Jazzman - if you're using discrete diodes and the UPS boards... the snubber components' placement vs. your diodes / diode heatsinks might be tight. In addition to the excellent advice above, I'd propose a dry fit before soldering and/or putting the snubber components on the opposite side of the board to the diodes/heatsinks. Just an added precaution... ask me how I know...
ItsAllInMyHead, I am using the bridges. I have broken off the diode sections of the UPS boards. I believe I have this correct, I have attached a diagram of my intended circuit. I am using a barrier terminal block between the bridge (ac side) and the transformer. Do I have this right?
Also, I recall in one of the threads someone spoke of putting the circuit as close as possible to the transformer. Should I shorten the transformer leads? In general I leave the leads as they come, but maybe that is not the best way to do things?
Thanks.
Also, I recall in one of the threads someone spoke of putting the circuit as close as possible to the transformer. Should I shorten the transformer leads? In general I leave the leads as they come, but maybe that is not the best way to do things?
Thanks.
Hi Jazzman -
I'll try to answer the best I can, but someone else should confirm. I'm just sharing an opinion.
It's perfectly fine to break off the diode sections. No confirmation needed.
re: your wiring - I'm not sure if your diagram is 100% correct. Someone else might chime in. What I would use (and did use) are the schematics for the UPS boards posted on the store's site (linked below).
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/P-PSU-1V30-schematic.pdf
What I was specifically (sorry I was unclear) trying to caution you against was the potential crowding of the 'input' snubber components CX1,2; CS1,2, RS1,2 with the diodes and specifically the diode heatsinks. If you look at the physical boards themselves, the components are nicely marked with the silkscreen. You should have no problems with stuffing components in the correct locations. What you may also notice is that the input snubber components are situated with what may look like a lot of space between the diodes and the diode heatsinks. However, depending on the diodes and heatsinks you choose, the spacing between them can be fairly tight. If you stuff your diodes and the snubber components on the same side of the board, you (unless you're a magician) must stuff the snubber components first. If you use that (comparatively) large 3W resistor posted earlier, and particularly if you orient it vertically as E_B suggested, you MAY run into clearance issues. So, to check to see if you will have issues with physical space, you can dry fit things w/o soldering and/or you can mount the snubber components on the "bottom" side of the board. You could also choose a physically smaller resistor that fits as intended.
Yes, keeping the wiring as short as possible/practical between the rectification section and the filtering section. Same goes for all the AC wiring, IMO.
Hope that is a bit clearer re: what I meant.
Cheers and Have fun!
Edited to add - your post pics in #8901 show monolithic bridges. Your post #8914 said you're using discreet "bridges". My guess is that you can ignore most of what I wrote above. I didn't look back at your pics until now. The physical spacing is irrelevant if you're not stuffing the boards. Apologies.
I'll try to answer the best I can, but someone else should confirm. I'm just sharing an opinion.
It's perfectly fine to break off the diode sections. No confirmation needed.
re: your wiring - I'm not sure if your diagram is 100% correct. Someone else might chime in. What I would use (and did use) are the schematics for the UPS boards posted on the store's site (linked below).
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/P-PSU-1V30-schematic.pdf
What I was specifically (sorry I was unclear) trying to caution you against was the potential crowding of the 'input' snubber components CX1,2; CS1,2, RS1,2 with the diodes and specifically the diode heatsinks. If you look at the physical boards themselves, the components are nicely marked with the silkscreen. You should have no problems with stuffing components in the correct locations. What you may also notice is that the input snubber components are situated with what may look like a lot of space between the diodes and the diode heatsinks. However, depending on the diodes and heatsinks you choose, the spacing between them can be fairly tight. If you stuff your diodes and the snubber components on the same side of the board, you (unless you're a magician) must stuff the snubber components first. If you use that (comparatively) large 3W resistor posted earlier, and particularly if you orient it vertically as E_B suggested, you MAY run into clearance issues. So, to check to see if you will have issues with physical space, you can dry fit things w/o soldering and/or you can mount the snubber components on the "bottom" side of the board. You could also choose a physically smaller resistor that fits as intended.
