Indeed, Google says that Line 6 uses a soldered battery to save settings in some of their models. Here's a good link on how to replace with a battery holder, which is what I would personally prefer:
https://line6.com/support/topic/36891-battery-replacement/
https://line6.com/support/topic/36891-battery-replacement/
12 hub side aero lite spokes for a carbon road bike wheel.
Where they cross and touch each other over time a little corrosion starts under
this area and broke a few already in that spot, so I replaced all of them on that side.
spent about 3 hours with dial indicators to get them back into alignment
The best I could get to was about +/- .005” runout
Where they cross and touch each other over time a little corrosion starts under
this area and broke a few already in that spot, so I replaced all of them on that side.
spent about 3 hours with dial indicators to get them back into alignment
The best I could get to was about +/- .005” runout
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
220 RV adapter. I was going to use an old dryer-cord, but think I gave that away.
The larger find is a Uinsaw 36-812 in remarkable condition; It's broken down at the moment, but will post a pic soon.
With this adapter and a oversized 10gauge extension cord I roll the saw out in the driveway.
The larger find is a Uinsaw 36-812 in remarkable condition; It's broken down at the moment, but will post a pic soon.
With this adapter and a oversized 10gauge extension cord I roll the saw out in the driveway.
Is there a way to strap the motor for 240 instead of 120? Of course those RV adapters just give you the 120 off one side and let you pull 50 amps if you want to. But that can be a lot of voltage drop. I strap my heavier stuff to run off 240, and the lower current draw lets me run them off a 100 foot #12 or 200 feet of #10.
Good Point, I think the adapter is straight through 220 ~ 220,
I'll double check it before starting up.
Most Unisaws come with robust 3hp motors and already wired for 220v
Thanks!
Depends what the socket looks like on that adapter. If a regular 110 device plugs in or not.
A really nice tandem for $60 would have been a steal. I would have gone back home to get the money, if I’d run into something like that.
My problem is that I'm a hem and hawer, to the ridiculous level. Serendipity has thrown so many things like that my way and they usually just slip right through my fingers. 2nd example; Knight stereo power amp - the McIntosh killer - $149 BIN on ebay, pawn shop selling, just up the road in Seattle too. I had the chance to be the first to press that button - what did I do? "I better look up the output tubes first"
I'd be the guy that sees a Mac 1500 for $100 and think "I already have one of those sitting in the closet I've got all that money into, what would I do with second one?"
I guess it helps keep the house clean. If I got everything that came my way via my most excellent fortune, it'd look like one of those hoarding shows. Bicycle built for two in the living room, cause it wont fit in the garage...
Like this one. Value approaching 1k$. "but what if I need to replace an output tube!?!" By the time I figured out searching on line what a EL37 even was, it was gonzo. Supposedly, beats an equivalent Mac amp in sonics, but obviously not value. I'll probably never know -
Picked up this baby at the local Value Village;
+/- 17V B+
Quasi comp Germanium outputs. Oooooh!
Transformer coupled output device drive. Ooooh!
Plywood veneered case
Very sweet-clean, except electrical tape residue on solid aluminum knobs / panel. Built like an old Japanese transistor radio from the 60's!
I wonder what the harmonic spectrum at 1kHz on this would look like? FM sounds a bit ratty, does play in stereo; what's best approach to make better?
Makes soundstage depth, a little lacking on the highs (or is it just me again...). They couple through a set of 1000uf, 15V NPs to the speaker. DC offs is 50mV on one channel, 300mV on the other. Anyway to adjust in this type of circuit? Unsure why the NPs at the output were necessary, unless offset is all over the spot say, when it gets hot.
Check it out! I cant find a thing about it on line anywhere; only two people mention having one, one with zero replies.
+/- 17V B+
Quasi comp Germanium outputs. Oooooh!
Transformer coupled output device drive. Ooooh!
Plywood veneered case
Very sweet-clean, except electrical tape residue on solid aluminum knobs / panel. Built like an old Japanese transistor radio from the 60's!
I wonder what the harmonic spectrum at 1kHz on this would look like? FM sounds a bit ratty, does play in stereo; what's best approach to make better?
Makes soundstage depth, a little lacking on the highs (or is it just me again...). They couple through a set of 1000uf, 15V NPs to the speaker. DC offs is 50mV on one channel, 300mV on the other. Anyway to adjust in this type of circuit? Unsure why the NPs at the output were necessary, unless offset is all over the spot say, when it gets hot.
Check it out! I cant find a thing about it on line anywhere; only two people mention having one, one with zero replies.