Glad you're happy with the outcome, Cliff.
I trust you've sealed up those input jack sockets so they don't leak air - as planet10 remarked on earlier.
I trust you've sealed up those input jack sockets so they don't leak air - as planet10 remarked on earlier.
Those caps were not from Jaycar; much higher quality than the cheap ones from Jaycar.
BTW you can't really go wrong with adding a little polyester filling, or even fibreglass in a sealed box.
BTW you can't really go wrong with adding a little polyester filling, or even fibreglass in a sealed box.
Even better. Thanks Ted.
I'll be fitting the caps in the Rotels as well.
Just working on routing the woofer holes 6mm.
A spanner in the works.
I thought these boxes were sealed, until I noticed a slot cut out of the baffle board about 25mm x 120mm when reassembling.
So the speaker lead plug holes aren't the only area of leakage.
I can see three options.
1. Leave as is but plug the input jacks.
2. Also fit a port tube.
3. Plug all holes, stuff the boxes with wadding & treat as sealed.
Don't know which way to go?
Thanks Galu.
The boxes have slots cut out on the lower part of the front baffles.
A poor attempt at baffles.
Should I seal them and treat as sealed boxes, or fit port tubes?
Personal opinion as they are cheap boxes with cheap end drivers. seal them and stuff with fibreglass and polyfill
I like your option.
Much easier to do. 🙂
I don't like using fibreglass.
The Rotel Speakers have a grey material with flicks of other colors through it.
Do you have a recommendation of where to source suitable non fibreglass type material?
Your description suggests to me that the Rotel absorbent material may consist of recycled cotton and wool fibres - in which case it is an excellent sound absorbent and superior to synthetic pillow stuffing.
Let me stress, yours is a ported enclosure, not a sealed one. Sealing it will alter the characteristics of the speaker, probably for the worse.
How was the original absorbent arranged in the enclosure? Did it completely fill the box or was it just attached to the walls?
Some info:
The narrow 120mm x 25mm 'vent' takes the place of a 'circular opening fitted with a tube' (which is what we typically call a 'port').
Some early speakers employed a narrow vent in place of a port to avoid the need for 'sharp' port tuning, making it simpler to employ and more flexible in application.
P.S. Not to be confused with a 'resistive vent' which would be covered by soft cloth or filled with fibreglass.
The narrow 120mm x 25mm 'vent' takes the place of a 'circular opening fitted with a tube' (which is what we typically call a 'port').
Some early speakers employed a narrow vent in place of a port to avoid the need for 'sharp' port tuning, making it simpler to employ and more flexible in application.
P.S. Not to be confused with a 'resistive vent' which would be covered by soft cloth or filled with fibreglass.
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The boxes are lined with a thin layer (2") of fibreglass sheets (sides, top, bottom, & rear).
Lining the interior walls is in accordance with the requirements of a ported enclosure. There requires to be a free flow of air to the port.
The jack points are sealed with emastic.
I've supplemented the fibreglass lining with 1" thick foam lining (incremental improvement).
I've removed the parallel caps reducing capacitance from 4μF to 2μF for each Tweeter, and soldered back in place.
The remaining caps were fixed with emastic to eliminate movement or vibration.
Initial revue.
Not audiophile grade but pleasing to the ear.
Nothing harsh or distracting.
Will spend more time listening to them as well as trying different Amps.
I made an error. The caps go back.
Original caps were 4μF.
Too many projects all happening simultaneously. 😳