I can't comment Cliff, I've never used anything other than standard copper wire salvaged from old extension cords for internal wiring.
Small stuff for the tweeters and larger for the woofers and midrangers. I did try to use Cat cable once but the wire is so hard and brittle I couldn't twist it together.
I just use what I have around. It doesn't take much copper to allow a hundred watts to pass and resistance should be allowable with the short sections we use inside boxes
Small stuff for the tweeters and larger for the woofers and midrangers. I did try to use Cat cable once but the wire is so hard and brittle I couldn't twist it together.
I just use what I have around. It doesn't take much copper to allow a hundred watts to pass and resistance should be allowable with the short sections we use inside boxes
Solid is best, but thatis likely gonna be better than what you are replacing, and frugal is important ;^)
dave
dave
Losing the leads eliminates wire, usually good.I can't see that there is much wrong with the existing wiring.
Interesting utilisation of the leads on the crossover components though - capacitor in particular.
dave
Many speakers, from this part of the world,
At the particular time, of manufacture,
Have oil capacitors,
instead of electrolytic .
Many people, don't like oil caps, as they
Don't have the distortions they like/
are used to.
So,
Should you replace these, it might be best,
Not to throw them away ....
--------------------------------
I have a pair as well.
--------------------------------
Probably,
the ultimate article about capacitors ,
Tells what distorts ,
It also tells why >
http://www.reliablecapacitors.com/oldRC/www.reliablecapacitors.com/pickcap.html
At the particular time, of manufacture,
Have oil capacitors,
instead of electrolytic .
Many people, don't like oil caps, as they
Don't have the distortions they like/
are used to.
So,
Should you replace these, it might be best,
Not to throw them away ....
--------------------------------
I have a pair as well.
--------------------------------
Probably,
the ultimate article about capacitors ,
Tells what distorts ,
It also tells why >
http://www.reliablecapacitors.com/oldRC/www.reliablecapacitors.com/pickcap.html
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I think you know the ones I'm talking about Dave, little shielded full range drivers sold in small plastic boxes, usually 75 to 80mm and with a 50V 100uF cap in front of them. Often found on the roadside in a cardboard box. like coat hangers they seem to multiply in the dark.
Given the current state of the S/H market I'd say that $50- was closer to the mark unfortunately.
That said if you want a pair of these little woofers Cliff I could sent you in a satchel, free if you can cover postage but the XO would need to be worked out and probably cost more than the sale price, because you'd need a reasonably large inductor on the woofer and two elelments on the fullrange driver crossing at around Daves 400/500Hz
Wish I had your knowledge and experience.
I could have a lot of fun experimenting.
Given my limitations the eventual dream is to funnel my resources into a full DIY.
But for the Akai's, just looking for a low time/cost performance improvement, to make them worthwhile for an end user.
Hi Dave.Pull a single pair out, use the same colours in the same place as each colour has a bit different twist.
dave
I've exposed a section of CAT5 24AWG.
4 pairs of twisted wire (white & orange, white & blue, white & brown, white & green), with solid core.
Will I retain the twisted pairs and just expose and twist the cores at each end to solder directly to terminals?
The multi strand OFC cable wires appear to be larger AWG.
Is solid copper sonically better for speaker enclosure cabling over multi strand?
As a general rule are paired CAT5/6 wires the go for all speaker enclosure wiring, or are there exceptions?
thanks
Is solid copper sonically better for speaker enclosure cabling over multi strand?
Dave mentioned earlier that "quality skinny (solid core CAT5/6 strands work well) will help the tweeter, and might give a bit more bass if used on the woofer." I would also be interested if he were to supply a bit more detail.
From an objective point of view, I would expect no sonic (audio frequency domain) difference if the solid core and stranded core are the same material, cross-sectional area and length.
I've seen CAT5/6 cable with varying quality jacket material."quality skinny (solid core CAT5/6 strands work well)
One would hope that the cables with well constructed jackets might be an indicator of the copper quality.
Apart from that I don't know if I can assess the copper quality.
4 pairs of twisted wire (white & orange, white & blue, white & brown, white & green), with solid core.
Pick a colour, try it.
dave
I would also be interested if he were to supply a bit more detail
;^)
Thanks Dave.Pick a colour, try it.
dave
I'll definitely try it on the Akais
Just wanted your view/experience on using quality cat5/6 solid core wire for wiring speakers in general.
" as a general rule are paired CAT5/6 wires the go for all speaker enclosure wiring, or are there exceptions?"
There are few general rules for all occasions. Most of what i use came free.
Here is the high end version: https://www.takefiveaudio.com/products/907-neotech-upocc-24-awg-teflon-insulation-cryo-treated/
dave
Here is the high end version: https://www.takefiveaudio.com/products/907-neotech-upocc-24-awg-teflon-insulation-cryo-treated/
dave
The CAT5 I've cannibalised for the Akais seems of better quality than cables I've come across.
I can't tell if it's teflon coated.
The AWG & solid core features of the takefive cable align.
I just need to work on the teflon & copper purity aspects.
I can't tell if it's teflon coated.
The AWG & solid core features of the takefive cable align.
I just need to work on the teflon & copper purity aspects.
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I just need to work on the teflon & copper purity aspects.
The copper is quite good, at your budget you care little about the jacket.
dave
Hi Ted.I have some very good 2uF caps here if you want some cheap. A closeout from DickSmith because of the "non-standard" value. I can spare a dozen or so.
The postie came today.
I was blown away with your generosity.
These Caps should keep me out of trouble for quite a few projects.
I plan to parallel them in pairs to make up the 4μF value of the current caps in the Akai's.
After that I'll fit them as pairs to replace the 3.7μF caps in the Jensens.
Do you think the 0.3μF variation will make much difference?
Cliff
I cut out one of the OMATS 4μF Caps from the Akai Speakers a short time ago.capacitors
After 5 measurements it averages 12.6μF.
Definitely deteriorated significantly.
First job for your Jaycar Caps.
Thanks heaps.
So far:
1. Replaced the old 4μF Caps with Jaycar electrolytics (2 x 2μF in // per box).
2. By passed the Headphone style speaker lead sockets to reduce possible resistance.
3. Deadened the Woofers by placing emastic strips over the basket arms.
Very pleased with the sound.
Great Forum here. 👍
You can crank them up without break up and crisp sounding and very listenable. 🙂
I need to get onto the Rotels, and will later decide whether to further treat the Akais.
Maybe re wire and/or work on the internal insulation and bracing.
Depends on time resource vs results.
Thanks to everyone.
1. Replaced the old 4μF Caps with Jaycar electrolytics (2 x 2μF in // per box).
2. By passed the Headphone style speaker lead sockets to reduce possible resistance.
3. Deadened the Woofers by placing emastic strips over the basket arms.
Very pleased with the sound.
Great Forum here. 👍
You can crank them up without break up and crisp sounding and very listenable. 🙂
I need to get onto the Rotels, and will later decide whether to further treat the Akais.
Maybe re wire and/or work on the internal insulation and bracing.
Depends on time resource vs results.
Thanks to everyone.
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