I just finished building my TSE-II this week and was looking for parts the last couple of months also. I ended with this:
D1 – eBay sellers, Hifiic $4 +$4.50 shipping (ouch!), but it’s working fine. looks like they still have some for that price.
IC 1 & 2 – I had leftovers from building an SSE.
IC3 – Found one at Onlinecomponents.com and it’s working in my amp now.
Q1 & Q2 – Luckily, I found some at Mouser earlier this year. But I also picked up a substitute FDPF5N60NZ from Mouser that George said should work.
D1 – eBay sellers, Hifiic $4 +$4.50 shipping (ouch!), but it’s working fine. looks like they still have some for that price.
IC 1 & 2 – I had leftovers from building an SSE.
IC3 – Found one at Onlinecomponents.com and it’s working in my amp now.
Q1 & Q2 – Luckily, I found some at Mouser earlier this year. But I also picked up a substitute FDPF5N60NZ from Mouser that George said should work.
Thank you, I think all but a few parts have arrived. And I have a good start on the chassis top plate.
I would like to add holes for banana jacks for setting the biases. I've looked for the connection points and settings but so far have not found this information. It's no doubt somewhere obvious, but I'm not finding it. Can someone please direct me to it. Thank you.
Most folks flip the amp over and get meter leads on R18 and R19 above. I elected not to use banana jacks on this amp for bias because those resistors are at B+ voltage and I didn't want to expose them/B+ on the top plate.........but you certainly can.......perhaps they sell covers for the jacks.....dunno...
Thank you for the images and information. Hopefully the image of the jack's I have in mind appears. I can make plugs for these, though, with the other test points to consider, and as these will be under the Aluminum plate, it makes sense not to add the B+ jacks. I can make the bottom plate/cover easily removable.
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Yes, I use those jacks on my other amps because they are typically exposing low voltages.
...and they sure make setting the bias really easy.
You could consider recessing the jacks on the rear of the chassis with a cover plate ...just thinking out loud...
...and they sure make setting the bias really easy.
You could consider recessing the jacks on the rear of the chassis with a cover plate ...just thinking out loud...
This is what I've used, the insulation is about 1/8" deep, or, the contact is recessed about 1/8", which seems adequate given there would be separate pos. & neg. But with several voltages to check, it may be more practical to remove the bottom plate and check the PCB contacts.
Once set, is it likely adjustment would be needed frequently?
Once set, is it likely adjustment would be needed frequently?
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I wasn't worried about insulation/dielectric strength, more about someone sticking something conductive in there or spilling a drink etc. I suppose spilling a drink there are already other issues.
The datasheet above lists the breakdown voltage at 5700V...so no worries there.
I have an orig TSE....and have checked bias a couple times over 7-8 years. It's not my everyday driver though.
The datasheet above lists the breakdown voltage at 5700V...so no worries there.
I have an orig TSE....and have checked bias a couple times over 7-8 years. It's not my everyday driver though.
Spilling good whiskey in any situation is sad. I like your suggestion of a cover, or firmly fitted non-conductive plugs. I can add the holes now, and he jack's later if it seems practical. A few more ventilation holes may be good.
Hmm, I completed my TSE II build back in May. Haven't put it in a case yet. I have 5 multimeters monitoring bias and voltages for now while I use it. What I have noticed is the 5842 tubes, B+ and B- voltages are really stable, but the 300B bias changes often. I like to keep it at around 61 - 65 ma, but every time I fire it up, I seem to have to adjust it. And that's after letting it warm up for quite a bit. Maybe I have something a little off (off market part?), or maybe it's the cheap Chinese 300B tube I'm using, Psvane Hi-Fi? If and when I do put this in a case, I'm going to have to have 300B bias point jacks to keep it running where I want it to be.