I still think the tweeter on the JBL coax is suitable, separate tweeters are less frustrating to design. I'll either snip the tweeters on the JBLs or not use them at all.
The JBLs have a larger frequency range and have much better sensitivity than a budget home theater woofer. If I can't pull off a 2.5 way with mismatched woofers maybe I can pull off a 3way using the JBLs as midrange and the other oem woofers for low freq.
I already used my "good" wood to make two different sets of cabinet fronts with a pair 6.5" cut outs. Both have space to add tweeters and a port. I rather not toss/redo those. I've got about a week to decide to return the speakers I bought.
I'm second guessing the drivers I bought. I think the oem home speaker drivers are just car midbass drivers, don't know if it even matters.
Next the tweeter and midwoofers overlap at a huge range. I can cross the tweeter at 2.5k all the to 7k, How do I choose the cutoff.
The midrange woofers sold oem. After learning Parts Express lists car the samee model woofera for cars and home, I got subspinous
I think they are the same or very similar as the 4ohm version of these,
https://www.parts-express.com/Timpano-Audio-TPT-M6-8-6-1-2-Midrange-Speaker-Pair-8-Ohm-294-3312
This is the JBL https://www.walmart.com/ip/JBL-CS76...2?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101083118
I think they are the same or very similar as the 4ohm version of these,
https://www.parts-express.com/Timpano-Audio-TPT-M6-8-6-1-2-Midrange-Speaker-Pair-8-Ohm-294-3312
This is the JBL https://www.walmart.com/ip/JBL-CS76...2?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101083118
I'm confused that you are talking about midrange drivers and 2.5 way, why no woofer? What am I missing.
I'm confused too!
Wickette describes the oem driver as a "midbass" unit while his link shows a "midrange" unit, a driver which is not designed to handle bass frequencies.
Wickette describes the oem driver as a "midbass" unit while his link shows a "midrange" unit, a driver which is not designed to handle bass frequencies.
hey you could always remove the doors from a car and use them as the boxes... hang'em on the wall it'll be a unique look 🤣 👍
Start a new trend workshop speakers for petrol heads!
Start a new trend workshop speakers for petrol heads!
Are you nit picking because I used the wrong word? or are you actually confused and can't figure it out? I used the wrong word, right or wrong they get used interchangeably when they're a car term. A thousand apologies. 🙁
How is it not a woofer? Am I using another the incorrect term "Midrange Woofer"
Every post here describes 2,5 way setups using one tweeter and 2 midrange woofers in either TMM or MTM setup. So what part am I getting wrong?
Are a pair of these a better choice
https://www.parts-express.com/Pyramid-W64-6-1-2-Pro-Plus-Midbass-Woofer-290-025
"Ideal for use as a woofer in 2-way systems or midrange in 3-way systems"
They peter out at around 3k, but can go 10hz lower than the speakers I have
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Not a bad idea, Id just paint a door on the wall and install the speaker into the wall. Cheaper.
I think it may be you who is confused.
The terms "midbass" and "midrange woofer" are definitely not interchangeable with the term "midrange" in any arena, car or home.
100% Agree. I've been confused since my first post.
So why would these cheaper "midbass" car woofers be a better choice than the "midrange" woofers I bought? Lower Fs?
I researched them initially. The ported and sealed enclosure size is 0.07cubic feet (that's the size of the driver 6.5x6.5x2.75)...confusing.
but didn't buy because icheap brand, cone is 6" not 6,5", smaller voice coil, poly instead of cloth/paper cone, reviews reported 90db vs 94db, xmax is 1.8 or 2mm (depending in the source). Vas is 0.02 cubic feet.
If they're more appropriate, Ill switch them no problem. They're cheaper. Which woofers would I be replacing with those? JBL's, Timpanos or both? (JBLs are brighter, range on just the woofers is 50hz-8000 or 9000khz. Timpanos 110-7500hz)
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The "midrange" drivers can go surprisingly low (130 Hz is quoted). According to their link, in a 9 litre sealed enclosure the sound level will be 3 dB down at 113 Hz. It takes a 28 litre (1 cu ft) ported enclosure to extend their response to 3 dB down at 54 Hz.
The "midbass" drivers can go lower, but require different enclosure dimensions to achieve this. According to their link, a 2 litre enclosure gives 3 dB down at 72 Hz and a 2 litre ported enclosure gives 3 dB down at 40 Hz.
(In each case the enclosure volumes were calculated using the same software - BassBox 6 Pro.)
These drivers have completely different parameters. Placed in identical enclosures they would behave quite differently.
Although both drivers have a nominal diameter of 6.5", they are not interchangeable. Their enclosures have to be designed to suit their individual characteristics.
P.S. If you have bought the "midrange" drivers, then there is no reason not to use them. (Resonant frequency is 108 Hz by the way.)
The obvious best choice is to put them into a 28 litre (1 cu ft) enclosure and ask AllenB to calculate the required port dimensions for you.
I'm sure he has nothing better to do! 😀
The obvious best choice is to put them into a 28 litre (1 cu ft) enclosure and ask AllenB to calculate the required port dimensions for you.
I'm sure he has nothing better to do! 😀
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Galu, you are a treasure 😉
Midrange drivers often don't move far enough to handle the bass. It can be that way as a feature because it improves the sensitivity.
Midwoofers are just woofers, people call them midwoofers when they are small and crossed high.
Going back to the original question, if you've chosen a pair of woofers then it's just a matter of your tweeter. It needs to be at least as sensitive as one of the woofers is, I don't know if your car tweeter does that. It also doesn't mount flush on your baffle which is another reason to look at tweeters.
However about your car tweeter.. the higher crossover that it used is likely connected with the capacitor. Because the rolloff is slow and gradual, it actually plays lower than the 7kHz you mention. I guess I'm saying it isn't a big deal, for now you could just try some capacitor and resistor values until you bring it into line, or try a second order filter.
Midrange drivers often don't move far enough to handle the bass. It can be that way as a feature because it improves the sensitivity.
Midwoofers are just woofers, people call them midwoofers when they are small and crossed high.
Going back to the original question, if you've chosen a pair of woofers then it's just a matter of your tweeter. It needs to be at least as sensitive as one of the woofers is, I don't know if your car tweeter does that. It also doesn't mount flush on your baffle which is another reason to look at tweeters.
However about your car tweeter.. the higher crossover that it used is likely connected with the capacitor. Because the rolloff is slow and gradual, it actually plays lower than the 7kHz you mention. I guess I'm saying it isn't a big deal, for now you could just try some capacitor and resistor values until you bring it into line, or try a second order filter.