Yes, keeping the wiring as short as possible/practical between the rectification section and the filtering section. Same goes for all the AC wiring, IMO.
Hope that is a bit clearer re: what I meant.
Cheers and Have fun!
Edited to add - your post pics in #8901 show monolithic bridges. Your post #8914 said you're using discreet "bridges". My guess is that you can ignore most of what I wrote above. I didn't look back at your pics until now. The physical spacing is irrelevant if you're not stuffing the boards. Apologies.
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Thank you, ItsAllInMyHead. I should have said monolithic bridges, not just bridges. I apologize for the confusion.
The schematic is a little confusing, as it places the snubber in between diodes. From reviewing the threads, my diagram is the best I could come up with. Can anyone confirm that I have it right?
The schematic is a little confusing, as it places the snubber in between diodes. From reviewing the threads, my diagram is the best I could come up with. Can anyone confirm that I have it right?
Place the Cx1, Rs1 & Cs1 on the bridge; solder them to the bridge lugs:
Another data point. A few days ago, the toroids of both my Aleph J and Audio Zone Amp-1 were humming loudly for around two hours. When I turn on the Amp-1, the power supply usually makes a very audible humming sound for a couple of seconds and then fades off quickly to inaudibility. This time the hum didn't drop off at all. I thought something was wrong with the amp, so I turned it off and started up the Aleph J. The Aleph J's toroid also hummed loudly. It must have been DC on the mains that caused this because all humming went away after a couple of hours. My Aleph J's toroid PT does generate a small amount of hum normally. It's audible when close to the amp, but not normally a problem. There are DIY DC blocking circuits available online that will take the DC off the mains supply to your amps. I will probably try one, as I would like to keep noise sources to an absolute minimum in my listening room. While the amps have been behaving "normally" since then, it may be that the slight humming of my Aleph J's power transformer is due to a consistent DC offset on my mains.
It will work.
But 0.5W Zener diode would have a little bit less noise.
P.S.: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/some-noise-measurements-for-leds-and-zener-diodes.35821/
Extreme_Boky - your diagram is very helpful. Thanks a lot! It appears to be the same circuit I had, but a much better way to implement it.
I have my monolithic bridges mounted on a base plate to act as a heat sink. I probably will have to un-mount them to solder the connections. Once the components arrive, I will try to attach them with the bridges in situ first, before going to the trouble of un-mounting them.
I have my monolithic bridges mounted on a base plate to act as a heat sink. I probably will have to un-mount them to solder the connections. Once the components arrive, I will try to attach them with the bridges in situ first, before going to the trouble of un-mounting them.
How is this looking? I am waiting on my resistors for R8. Contemplating if i will drill a hole in the faceplate for an led or not. As far as choosing which led to run to the faceplate, the closest to mounting location i would think right?
maybe, ha. I have read other members posts about how they had sonic improvements jumping this capacitor.
What do you think?
It’s been awhile since populated my Aleph J boards, but that jumper stood out to me knowing I didn’t jump that one. I generally build things “stock”…if there’s a sonic improvement to be had by substituting parts I’d like to hear it for myself.
If it were me, I would hit all the parts with solder from the topside as well.
If it were me, I would hit all the parts with solder from the topside as well.
As far as the LED is concerned, you can use whatever position you want for you front panel indicator. Just understand the there’s one LED for the positive rail and one for the negative…make sure you have your anode and cathode oriented for the polarity of the position you use.
Thats a smart way to build, stock then observe the differences for yourself. I'll pop the cap back in c1 and touch up those solders.
Got it! thanks for the info.
Nice boards.
R8 (1kohm) is missing.
I also removed C1.... actually, I soldered a piece of wire that later on I was able to cut and insert various types/size capacitors to try with & without C1... there was no comparison, the sound was infinitely ( 🙂 ) better without C1. You will have an initial offset of around 200mV... which settles fairly quickly to within + and - 10mV.
You wouldn't want any DC present at the inputs, either; with no C1, the DC gain will be whatever the Aleph J gain is, i.e. it will NOT be 1.
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