed with Eosin Y or Fluorescein.
Best regards!
Interesting. Yeah glue can't fix a scratch but it does work to remove imbedded grime. I think the only viable question is... Is it worth it? That answer is up to whoever wants to horse around with it.
I would say if record isn't scratched too bad it is worth it. I will definately repeat it in the future if visual inspection wont reveal too much damage.
Awesome try.... now do this... change the stylus.
I found, eons ago, buying used records, that most people would wreck their records with a cheap stylus... while I had a Shibata cut. ( I got an elliptical one now but it's much higher quality that the cheap ones). So, my High End stylii ride on a different part of the groove.
After cleaning up the record you still have the damage on the walls, so a stylus that rides on a different part of the groove ignores that damage.
Now this is the anwser for somebody that will be digging up this post in 10 years. 🙂
I'm looking for it, but I have fixed weight arm... So I am limited to using DMS251S cartridge. Should be the same as Audio Tehnica, Dual and some others... but I'm not sure.
I went for this tt for the first one, but it looks like I had made a mistake. It was broken and cheap tho.
Yep... that Marantz is declared as quality entry level tt and this is just what it is. I don't have much experience with tts, this is my first if I don't count old cold era gems I had when I was a kid, the record destroyers, they could be called.
With that said, I still knew about the odds of fixed weight arm, but I thought that it will be ok for start, but I changed that opinion quickly as I'm not new to hifi in general....
I recall some DIY'res who have hot rodded the Technics 1200 and created their own linear tracking tonearms... but that is very rare.
Ideally, ideally, you would find a used Linn LP12 with Lingo, Ittok, Trampolin and a recent tune up for under $2500/$3000. Then add the cartridge. I am prejudiced towards the Grado Reference series (wooden bodies) which you can get at 5mV and 47K loadings, so the preamp won't have to be very fancy.
Here's one, it comes with a reasonable cartridge and a non OEM power supply ( likely just fine ) which drops the resale value but shouldn't really bother you... but be aware of the MC cartridge which WILL require a higher gain phono preamp.
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649901701-linn-sondek-lp-12-turntable-arm-cartridge/
Uff... I'm looking 400-500 EUR max.
I'm always returning to Technics 1200 tho 😏😏 it's such an icon.
I had decided not to hurry this time. Will see what time will throw at me.